706 Jacking for front tire change

Happy Thanksgiving!

I'm needing to change the front tires on my 706 and don't have the proper tools for raising the front end enough to remove the rims/tires.

It has a narrow front end at the moment (looking for a wide front end).

What is the best and or safe way to do this?

Thanks
 
One way is to drive one tire and wheel onto a good block of wood that will raise the front end. Remove the raised wheel and tire and change the tire and put it back on. Then do the same on the other side. Done that a few times back in the day at home farm in Ill. John in AZ
 
(quoted from post at 08:41:27 11/23/23) use a jack-all on the frame. have your brakes locked.

Thanks.

Is this a "Jack-All"

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This post was edited by FinallyFarming on 11/23/2023 at 08:13 am.
 
(quoted from post at 08:43:42 11/23/23) One way is to drive one tire and wheel onto a good block of wood that will raise the front end. Remove the raised wheel and tire and change the tire and put it back on. Then do the same on the other side. Done that a few times back in the day at home farm in Ill. John in AZ

Thanks John.
I haven't got it running yet.

But that sounds like a good plan for when I do.

This post was edited by FinallyFarming on 11/23/2023 at 08:26 am.
 
yes if your doing it personally, do one at a time, but not if your hauling them to town.
 
Jack-all must be a Canadian term. Handyman or Hi-lift is what I have always known them as. So, what is happening as far as getting it running? You repaired the solenoid what is keeping it from running now? Need more assistance with anything else?
 
(quoted from post at 10:20:45 11/23/23) Jack-all must be a Canadian term. Handyman or Hi-lift is what I have always known them as. So, what is happening as far as getting it running? You repaired the solenoid what is keeping it from running now? Need more assistance with anything else?

Hello!

Great news!
Got her running today! She purrs like a cougar!
It was just a simple matter of restricted fuel flow.

Besides the helpful advice here on things I need to do (plenty)...

I need to clean out the fuel tank, install some new fuel lines and a new fuel filter then change the oil, service the cooling system, fix the flat tire and start taking her on some test rides.

I have to build her a new seat. The foam is good and theres "some" of the old seat cover left but I'll need to cut new wood base and sew up a new cushion cover and get foam and make a new back rest.

OR...If I can find a good original type seat I'll just buy one.

Stoked.
 
I like a 2x6 and top that with another,that will raise
one tire up enough to replace one worn out tire with a
new tire. It works good as long as you do not have A
Roll A Matic JD tractor. Or the very rare IH with a
Roll A Matic.
 
(quoted from post at 11:29:46 11/23/23) I like a 2x6 and top that with another,that will raise
one tire up enough to replace one worn out tire with a
new tire. It works good as long as you do not have A
Roll A Matic JD tractor. Or the very rare IH with a
Roll A Matic.

Thanks.
I don't think it has a roll A Matic but then Im not sure.
What it does have is the rear wheels reversed I think to save space so the rear end is narrower than it would be with the wheels on the correct way.
 
Those are very unsafe,especially for a 'newby'. Even us 'old guys' get hurt with em from time to time. Use it on a wide front,lift one side at a time. NEVER try to jack up a narrow front tractor! the tractor
can swing aroundand fall. Only use a bottle jack under the clutch houseing. Keeps the load balanced. However,the safest way is to drive one wheel up on a block.
 
dont know how that can be unsafe. just keep your hand on the handle when lower the jack other wise it can take off on you with the handle racheting up and down and smacking you. i sure would not say they are unsafe. one of the handest jacks to have around the farm. geez i have 3 or 4 of them always and always use them. changing tires, jacking tractors pretty well everything. i would be lost with out one. and yes they are called jack-alls , the name even used to be on them. they ae made way cheaper now. you just need to think about what can happen if something goes sideways, as thats why i said to lock your rear brakes. i am very safety conscience. and i will never have a narrow front tractor on the place .
 
Just run it up on one wheel and swap out the old tire then switch. Those handyman jacks didn't get the names they did for no reason. As for the safety of a wide front I've been around narrow front tractors all my life so far and never tipped one over yet and have some pretty steep slopes here. One 10 acre piece we seldom put into row crops because of the slopes. We also have an old ditch I take the fertilizer and spray guys down and show them. I tell them there are 2 calls I don't want to make to their boss and their wife or girlfriend telling them the machine is not upright. Our narrow fronts are all set for 60 inch centers for 30 inch rows. So they would be I guess set backwards for all you 36-40 inch guys. Got to turn the casting around to dish in if you want to fit those rows with it. To plant spray and sidedress you have to fit the rows. As for a wide front on a 706 Most already had them on the tractor from the factory if it was sold in the midwest or corn belt and they are not the same areas. The 06,56,and 66 series when the engine is off they have no brakes to set and the park brake is a marginal thing from my past 40 years with them. SO i would not use a handyman jack for a tractor jakc and I would kind of doubt the jack would be able to be worked to lift the front of a 706. They are not the Hand M or 400 most would think of lifting with them. I'm not sure what the capacity of them is but I would not want to try it. If you must lift both at once use a jack under the front of the clutch housing to lift both at once will be solid and safer than fooling around with an under sized jack. a 706 can weigh in at the 8000 and up range depending on weights loaded tires and gas or diesel. As weel as tire size. With 38's it will weigh more than with 34's. Just like if it has front weights or not.
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:01 11/25/23) I have 2 high-lift jacks and one narrow front tractor, they are both wonderful tools for those of us qualified to use them!

It doesn't take much to be qualified. Usually if you outgrew eating paste in kindergarten, you're qualified to run one of those jacks.

If those jacks were as dangerous as people make them out to be, you would not be able to buy one. As it is they're everywhere. You can get good ones, cheap ones...
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:32 11/23/23) Those are very unsafe,especially for a 'newby'. Even us 'old guys' get hurt with em from time to time. Use it on a wide front,lift one side at a time. NEVER try to jack up a narrow front tractor! the tractor
can swing aroundand fall. Only use a bottle jack under the clutch houseing. Keeps the load balanced. However,the safest way is to drive one wheel up on a block.

I am concerned that driving one wheel up on a block would leave the tractor very unbalanced and prone to tip?

That's just from me looking at it. Since I've never done it (yet) I'm sure your advice is far better than my thinking on it. I can do that once I get the steering wheel leak fixed and replace the fuel petcock, lines and filter today.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 10:34:28 11/26/23)I am concerned that driving one wheel up on a block would leave the tractor very unbalanced and prone to tip?

No. 99.9999% of the tractor's tipping stability comes from the REAR wheels, which are set way out compared to the narrow front, and the front and rear are rigidly attached to each other.

There is absolutely, positively no way for the tractor to tip over running one wheel from the narrow front end up on a block.
 

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