1935 B rear tires

[kj-32]

I'm a new first-time owner. The tractor is in good shape and probably has the original 10x38 tires, but one tire and rim need replaced. I found a pair of old style tread 9x38 tires that look to be in good shape, but I've been told that the old tires have a bumpy ride compared to newer tires. Would others agree with this? I'd like to keep old tires on it for it to be more original, but don't want it to be a bumpy ride either. Thanks.

 

[teddy52food]

Are you sure they are 38? Mine were 36 inch on the 1935 B I had.

 

[kj-32]

Yes on 38. They're cutdowns. I have noticed that 36 seems to be more common, but maybe they wanted a bigger tire when they modified the wheels.

 

[Pete in MD]

kj-32,

The rim you want to replace may be repairable.

Can you post a photo(s) of your rim that show the good and bad sections?

 

[kj-32]

It most likely isn't repairable. It's already been repaired once. I actually already have a new rim anyway, so I'm more so just wondering about the tires.

 

[Pete in MD]

kj-32,

Your 10-38 and 9-38 tires should have 45 degree lugs. I don't think they will have a ''bumpy ride''
compared to newer tires.

Use the 9-38 tires as long as they're not dry rotted. Use new tubes.

 

[DR. EVIL]

DAD bought a Deere 1940 B to pull our Deere model R spreader thru our Hog House, the center aisle was only
around 68 to 70 inches wide, had to reverse the wheels, were about 6 or 7 inches wide and 38 inch diameter on
factory splined axles, stock factory wheels & tires on it when we bought it December about 1970. Steel disk
wheels were factory 9 - bolt just like our M&W Direct axle duals. We had several 10 & 11x38 tires sitting
around. The '40 B was only 4-speed, about 4-1/2 mph, maybe 5 down a REALLY steep hill. The tires on it when we
bought it were Good Year 9-38 45 degree 4-ply, lugs were about 1/2-5/8 high and about that wide, one tire
had a hole thru the casing about 1-1/2 diameter, inner tube was sticking out around an inch.
It was actually a pretty worthless tractor, no hills steep enough and long enough to coast it down to
start, had to crank that stupid flywheel for ever it seemed. Whatever that B could do my '54 FARMALL SUPER H
could do quicker, faster, easier, and I could be off doing something else. Dad paid $90 for it December in
1969 or '70. I bought the 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 adapter for the pto, I don't EVER remember hooking anything to the
pto. We had a gallon of Deere green and a quart of Deere yellow plus decals so the last week before I left for
college I painted it. I think it brought $120 at Dad's auction in December 1972, barely covered the cost of
the paint. I don't think it actually had a lot of hours on it, neighbor I worked for part time had an early
'40's vintage A that had WAY more slop in all the levers than this B did.
Dad kept the '51 FARMALL M he bought new and was delivered Dec. 23rd 1951, kept the '54 Super H he traded a
nice looking but worn '39 FARMALL H. I have both the SH and M in my shop. Wish I had the '54 Super M-TA Dad
bought about 1960,'61 and traded in on a 450 Farmall with fast-hitch in about 1965 or'66. The '51 M and SM-TA
both had Charlynn power steering, the Super H doesn't, I'm not cutting a big ugly hole in the hood for the
reservoir! I managed to put 250 hours on it every year without PS, I put a distributor drive housing off a
300/350 FARMAAL summer of 1968 and installed a tach/hourmeter about May or June '68.