Let's fix this DB 885

[Momo Taro]

Hello There.
I got this David Brown/CASE 855 from local auction (for $1250+125 auction premium+ 120 hiring trailer), unkown model year. I don't know if it's a good deal or not.
It's my first real tractor, in hope to do some yard work with it, moving gravel dirt and clear dense blackberry high grass with PTO attachment.
I know pretty much about car repair (my hobby) and with lot of car tools, and repaired riding lawn mower before. But no experience on real tractor. After initial assessment, I think the biggest enemies to deal with are: 1, old rust, 2, heavy part to be removed such as big wheel, final reduction, 3, antique parts. I am surprised that the tractor parts (no matter new or old models) are so expensive compared to ebay auto parts. As early ground work, I have found the operator manual, service manual, bulletins, part number manual.

I plan to fix the issues I found and gonna find, to bring it back to work, with mad max/fallout style cheap redneck methods as much as possible. Sounds good? I hope to borrow some priceless knolewledge from you guys on such antique machine, please give me some guidance and advise. Any idea would be great.

Issues, todo list (I will update):
1. Hydraulic
the loader moves but slowly. Had not figured out how to make lift hitch moving because I just managed to get it back home for 2 days.
I found the hydro fluid is milky color on dipstick. The shifter boots are teared pretty bad. It's said water can go into from there. The hydraulic fluid and filter needs to be changed for sure.
For shifter boots, I can simply put another layer of used rubber glove on the outside, to make it waterproof. A simple fix.
For such tear on the boots, how bad the hydro fliud could be? Could it be the culprit of slow moving? It looks like has been sitting outdoor without much use for pretty long time.

2. Brake
Both sides dry brake are stuck. The camshaft needs heavy hammer to move little by little between open and close positions. I think the camshaft is stuck by old rust. Proved my guess that not used for long time.

3. Throttle lever friction disc
The lever doesn't stay. The big holding nut is rusted on the lever shaft.

4. Lubricate every moving link, make grease fitting when needed. The pedals and levers feels stiff due to rusty links. The homemade style front end loader's links are rusty worse. I didn't find grease fitting on some critical links. Need to drill and put on fittings.

5. Instrument panel, wiring
Because of possible wrong wiring, the alternator area got on fire due to short when I putting on the new battery. The wire from alternator to starter solenoid shorted.
All warning lights are gone (plan to fix). Light related switchs are gone (leave it as is).

 

[db4600]

Hello There.
I got this David Brown/CASE 855 from local auction (for $1250+125 auction premium+ 120 hiring trailer), unkown model year. I don't know if it's a good deal or not.
It's my first real tractor, in hope to do some yard work with it, moving gravel dirt and clear dense blackberry high grass with PTO attachment.
I know pretty much about car repair (my hobby) and with lot of car tools, and repaired riding lawn mower before. But no experience on real tractor. After initial assessment, I think the biggest enemies to deal with are: 1, old rust, 2, heavy part to be removed such as big wheel, final reduction, 3, antique parts. I am surprised that the tractor parts (no matter new or old models) are so expensive compared to ebay auto parts. As early ground work, I have found the operator manual, service manual, bulletins, part number manual.

I plan to fix the issues I found and gonna find, to bring it back to work, with mad max/fallout style cheap redneck methods as much as possible. Sounds good? I hope to borrow some priceless knolewledge from you guys on such antique machine, please give me some guidance and advise. Any idea would be great.

Issues, todo list (I will update):
1. Hydraulic
the loader moves but slowly. Had not figured out how to make lift hitch moving because I just managed to get it back home for 2 days.
I found the hydro fluid is milky color on dipstick. The shifter boots are teared pretty bad. It's said water can go into from there. The hydraulic fluid and filter needs to be changed for sure.
For shifter boots, I can simply put another layer of used rubber glove on the outside, to make it waterproof. A simple fix.
For such tear on the boots, how bad the hydro fliud could be? Could it be the culprit of slow moving? It looks like has been sitting outdoor without much use for pretty long time.

2. Brake
Both sides dry brake are stuck. The camshaft needs heavy hammer to move little by little between open and close positions. I think the camshaft is stuck by old rust. Proved my guess that not used for long time.

3. Throttle lever friction disc
The lever doesn't stay. The big holding nut is rusted on the lever shaft.

4. Lubricate every moving link, make grease fitting when needed. The pedals and levers feels stiff due to rusty links. The homemade style front end loader's links are rusty worse. I didn't find grease fitting on some critical links. Need to drill and put on fittings.

5. Instrument panel, wiring
Because of possible wrong wiring, the alternator area got on fire due to short when I putting on the new battery. The wire from alternator to starter solenoid shorted.
All warning lights are gone (plan to fix). Light related switchs are gone (leave it as is).


View attachment 62519View attachment 62520View attachment 62521View attachment 62522View attachment 62523View attachment 62524View attachment 62525View attachment 62526View attachment 62527View attachment 62528

Hello There.
I got this David Brown/CASE 855 from local auction (for $1250+125 auction premium+ 120 hiring trailer), unkown model year. I don't know if it's a good deal or not.
It's my first real tractor, in hope to do some yard work with it, moving gravel dirt and clear dense blackberry high grass with PTO attachment.
I know pretty much about car repair (my hobby) and with lot of car tools, and repaired riding lawn mower before. But no experience on real tractor. After initial assessment, I think the biggest enemies to deal with are: 1, old rust, 2, heavy part to be removed such as big wheel, final reduction, 3, antique parts. I am surprised that the tractor parts (no matter new or old models) are so expensive compared to ebay auto parts. As early ground work, I have found the operator manual, service manual, bulletins, part number manual.

I plan to fix the issues I found and gonna find, to bring it back to work, with mad max/fallout style cheap redneck methods as much as possible. Sounds good? I hope to borrow some priceless knolewledge from you guys on such antique machine, please give me some guidance and advise. Any idea would be great.

Issues, todo list (I will update):
1. Hydraulic
the loader moves but slowly. Had not figured out how to make lift hitch moving because I just managed to get it back home for 2 days.
I found the hydro fluid is milky color on dipstick. The shifter boots are teared pretty bad. It's said water can go into from there. The hydraulic fluid and filter needs to be changed for sure.
For shifter boots, I can simply put another layer of used rubber glove on the outside, to make it waterproof. A simple fix.
For such tear on the boots, how bad the hydro fliud could be? Could it be the culprit of slow moving? It looks like has been sitting outdoor without much use for pretty long time.

2. Brake
Both sides dry brake are stuck. The camshaft needs heavy hammer to move little by little between open and close positions. I think the camshaft is stuck by old rust. Proved my guess that not used for long time.

3. Throttle lever friction disc
The lever doesn't stay. The big holding nut is rusted on the lever shaft.

4. Lubricate every moving link, make grease fitting when needed. The pedals and levers feels stiff due to rusty links. The homemade style front end loader's links are rusty worse. I didn't find grease fitting on some critical links. Need to drill and put on fittings.

5. Instrument panel, wiring
Because of possible wrong wiring, the alternator area got on fire due to short when I putting on the new battery. The wire from alternator to starter solenoid shorted.
All warning lights are gone (plan to fix). Light related switchs are gone (leave it as is).


View attachment 62519View attachment 62520View attachment 62521View attachment 62522View attachment 62523View attachment 62524View attachment 62525View attachment 62526View attachment 62527View attachment 62528

Welcome. You’ve got work ahead of you but don’t not be scared by it. It sounds like you have some background with mechanics. You’ll do fine. When done I believe you’ll be happy with the 885.
There are several good YouTube instructionals on the issues you listed. Read your manuals. That’s how I figured it out. There are some DB aficionados here so don’t be afraid to ask specific questions. Mr. RG Martin is very good with DB.

 

[db4600]

Welcome. You’ve got work ahead of you but don’t not be scared by it. It sounds like you have some background with mechanics. You’ll do fine. When done I believe you’ll be happy with the 885.
There are several good YouTube instructionals on the issues you listed. Read your manuals. That’s how I figured it out. There are some DB aficionados here so don’t be afraid to ask specific questions. Mr. RG Martin is very good with DB.

Forgot to ad. I just resealed my hydraulic pump and drained it empty in doing so. Upon refilling and moving snow I found the fluid to be milky. In 12 years of ownership I have always found milky fluid in the hy-tran. Filter change and drain only seems to stem the tide to later return. I can’t place the cause.

 

[Frank(Mi.)]

Hi Momo, on my 1210 there is a selector lever on the right rear side of the seat that determines if the loader gets hydraulics or the 3 point. My loader has always seemed slow as compared to my other tractors...

 

[Momo Taro]

Hi Momo, on my 1210 there is a selector lever on the right rear side of the seat that determines if the loader gets hydraulics or the 3 point. My loader has always seemed slow as compared to my other tractors...

Hi,

I just checked 1210 manual. The hydro control looks esentially same as 885.
I think you are referring the turning dial "D" in the picture (page 32 in 1210 Manual), correct? At what option the lift hitch works? Left/Depth; Middle/Height; or Right/TCU?

In original design (at least according to the OEM manual), it controls how the internal lift hitch hydro operate (toggle among height, depth, TCU). But I realized the tractor I am dealing with has been modified. The original panel besides the hand lever has been changed, with 2 fittings that go to the front end loader. (red circled). You can see the difference. Does your 1210 come with similar setting?

1210 Manual:

David Brown 1210 1210 4WD 1212 Instruction - Google Drive

drive.google.com

A gold mine:

David Brown info II

David Brown 1190 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9121 October 1980 David Brown 1190 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9125 Oct 1981 (Revised May 1983) David Brown 1210 1210 4WD & 1212 Tractors Instruction Book — 9-5016 August, 1974 David Brown 1290 - 1390 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9224 David Brown 1294

sites.google.com

 

[used red MN]

Hi,

I just checked 1210 manual. The hydro control looks esentially same as 885.
I think you are referring the turning dial "D" in the picture (page 32 in 1210 Manual), correct? At what option the lift hitch works? Left/Depth; Middle/Height; or Right/TCU?

View attachment 62687View attachment 62688
In original design (at least according to the OEM manual), it controls how the internal lift hitch hydro operate (toggle among height, depth, TCU). But I realized the tractor I am dealing with has been modified. The original panel besides the hand lever has been changed, with 2 fittings that go to the front end loader. (red circled). You can see the difference. Does your 1210 come with similar setting?
View attachment 62689View attachment 62690




1210 Manual:

David Brown 1210 1210 4WD 1212 Instruction - Google Drive

drive.google.com

A gold mine:

David Brown info II

David Brown 1190 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9121 October 1980 David Brown 1190 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9125 Oct 1981 (Revised May 1983) David Brown 1210 1210 4WD & 1212 Tractors Instruction Book — 9-5016 August, 1974 David Brown 1290 - 1390 Tractor Operators Manual — 9-9224 David Brown 1294

sites.google.com

Hello Momo Taro, welcome to YT! I was going to send you a link to those manuals but obviously you found them. Is your username a product of “anime”? I just was curious and thought it looked like it might have a meaning so I looked it up. Anime is not in my wheelhouse, at one time I had a coworker that was into it. Are you sure you didn’t connect the battery terminals in reverse. The negative should “ground” the chassis. Someone may have placed a red cable on negative side which may have fooled you. The diodes in an alternator cause a dead short to a connection to reversed polarity. Everything else will work with the battery connected in reverse, except the ammeter, if equipped will register backwards and the ignition will not work optimally.

 

[Momo Taro]

Hello Momo Taro, welcome to YT! I was going to send you a link to those manuals but obviously you found them. Is your username a product of “anime”? I just was curious and thought it looked like it might have a meaning so I looked it up. Anime is not in my wheelhouse, at one time I had a coworker that was into it. Are you sure you didn’t connect the battery terminals in reverse. The negative should “ground” the chassis. Someone may have placed a red cable on negative side which may have fooled you. The diodes in an alternator cause a dead short to a connection to reversed polarity. Everything else will work with the battery connected in reverse, except the ammeter, if equipped will register backwards and the ignition will not work optimally.

Hi,

It means "Peach Boy" in Japanese.
For the short fire, I connected +/- correctly. The only issue I overlooked is when I try to hook up, the key was still in the cylinder hole, and was in the position that 1 click anticlockwise from the initial position that can insert/pull out. Once I hooked up, pew... Huge smoke and fire from alternator area. (the new battery was just charged overnight, fully charged) Found the wire from the alternator to starter solenoid shorted. The plastic wire case burnt. Scary eh? If I get the key cylinder back to the initial position and pulled out the key, it will be okay to connect the battery.

The manual didn't say the key cylinder can be turned anticlockwise from initial position. How about your DBs? I guess there might be wrong wiring , and maybe aftermarket key cylinder. I noticed the wiring behind the instrument cluster was pulled out, and all lights were removed.

 

[used red MN]

Hi,

It means "Peach Boy" in Japanese.
For the short fire, I connected +/- correctly. The only issue I overlooked is when I try to hook up, the key was still in the cylinder hole, and was in the position that 1 click anticlockwise from the initial position that can insert/pull out. Once I hooked up, pew... Huge smoke and fire from alternator area. (the new battery was just charged overnight, fully charged) Found the wire from the alternator to starter solenoid shorted. The plastic wire case burnt. Scary eh? If I get the key cylinder back to the initial position and pulled out the key, it will be okay to connect the battery.

The manual didn't say the key cylinder can be turned anticlockwise from initial position. How about your DBs? I guess there might be wrong wiring , and maybe aftermarket key cylinder. I noticed the wiring behind the instrument cluster was pulled out, and all lights were removed.

I got the peach boy deal, I looked it up. So your from Florida or Georgia.. or your tractor’s a peach? Seems odd that it shorted, your certain it was correct? Any other wires come off the alternator? Was it the single red wire that see running by itself that burned? If so that is an added wire, so who knows. Nothing having to do with a key position should short out. Did you power wash it? That may have pushed some wiring into a different position and caused it to short.

 

[Momo Taro]

I got the peach boy deal, I looked it up. So your from Florida or Georgia.. or your tractor’s a peach? Seems odd that it shorted, your certain it was correct? Any other wires come off the alternator? Was it the single red wire that see running by itself that burned? If so that is an added wire, so who knows. Nothing having to do with a key position should short out. Did you power wash it? That may have pushed some wiring into a different position and caused it to short.

I am in WA, I love monkey and I love peach.
It's 100% sure the +/- was not the culprit. Removed the original dead battery with neg in the left, pos in the right. And put a fully charged battery in the same way. Otherwise the tractor would not start later. There is a wire from a plastic connector on the back of alternator (2 wires from such connector, the other looks okay, not burnt). Then the burnt wire goes into a screw in connector with 4 wires in total. Another wire from this screw in connector goes to the starter solenoid also burnt, so that's the shorted circuit. Another guess, maybe the starter solenoid stuck in engaged position when I try to start with the weak/dead battery and caused the short. But anyway, I just remember not to connect battery with key in, and never turn the key anticlockwise, then I am good.

 

[used red MN]

A stuck starter solenoid would not very likely cause that, all the amps in the starter circuit go through the battery cables. I think by the filter setup it must be a diesel. The counterclockwise position could have been a starting aid position that would run either glow plugs or an intake manifold heating device. It would have sprung bake to off if it was an original switch. Maybe something in that circuit would have shorted. Should have burned wires all the way up to the dash in that case. Look at your owners manual it will explain this. Never answered about washing?

 

[Momo Taro]

A stuck starter solenoid would not very likely cause that, all the amps in the starter circuit go through the battery cables. I think by the filter setup it must be a diesel. The counterclockwise position could have been a starting aid position that would run either glow plugs or an intake manifold heating device. It would have sprung bake to off if it was an original switch. Maybe something in that circuit would have shorted. Should have burned wires all the way up to the dash in that case. Look at your owners manual it will explain this. Never answered about washing?

Forgot to mention, it happened in the auction yard. The battery dead in the ealier day, so I put a new battery in the next day. No washing, but there was rain. Not looks like the rain water.

Unfortunately the user manual doesn't cover any diy modification. It never mentioned the key cylinder can be turned anticlockwise. And based on how the tractor looks like, the previous owner(s) is full of redneck spirit. Homemade front end loader, a chain replaced a missing brake link bar, messed up wiring... And more to be found

 

[used red MN]

I was just throwing that start aid thing out there as a general possibility, I really don’t know much about DBs. And I could tell it had some “redneck spirit” going on.

 

[Momo Taro]

UPDATE 03/15/24

1. Ram cylinder leak, air trap
Removed the connector plate in front of the lift ram cylinder. Found there is little oil flew out from the oil port, which means there is no oil in the cylinder, instead, air trap. I also noticed there is oil stain beneath the plate, and there is unusual thick oil sludge deposited on the chain underneath (another redneck used it to replace the missing brake link bar). The o-ring between connector plate and cylinder oil port is bad (#30), so changed it. It well explained the oil stain and non functional lift hitch.

2. Bleed screw
According to the manual, next I should bleed the air out from control valve and ram cylinder. The problem is the control valve bleed screws. I have no handy tool to unscrew em. They are oversized flat screw, with slot ~3/4 inch (20mm) long, and seems need quite a bit torque to unscrew. I saw there is punching mark on the slots. I guess another redneck faced same pblm, and wrestled with chisel and hammer for quite a while with lot of words. But not sure if that guy made it or not eventually. British engineers... what can I complain. Compared to those stupid ugly stuff they built, this screw is nothing.

Regular screw driver or flathead bit doesn't work for sure. Too short to give enough torque on the full length of slot, will only damage the slot. I have a flathead air tool chisel with matching shape, but the rod is smoothy round. I didn't find any real screw driver on the market with that long blade. HF have a "scraper set" that looks might work. (1/2 in, 3/4 in, 1 in, 1-1/2 in). I will take a look at HF tomorrow.

Scraper Set, 4 Piece

Amazing deals on this 4 Pc Scraper Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Anyone with any success experience with these screws? Please share

 

[Joe Stewart]

Craftsman impact driver

I use this impact driver to loosen those screws on my David Browns. But I use a larger slotted bit - larger than the one that is in the photo. Not sure where I bought that larger bit, but I may have bought it from Sears back in the days when they were still in business. Seek out an impact driver with large slotted bits and you should be able to loosen those screws on your control valve - no problem.

 

[Momo Taro]

Craftsman impact driver

I use this impact driver to loosen those screws on my David Browns. But I use a larger slotted bit - larger than the one that is in the photo. Not sure where I bought that larger bit, but I may have bought it from Sears back in the days when they were still in business. Seek out an impact driver with large slotted bits and you should be able to loosen those screws on your control valve - no problem.

I have similar HF version of this impact screwdriver kit. And tried with the standard flathead bit in the kit and light weight hammer. The pblm is the blade is not long enough.

 

[Joe Stewart]

Drag link socket

Many apologies. Now I remember. I used a drag link socket similar to the one in the link provided. I put it on my impact driver - not the intended use for it but it worked great for getting those David Brown screws loose.

 

[Momo Taro]

Drag link socket

Many apologies. Now I remember. I used a drag link socket similar to the one in the link provided. I put it on my impact driver - not the intended use for it but it worked great for getting those David Brown screws loose.

Thanks. Tomorrow I will try HF scrapper kit first, then this one. Simply because cheaper.

 

[WIFarmKid]

First things first, keep track of the model number when ordering parts. David Brown had the 880, 990, 1210, and 1410 (I think just those?). Before Case bought them I believe the 880 turned into the 885 (I'm not well versed in the older models), but it is NOT the same as a Case IH 885 (that came after the merger with IH, it was a rebadged IH tractor).

Case changed the styling to the '90 series, and they were the 1190, 1290, 1390, and 1490 (then they added the 1690). And changed again to the '94 series, 1194, 1294, 1394, 1494, and 1594.

So I believe some of the internal parts you might need are at least somewhat interchangeable between the 880, 885 (Case or DB, NOT Case IH), 1190, and 1194. Pretty much everything external changed through those models though.

 

[WIFarmKid]

My experience is with the 90 series tractors, not the older models or even the 1190, so take some of this with a grain of salt.

The engine should have a manifold heater called "thermostart". Basically an electric heating element and thermal valve, inside the intake manifold. When the element gets hot, the valve opens and douses it with fuel. That should catch on fire, and warm the intake. The intake manifold will likely be covered in some soot on the inside because of this. The key switch mentioned in your manual is the one our tractors have, turning clockwise it is off-on-manifold heat-start. The heat position is right before start, you have to hold the key turned. Some other tractors used the left of off position for manifold heat or glow plugs, but it still should be spring loaded to the off position. Maybe in WA where you are it's warm, and you never even need cold starting aids, but... NEVER USE ETHER AND MANIFOLD HEAT AT THE SAME TIME-(bang, boom, other cool details, etc.) Here on the frozen tundra I'm well versed in cold.

The selector lever Frank(Mi) mentioned is the hydraulic pump selector, I think. The 1390s and 1490s have two hydraulic pumps, one in the transmission and one (besides the power steering pump) on the front of the engine. I think the 1210 is similar. One runs the hydraulic remotes, and the other runs the lifts. Or you can move the selector and have doubled hydraulic flow to the remotes (both pumps), and nothing to the lifts. Handy for loader work when you don't use the lifts. (There is a plastic knob by the left end of the lift rocker arm, that can mechanically lock the lifts in the fully raised position. That way it can't leak down hydraulically). I believe the 1190 (and the 885?) only has one hydraulic pump, so you wouldn't have that feature on yours. I know the hydraulics on ours are not fast even with two pumps, so slow might be the only speed you've got.

If the PTO is the same as a 1290, the transmission hydraulic pump is driven through the PTO drive shaft. That means when the PTO clutch is disengaged the hydraulics will not function (the lever left of the PTO is not the clutch, it's a shifter for the PTO. Engaged or disengaged). If you have a "live" PTO (PTO driven through traction clutch) when you step on the clutch pedal you won't be able to lift the loader, the hydraulic pump won't be running. I think your tractor has a "semi-independent" PTO, it has it's own clutch but it's controlled by the same clutch pedal. Half way down disengages the wheels, all the way down disengages the PTO/hydraulic pump.

 

[Momo Taro]

My experience is with the 90 series tractors, not the older models or even the 1190, so take some of this with a grain of salt.

The engine should have a manifold heater called "thermostart". Basically an electric heating element and thermal valve, inside the intake manifold. When the element gets hot, the valve opens and douses it with fuel. That should catch on fire, and warm the intake. The intake manifold will likely be covered in some soot on the inside because of this. The key switch mentioned in your manual is the one our tractors have, turning clockwise it is off-on-manifold heat-start. The heat position is right before start, you have to hold the key turned. Some other tractors used the left of off position for manifold heat or glow plugs, but it still should be spring loaded to the off position. Maybe in WA where you are it's warm, and you never even need cold starting aids, but... NEVER USE ETHER AND MANIFOLD HEAT AT THE SAME TIME-(bang, boom, other cool details, etc.) Here on the frozen tundra I'm well versed in cold.

The selector lever Frank(Mi) mentioned is the hydraulic pump selector, I think. The 1390s and 1490s have two hydraulic pumps, one in the transmission and one (besides the power steering pump) on the front of the engine. I think the 1210 is similar. One runs the hydraulic remotes, and the other runs the lifts. Or you can move the selector and have doubled hydraulic flow to the remotes (both pumps), and nothing to the lifts. Handy for loader work when you don't use the lifts. (There is a plastic knob by the left end of the lift rocker arm, that can mechanically lock the lifts in the fully raised position. That way it can't leak down hydraulically). I believe the 1190 (and the 885?) only has one hydraulic pump, so you wouldn't have that feature on yours. I know the hydraulics on ours are not fast even with two pumps, so slow might be the only speed you've got.

If the PTO is the same as a 1290, the transmission hydraulic pump is driven through the PTO drive shaft. That means when the PTO clutch is disengaged the hydraulics will not function (the lever left of the PTO is not the clutch, it's a shifter for the PTO. Engaged or disengaged). If you have a "live" PTO (PTO driven through traction clutch) when you step on the clutch pedal you won't be able to lift the loader, the hydraulic pump won't be running. I think your tractor has a "semi-independent" PTO, it has it's own clutch but it's controlled by the same clutch pedal. Half way down disengages the wheels, all the way down disengages the PTO/hydraulic pump.

Per manual, the 'thermostart' is in the fuel pump, a butterfly valve, and it's optional feature. On this tractor, the buttlerfly knob is gone (or never existed). Since it fires up every time eventually as long as the battery is strong enough, I have not digged into the thermostart yet before solved more critical issues (lift hitch, sinking loader, milky oil, frozen brakes, rusty links).

The hydraulic system on this tractor has been modified in pretty redneck way. They cut off the top of "connector plate" (part#K917127), and welded 2 fittings that lead to loader control valves. Homemade quality welding. According to the diagram, in this way the pump feeds pressure to the loader directly.

Manual says the pump is driven by PTO shaft. So you should be right, in theory the pump should stop when PTO shaft stops. I didn't notice that yet. Too many things to worry about (vague shift, stiff clutch, throttle don't stay, loader keeps sinking) As a newbie, every time sitting on the tractor is as scary as rodeo for me.