4.3 chevy motor in a forklift

RBnSC

Well-known Member
I'm working on a hyster forklift it has a 4.3. It was run without oil and spun a rod bearing. Boss got a crank kit and will get a rod to go in it. My question is I have never been in one before and it has a counter balance shaft in the top of the block. Did they all come like that? The crank he got was for a 2006 model truck and has all the same numbers on the crank as the one from the forklift. Can anyone tell me anything about whether this will work?
Ron
 

''91 was last year of non-balance shaft in the 4.3

92-up most had one, but not every single one, it depended on the application.''

''For the 1992 model year, the 4.3L had its block design modified to allow a balance shaft to be installed. [5] Even though the 4.3L is an even fire V6, the 90 degree block layout is not ideal for smoothness. The balance shaft on the 4.3L is installed above the top timing gear, and runs through the top of the lifter valley. It is gear driven off the timing chain, and therefore a new timing chain cover was designed for these balanced 4.3L V6s.''

Source: Wikipedia

HTH!
 
If the casting numbers match, you're good. As cheap and plentiful as 4.3s are, I'd have just got a running S10 engine instead of having all the down time.
 
Not sure if you are familiar with automotive press fit wrist pins so I will tell you this. Since you say you have never been in one just FYI, you will need to find a machine shop with the proper equipment like a rod heater to swap the rod onto your piston.
 
This engine is propane has very little hours on it. the two people that operated it never checked the oil. i don't think the oil has ever been changed it still had the hyster oil filter. thanks
Ron
 
I've never been in a 4.3. I have built many engines and worked in a couple of machine shops. thank you for your comment.
Ron
 
In many ways it's a sawed off 5.7. Most do have the even fire crank. The 4.3 was a very common motor for use in boats and outher industrial applications. I had a 4.3 in a 91 half ton, it went 450,000 miles. The motor still ran ok but is broke the cltch release arm.
 
Just putting a new/reconditioned crank in when that happens is risky!

Good chance there is metal glitter pumped through all the galleys, hiding, waiting...

At the least, disassemble and thoroughly clean, and clean again, or replace the oil pick up screen and oil pump. Clean and blow out every oil passage you can access. The best way is to completely disassemble, down to the bare block and have it cleaned.

Did any of the main bearings spin? If so, the block will need to be align bored, now it is beyond the monetary value of the engine.

Some of those engines used torque to yield bolts, which can only be used once. Not sure about that engine.
 
If it's on LP Gas, you might want to upgrade the vales, you need harden vales/seat to run LP for very long. They come from the factory with the LP Gas,, but not the good valves, it doesnt make sense to me.
 
I got crank out and the other crank back in. Everything other than the rod bearing that spun was like new. I can see the honing marks in the cylinders. He only thing that wasn't familiar was the gearing in the balance shaft . Now I have to wait a week on the new connecting rod. Thanks for the help and suggestions I appreciate it. Ill post some pictures Tuesday.
Ron
 

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