1956 640 lift mechanical problem

[Maineman]

I bought a 1956 640 off a guy on the other side of the mountain. ( ok, so it's really a hill!) I split the tractor. Replace the hydro tubes though the trans. Replaced the freeze plugs. Cleaned the water jacket in the block. Replaced the usual wear parts under the seat. Cleaned the hydro system and the rear end. Replaced the pto assembly. Rebuilt the hydro pump. Got everything going good. When I realized the lift was straining the lift arms. To the point of bending them when in the raised position! A little out of adjustment I assumed.
Unfortunately, the lift will not allow the plow to go into the ground! I bought and used Zane's instructions and gage block. And put in a new cam follower. However, it said that one of the clearances should be between 1/16" and 1/8" ? Mine measured like 5/8"? The manual says "compare old part to new known good part to see if its bent" I had no new part. But it did not look bent. I shimmed the center lift rod with a washer.

My main concern at that time was the lack of response in the hydro system. Now, the hydro system works good. But I am now going to.start work on the mechanical system again. Aside from buying all new components. What should I be looking for?

Thanks!

Joe

 

[JMOR]

The "load" that you say is bending the lift arms is whatever load you are trying to lift. Can't see bending trying to lift nothing! Most if not always the lift capability of the tractor is insufficient to bend lift arms...it would typically just not lift the 'too heavy' load.

 

[Maineman]

The lift arms will bend when the restrictor chains are tight. With Just a tool bar or other implement to keep the lift arms apart. It is not any weight on the lift doing this. Just that the hydraulics are miss adjusted. I think this is beyond the adjustment that can be obtained by adjusting the quadrant.

Thanks!

Joe

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:44:57 08/02/13)
The lift arms will bend when the restrictor chains are tight. With Just a tool bar or other implement to keep the lift arms apart. It is not any weight on the lift doing this. Just that the hydraulics are miss adjusted. I think this is beyond the adjustment that can be obtained by adjusting the quadrant.

Thanks!

Joe

ounds like you are speaking of the lift links (near bottom of tractor and connected to lift arms by lift rods), not lift arms(close to rear of seat). If this is the case, you may have wrong lift links or lift rods or have them in wrong holes or upside down, or too short of chains. All hundred series tractors didn't have the same components in all these areas. As to the lift arms themselves moving too far.........don't see that as a possibility. No adjustment for that range of travel exists.

 

[souNdguy]

ditto what jmor said on the lower lift components.


post a pic of what ya go...

 

[Maineman]

I'm sorry, my terminology is wrong. I am talking about the links that are closest to the ground. Not the cast links at the top of the system.

A little more background, I have a 1949 Harry Ferguson TE-20 that I use to bottom plow. When I used the same plow on the Ford I noticed it dug in a lot deeper. When I bought the Ford, I believe it was set up to be a rear mount Sickle bar mower. The tractor has a wide stance tread set up. And cast mounts under the rear axel. It also came with the manual for a mower.
When the ball in the lowest arm socket fell out, I bought new components. I thought the intermediate fixed and adjustable links were too long at 23". So, I got a set at 22". Which I believe is the same as my Ferguson. Every thing was good after that. But the hydraulics were very slow. When I removed the top plate and renewed the "o" rings and such, I adjusted the linkage under the cover to try and meet spec. It was way off! No chance of getting even close! So, I put it back together to see if the hydraulics worked. And, said if that's good, I'll work on the mechanics later.
Well, now is later! I'd love to hear that I've got my links mixed up! That would be better than removing the cover to see what parts I may need under there!

Some pictures;

The Ford;

The Ferguson;

The original Ford components;

Thanks!

Joe

 

[JMOR]

These 641D dimensions are I believe correct....been verified on more than one. Compare to yours.
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=507574

 

[DollarBill]

When I realized the lift was straining the lift arms. To the point of bending them when in the raised position! A little out of adjustment I assumed.

Add another link to the sway chains.

 

[NoNewParts]

like DB said
when you shortened the 'intermediate' links,
you would have to add some length to the check chains
to prevent binding.
easy way is to pull the pins on the upper lift arms, cycle the lift all the way up,
then assemble the rest of the links/chains with it up.
if, when down, with your components, the arms get into the tires,
sway bars will stop them with an implement on,
and a short bungee between the check chains will stop them when no implement is on.

 

[Michaels Dad]

The easiest way to solve the chain problem (IMHO) is to have enough links to just keep the arms off the tires no matter what position the arms are in.

 

[JMOR]

yes, his looks like 6 , not 7

 

[Maineman]

so, after reading everyone's comments, I decided to go back to the original links that came with the tractor. They are 25" center to center long. The ones I had in there were 21 1/2" long.
When the tractors running, the lowest the attachment point goes 10" to 11" above ground level. When the tractor is off they sink to 2" to 3" above ground. But, I guess that's not a problem.

Thank You for the help!

Joe