2630 John Deere water coolant pump rebuild

Whoa! Page 2 here. Thanks!

Back from the dealer to return the shortie tube.

Things are looking up! No problem with the pump housing gasket since they had the right one in stock and it even was a hamburger's price cheaper than other one I had from them. They even had the seal and driver in stock--John Deere and their inventory has them as separate parts, but the kit--both together with a kit part number-- they don't have that and that fooled me last time there. Ha.

I now have everything I need to reassemble the pump, the top tube off eBay has been shipped and from the length measurement they gave me, looks to be the correct length.
 
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Whoa! Page 2 here. Thanks!

Back from the dealer to return the shortie tube.

Things are looking up! No problem with the pump housing gasket since they had the right one in stock and it even was a hamburger's price cheaper than other one I had from them. They even had the seal and driver in stock--John Deere and their inventory has them as separate parts, but the kit--both together with a kit part number-- they don't have that and that fooled me last time there. Ha.

I now have everything I need to reassemble the pump, the top tube off eBay has been shipped and from the length measurement they gave me, looks to be the correct length.
How about posting the part numbers for the individual seal and driver parts you got and the kit number they are in, it might save someone hunting time, in the future.
 
Here is my parts list, all from John Deere. Thanks for helping me compile it.

Included is the short piece of coolant hose which goes into a metal tube headed toward the oil cooler. I found mine to be hard like a rock so it should be replaced, it is expensive. The long metal tube attaching to that was corroded underneath the hose ends, but it was salvageable after cleaning. Also in that circuit is the nipple pressed into the water pump housing--mine had corrosion where the hose inserted over it, but deemed viable after removal of the rust and scale with sandpaper. I sprayed some primer on it.

I don't know if that press-in nipple is available as a separate part, but I think it would be the devil to remove it. That's one of those things which should be evaluated before DIY rebuilding, which might tilt one toward a rebuilt, or new, pump.

I also included the gasket for the lower thermostat housing where that bolts onto the block--note that this gasket has a different part number than the gasket of similar shape at the thermostat itself. I reused the impeller.

Part numbers for 2630 John Deere early water/coolant pump rebuild:

Gasket, back plate-to-block: T20243
Gasket, pump housing-to-back plate: R55405
Bearing assembly, KOYO: JD9257
Seal, spring-loaded half: AR97882
Seal pressing tool, required for above: R518805
Seal, ceramic washer: R32174
Seal, rubber retainer for ceramic washer above: R40243
Tube/bypass insert, early engine serial, 2.4" long: R54809
O-rings (two needed) for tube bores in pump and thermostat housing: R56461
Hose, small, short, angled, water pump nipple-to-tube toward oil cooler: R48766 (sub. for U42685).

Thermostat: AR48675
Gasket, between upper and lower thermostat housing: T20215


*If one has the later engine serial, then two short tube/bypass were used instead of the one long tube for the early engine. The two "shortie" tubes need a section of hose between them fastened with hose clamps. If not rebuilding the pump, buying an aftermarket or rebuilt pump instead, the tube already included in the pump could be the short tube, so one additional short tube is needed, the one inserting into the lower thermostat housing. However, if using the pump for the early engine serial, I would guess that a short tube insert would need to be removed for the long tube's use, instead. Here are the parts needed for that, as follows:

Tube/bypass insert, two needed, later engine, 1.34" long, stepped diameters of 1.110"/1.125" : R59050
Hose between above inserts: R59052
Pipe clamps, two needed: ___________

The fiber-rubber gaskets are branded "Interface Performance Materials N-8092, made in USA". They are 1.0 mm thick. The spring-loaded seal is indicated on the package as also being a domestic part and the ink jetted numbers on the seal are "261513" and "11:25" . The packaging for the plastic seal tool indicates a domestic part. The packaging for the thermostat indicates it is a domestic part, as well. The bearing assembly is KOYO, made in Japan.
 
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