'67 2000 gas with brand new zenith carb leaking

[3000OH]

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for updating all of us. With
regard to re-using the old pump parts, keep a close eye on your
oil level, check frequently, like before and after every use.
When the pump diaphragm fractures or pinholes, it will quickly
fill the crankcase with gas. BTDT.

 

[nashranch]

Anybody interested in a Holley for a 67 2000?? It has new 182533 kit from YT. Selling for $65 shipped USPS medium flat rate. My email open if interested

 

[vhull]

I just want to give an update on my tractor. Just to let you know I cut the metal fuel line and install a rubber fuel hose straight from my fuel tank to my carb. The tractor is running great. I have put the tractor under a heavy load with bushhog and the fuel supply is sufficant for now. Also, i had replace the old plug wires with new wires and to my shock, 2 of the 3 brand new plug wire were Bad!!
This is why I have not hair!

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 11:18:14 04/03/23) I just want to give an update on my tractor. Just to let you know I cut the metal fuel line and install a rubber fuel hose straight from my fuel tank to my carb. The tractor is running great. I have put the tractor under a heavy load with bushhog and the fuel supply is sufficant for now. Also, i had replace the old plug wires with new wires and to my shock, 2 of the 3 brand new plug wire were Bad!!
This is why I have not hair!

So you're bypassing the mechanical fuel pump now and running on gravity feed. Odds are that the screen in the top of that fuel pump is clogged. Just keep the tank above half full, especially if you have any steep inclines on your property, as a long downhill slope could starve the carb of fuel if the level of fuel in the tank is below that of the carb when you're going down the hill.

 

[Bjensen26]

I have just recently come across this exact same issue, My fuel pump was leaking so I replaced it and now I am over filling the carb and dumping gas out the bottom of the intake horn. I also found out if I screw in the filter element in the sediment bowl too tight, it will blow out the o-ring on the sediment bowl. All this leads me to believe there is more fuel pressure than there was before I replaced the pump. I have torn apart, cleaned, and rebuilt the carb now and still have the same problem. I know the needle is seating properly from blowing air into the inlet and it seals it just by the weight of the float.

I see that you said the old pump seems to have solved your problem, is this still the case? I tore my pump apart and I am afraid its not going to seal properly if I try to reuse it, but I might go that route just to see if I get any improvements.

Have you come across any other insights for a very frustrated Ford Owner?

 

[Pilot 6]

I just had the exact same issue on my 5000. I put on a new fuel pump purchased from this site. The problem turned out to be the actuator rod in the fuel pump was too long and was physically pushing on the pump diaphragm. It was pumping so hard it maxed out the 30 psi gauge I put on it to see what was going on. The spring is the only thing that is supposed to push on the diaphragm, that’s how it makes only the required psi.

It was a bit tricky but I completely disassembled the pump. The actuator rod connects to the bottom of the diaphragm by a small pin inserted through a metal sleeve with a slot in it. I took the actuating rod to my grinder and ground the top of the rod down close to the hole the pin goes through. I reassembled the pump and it now makes a constant 4 psi. The tractor runs perfectly now. I’m sure this is your problem too.

Hope this helps!