1940 Ford 9N 4H Project

[lloydford9n]

This message is a reply to an archived post by Lloydford9n on February 24, 2020 at 10:18:07.
The original subject was "1940 Ford 9N 4H Project".

Hi everyone,

Sorry this has taken a while to update but life has gone screwy as you all know. We are making progress little by little.

The tractor got a ride to our house and is kow in our garage where we've been working away at it. Began with stripping the engine down (on the tractor so no lower unit work done). We lapped valves, cleaned ports and piston chambers etc and added new retainers. New alternator (one wire, 12v) as part of a 12v conversion, including new coil, plug wires, ballast resistor. Also, new ratchet drive on starter, new amp meter. The old radiator hold fluid so flushed system and new coolant, oil filter, cleaned the air filter. Carb kit. Cleaned tank, new lines there.

We were using the JMOR wiring page to wire up the new electrical but we must be doing something wrong because the first time a tried turning it over I got a spark at the starter and that was it.

I am totally not an electrically minded person so don't get what's happening and why everything gets wired the way it does. I sure we had it all wired correctly with the exceptions that it's possible we had the pedal switch flipped on the mount, but I don't know if that would have mattered, and I'm not sure which terminals on the key ignition go to which locations.

Also, I was using a smaller battery from a honda accord to run the test as I haven't gotten the appropriate battery yet.

Anyway, any help there would be appreciated. Did I damage my starter? Anything else potentially?

Will post some of the pictures from the last bit tomorrow.

Good night

 

[2ruNgineer]

Based on my experiences with 6V system, you're going to need all the CCAs you can get. Even hooking up and starting with 12V on my 6V starter, you need a good battery that can be fully charged. I think those Hondas run on plastic pistons and PVC pipe and can probably start on a 9V duracell.

 

[lloydford9n]

Haha, yes but they seem to go forever for plastic parts! We've done all the 12v swap on the tractor. I will look for a proper sized battery but still unsure of the wiring around the key ignition terminals. Also, not really sure the proper procedure for starting with the key start and foot switch!

 

[HFJ]

[i:c469bcf472]"Also, not really sure the proper procedure for starting with the key start and foot switch!"[/i:c469bcf472]

for me, the biggest thing to learn was to not overchoke it. here's what i do:

fuel on at sediment bowl. throttle at about one third. turn ignition switch on. push and hold starter button. let it turn over a couple of times, and then [b:c469bcf472]briefly[/b:c469bcf472] pull out the choke. no more than a second or two, and then release. anything longer and you'll likely flood it. hope this helps

 

[Jim L WA]

" Also, not really sure the proper procedure for starting with the key start and foot switch!" I'm a little confused here. If you are using JMOR's wiring diagram the key switch is just an off/on switch for the ignition. The push button in top of the transmission is the switch for the starter through the solenoid. You turn the ignition switch on and push the start button. Did you get spark at the starter when you touched the cable from the solenoid to the the post on the starter or when you tried to turn the engine over?

 

[lloydford9n]

On this tractor there is a 3 terminal key ignition switch. I've seen the flip switch done in a YouTube video though. But if wired correctly should just be able to turn to start on the switch I have. While holding in start then use the foot switch, no?

 

[lloydford9n]

We haven't hooked up the gas tank yet. Was
just trying to get spark going first.
There could be a couple things not working
that we need to test I guess. It has an
old 3 terminal keyed ignition switch and I
understand the JMOR wiring uses a flip
switch. It also had a solenoid that I
removed but now I get why the solenoid was
there. Keyed ignition would have supplied
power to starter continuously without it.
Like I said, not very bright with
electrical!

 

[showcrop]

It sounds like your connection at the starter is poor so it arced instead of carrying the current. The arc will deposit carbon into the connection insulating it. It sounds like all you need to do is clean the connection. Absolutely clean connections sometimes need cleaning. It happened to me two years ago.

 

[lloydford9n]

Thanks. I'm going to get a properly rated
battery and will clean up the connections
when I install.

 

[Den N Ms]

lloyd,Your 9N should not have a solenoid switch,just a manual operated starter switch mounted behind the steering column.The top post on the switch goes to the positive post of the battery on your 12 volt conversion,and the bottom post of the switch goes to the starter post,The starter should run when in neutral and the thumb button is pushed,key switch has nothing to do with the starter running at all.The Key switch is for the ignition only to power up the coil,.You just need to use two post of it for off and on power. Follow Jmor's wiring diagram for the setup that you have on your tractor ,or what it should have.