600 Hydraulic Problem

[buickman]

Hi, I appreciate your help.
My hydraulic lever stuck overnight. I removed the cover and turned upside down to view.
I disconnected the 2 arms by taking out the clevis pins. Now they are not a factor.
Moving the lift arms has no effect.
Lift lever moves but only about 1 inch. First picture shows where the lever starts. It can go no further due to the large pin hitting the cast iron casing behind it.
Second picture shows the complete travel - so the large pin is about 3/4" to the right.
Picture 3 shows the travel stop on one side. The lift lever stops just to the left of the black dot.
Picture 4 shows total travel of the lift lever - just to the right of the black dot.
The lever did not freeze. It worked the day before I discovered this.
What is restricting the lever?????
Will someone please help me!
Thanks so much
Glenn

 

[Sean in PA]

Is the small lever in the position control position or the draft control position? How far does the main handle move when you switch to the other position?

 

[Btzj02]

My first thought is that something suddenly changed. Is the follower pin, (red line), still round, intact and is it riding on the cam, (blue line)? If it is not round it should be replaced as long as you are in there.

 

[buickman]

Thank you so much for the help.
I'll be at the garage later so I can answer the draft lever question.
Regarding the follower pin, yes I checked it and it is still round - almost no wear

 

[Hobo,NC]

Hi, I appreciate your help.
My hydraulic lever stuck overnight. I removed the cover and turned upside down to view.
I disconnected the 2 arms by taking out the clevis pins. Now they are not a factor.
Moving the lift arms has no effect.
Lift lever moves but only about 1 inch. First picture shows where the lever starts. It can go no further due to the large pin hitting the cast iron casing behind it.
Second picture shows the complete travel - so the large pin is about 3/4" to the right.
Picture 3 shows the travel stop on one side. The lift lever stops just to the left of the black dot.
Picture 4 shows total travel of the lift lever - just to the right of the black dot.
The lever did not freeze. It worked the day before I discovered this.
What is restricting the lever?????
Will someone please help me!
Thanks so much
Glenn

At 21:30 I had one freeze up on that cam my mistake is I fell into the anti-seize trap within a year the linkage rusted at that point. I was able to get penetrant to it and free it up. I felt like a fool for falling into that trap I should know better. I let those anti-seize lubbers get in my head : (

 

[mhb@ufe]

Hi, I appreciate your help.
My hydraulic lever stuck overnight. I removed the cover and turned upside down to view.
I disconnected the 2 arms by taking out the clevis pins. Now they are not a factor.
Moving the lift arms has no effect.
Lift lever moves but only about 1 inch. First picture shows where the lever starts. It can go no further due to the large pin hitting the cast iron casing behind it.
Second picture shows the complete travel - so the large pin is about 3/4" to the right.
Picture 3 shows the travel stop on one side. The lift lever stops just to the left of the black dot.
Picture 4 shows total travel of the lift lever - just to the right of the black dot.
The lever did not freeze. It worked the day before I discovered this.
What is restricting the lever?????
Will someone please help me!
Thanks so much
Glenn

You are missing parts 22 23 and 24 as well as the clevis pin that holds it in place. in the attached part diagram. Those parts are needed to push the control valve in to lower the arms. Check the bottom of the sump with a magnet.

HYDRAULIC LIFT CYLINDER, SHAFT & RELATED PARTS, 1955/ | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for HYDRAULIC LIFT CYLINDER, SHAFT & RELATED PARTS, 1955/. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

 

[buickman]

Ok, I'm back. The draft control lever cotter pin was removed so it has no function.
Once I got home and thought about it, maybe I need to reinstall the cotter pin and move the
draft control lever all the way down. I'll return to the garage tomorrow after church to try.
In the meantime, I cannot tell you guys how helpful you have been. I also studied the video which will be very
helpful once I determine how to free up the lever.

 

[buickman]

Ok, I'm back. The suggestion of moving the draft control lever was a good one. I moved it to the vertical position and was able to move the lift lever a bit more - still nowhere near full range. I've attached 2 pictures of the pins that hit the housing in one direction and hit the lift arms cam in the other direction giving me about 3" of lift lever movement. Still a dilemma. All help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Glenn

 

[Btzj02]

The shaft that the hydraulic lever is attached to is not a straight shaft and there is a keyway to ensure that the lever is aligned correctly. Where that key is located has a tendency to rust and get all buggered up. If you can't see anything obvious inside the top cover I think it is time to remove the lever assembly and check the condition of the key, keyway and mating parts. Note: this diagram is not for your tractor but you get the idea how the original aluminum friction plate was keyed to the shaft.

⁹

 

[buickman]

Understood, but before I start to take things apart, the 2 pins that I have mentioned are not supposed to stop the lever in either direction?

 

[Btzj02]

Understood, but before I start to take things apart, the 2 pins that I have mentioned are not supposed to stop the lever in either direction?

You are correct. The lever should still move the full range of motion.

 

[buickman]

Good morning and thank you.
So the pins are supposed to hit on either side as the pictures show, but the lever is supposed to move full range?
Sorry, just want to be sure before all comes apart.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Good morning and thank you.
So the pins are supposed to hit on either side as the pictures show, but the lever is supposed to move full range?
Sorry, just want to be sure before all comes apart.

Yes. Its not coming apart till you break the bond (rust) RAT HERE so get it broke free at that point fist. Once free it will work like magic once a pin hits the action of the can will cam over at that point and not become a stop like its acting now. I was able to free the one I was working on without taking the cover off if I were where you are at I would remove the parts remove the rust and grease them up with a water prof grease NOT ANTI-SIZE!!!! LIKE I USED.

 

[buickman]

Thanks so much. I'll give it a try asap.
If there is anyone who would like to help, please do.
Thanks,
Glenn

 

[Hobo,NC]

Thanks so much. I'll give it a try asap.
If there is anyone who would like to help, please do.
Thanks,
Glenn

This is what happens at that joint

• Presses (e.g., reloading):
  A press "cams over" when its ram goes slightly past its highest point. This is often a desired action that preloads the linkage, ensuring a full stroke and consistent results by taking out all slack in the system.
• 
  
• yours is frozen up preventing the cam over action to occur.

Once you free this up it will be magic its your silver bullet.

 

[buickman]

Hi, Trying to find the rusted area, I took the cotter pin and nut off the lever in the picture. I would think this lever should come off easily but I heated it twice and still will not pop off. Before I proceed I wanted to check with you and others that I am proceeding correctly. This lever should slide off toward the interior, once the nut is removed - correct?
More heat needed?
Again, thanks so much

 

[Btzj02]

That is the pivot point HOBO circled above. Get good light in there and move your lever while watching the threaded end you exposed. Does the center shaft move independently of the linkage? It should. If the linkage and the shaft move as one, you found your problem. I will just mention that the last top cover I worked on the neighbor wanted to replace the follower pin with out removing the lever and shaft. After screwing around for three hours without being able to replace the follower pin he finally gave up and disassembled the lever and shaft like the shop manual described. With all that said I don't remember if there is enough room there to pull the linkage off while the lever and shaft are assembled. My first thought would be to soak it in Blaster and wiggle it until it comes free.

 

[Hobo,NC]

That is the pivot point HOBO circled above. Get good light in there and move your lever while watching the threaded end you exposed. Does the center shaft move independently of the linkage? It should. If the linkage and the shaft move as one, you found your problem. I will just mention that the last top cover I worked on the neighbor wanted to replace the follower pin with out removing the lever and shaft. After screwing around for three hours without being able to replace the follower pin he finally gave up and disassembled the lever and shaft like the shop manual described. With all that said I don't remember if there is enough room there to pull the linkage off while the lever and shaft are assembled. My first thought would be to soak it in Blaster and wiggle it until it comes free.

Whut he said. If you can not get it free all the stuff associated with the quadrant will have to come off. Circled in red. As clean as yours looks I hope someone has had this apart if so it should go good.

 

[buickman]

Thanks Hobo, Btzjo2
It took much heat but that connection is now free - See pic t1
The lift lever still moves only a couple of inches or so. notice draft control is disconnected also. See t2
Simple question. Should the lift control lever move full range now?
If not it could be the area in t3 is also frozen?
Again I appreciate all the help. I'm so afraid to break something as parts are so hard to find.
Still love my 600

 

[buickman]

Thanks so much guys. I removed the quadrant and lift control lever shaft, cleaned and de-rusted all areas that were frozen. Assembled, installed a new cam pin, and now the lift lever works as it should.
As per the video, I adjusted the draft control as instructed to .390.
The position control is another story. When I first opened the cover and turned it over, the control valve was pressed against the cylinder - see pic1
There is no way I can come close to the .450 adjustment. See pic2a where I am a good distance away from the .450 drill.
I have turned the position control bolt until I run out of threads on the retaining nut. See pic3
Please help! All suggestions are greatly appreciated.