806 Diesel

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I got a 806 diesel new rad overhaul it and it will run 195 plowing and oil pressure is at 22 lbs ck everything all good I use 40 weight oil and get that when I 1st overhaul it and put in 15 40 oil it had 10 lbs at 2200 and o at idle like said ck everything and think else to ck

Did you verify that using a known good gauge?

 

[the tractior vet]

It should be running around 65 PSI , son you have issues if that is the correct pressure . things to check , Main bearing clearance , rod bearing clearance , condition of oil pump . And i don't give two hoots i hatties what they say we use ONLY Series three 30 weight . 15-40 requires closer tolerance . and a lot more oil flow . 15-40 did not come onto the seen till 78 with the onset of the Big Cam Cummins . NONE of use meaning my old customers/ Long term friends who have used me for there repairs and also the main Supplier of MOST of there farm equipment all run 30 weight . The tractors they farm with are nothing newer the a 66 series and most were bought off of me in the 90's . They are NOT on Hobby farms they are working farms and full time farmers . Personally i have had many 806 D but was never able to hold on to them as someone just had to have itand when you offer way more then one could go by one for and wants to hand me twice what ya can go buy one for i will sell that way i can go buy two . the only way i have been able to keep and 806 in the stable was BUY ONE that was UGLY and NOT fix the leaks or repaint it and make it look new . Mine has over 11000 hours and other then a water pump and alt. and flip the disc in the starter solenoid two clutches one PTo input and bearing new radials several seats and steering wheel it is the ugliest ya ever seen and only the valve cover has been off the engines back in like 98 . My old customer who was down on his luck and in need of a tractor i sold him a 1066 back in 93 at a bargin basement price . he is still running it . One rebuilt injection pump had a new T/A in it when i sold it to him and just now low side is starting to slip , one total rear end rebuild , one clutch and PTO input and it is coming up on 8000 hours and the engine is strong and hold 60 PSI HOT . So y9our little darling has serious issues that need addressed NOW before you ventilate the block . The D 361 is NOT the engine to be messing with as a NOVICE . Ya need to find and OLD GOAT like me that knows that engine . that engine over the years has core shift and when this happens the crank is not inline with the crank bore . and when the crank is not inline then neither are the pistons and rods . The BLOCK needs line BORED not line HONED BORED . Then the next step is to rebore the cylinder bores OFF th3e NEW CRANK CENTER LINE to install the .010 over sized sleeves . next is to have the rods redone . then on to new cam bearings . the D 361 was one of the best engines ever to be built , it is just not and easy one to rebuild . . my first D 361 rebuild was back in the late 70's and i LISTENED TO and OLD I H mechanic . We sold that tractor during the blizzard of 77 to a dairy farmer . He was still usen it when i retired in2010 .

 

[MeanGene1]

A friend of mine has a few serious uglies. A 1466 with most of its ragged sheet metal off another tractor, cab with busted A/C, half the floorboards out so adding to your baking pleasure, and completely worn out and indifferent shifters- but runs soooo good. After about a half hour, the family of spiders that was living in the busted overhead A/C unit had enough of the heat and started vacating onto my head. 1206 that is nearly unrecognizable but still married to a baler. And over to the side, picked over so bad I had to ask, a 1256. He's not much for sheet metal and paint, just running

 

[Mark EC.IN]

A friend of mine has a few serious uglies. A 1466 with most of its ragged sheet metal off another tractor, cab with busted A/C, half the floorboards out so adding to your baking pleasure, and completely worn out and indifferent shifters- but runs soooo good. After about a half hour, the family of spiders that was living in the busted overhead A/C unit had enough of the heat and started vacating onto my head. 1206 that is nearly unrecognizable but still married to a baler. And over to the side, picked over so bad I had to ask, a 1256. He's not much for sheet metal and paint, just running

"1206 that is nearly unrecognizable"

That line brought this old girl to mind. It has been customized by the Amish neighbors.

 

[MeanGene1]

You’re going to have to give me a diagram that shows how that works. When you launch the rear end is twisting the snout of the “pig” as the vet calls it wants to twist up through the floor board. So traction bars mounted under let’s say leaf springs pointing forward also want there forward point to go up. That front end reacts against its anchor point pushing up, which in turn on its reward connection puts downward force or pull on the axle, which transfers to the tires equaling greater down pressure for traction. If you have the bars out the back the rearward point wants to go down and acts on its rear most anchor point pulling down. The reaction on the other forward end attached to the axle wants to pull up, lifting the axle lessening the pressure the tires have for traction. Again, diagrams that disprove these physics are welcome.
All this and poor old Farmalliron in reply 10 just wants to know about the oil pressure in his 806??

All that long-winded "physics" stuff, and you still missed that I put the bars behind the axle, but ON TOP of the springs, so the rotational force PUSHES DOWN, no pulling down, creating the same effect as the bars in front pushing up. I don't have to draw you any pictures, you just need to think about it with an open mind. BTW, this one has an Alston chassis that will certify to 7.50, with a 4-link suspension that provides a large amount of adjustment. I have two of those setups, as well as a ladder bar setup (first picture) that is a little simpler but still works pretty well

 

[used red MN]

All that long-winded "physics" stuff, and you still missed that I put the bars behind the axle, but ON TOP of the springs, so the rotational force PUSHES DOWN, no pulling down, creating the same effect as the bars in front pushing up. I don't have to draw you any pictures, you just need to think about it with an open mind. BTW, this one has an Alston chassis that will certify to 7.50, with a 4-link suspension that provides a large amount of adjustment. I have two of those setups, as well as a ladder bar setup (first picture) that is a little simpler but still works pretty well

I missed “zero” what I said still applies, point being physics can’t be changed. In your case the 4 link suspension setup changes a LOT of how the rear axle reacts in its connection to the chassis. In the case of the vet’s “hidden” traction bars on his leaf spring suspended rear axle everything I said applies. Instead of the traction bars adding traction from the initial twist and launch of the car off the line relying on weight transfer off the front wheel onto the rear wheels his idea was shooting him in the foot. I ended up being the one supplying the drawing.(edit oriented to read the wording the front or forward side of the chassis is to the left) Take a look physics don’t lie. So as unbelievable as it may be the vet was just a high school kid trying things he thought were correct, but in the end learning from his mistakes like we all did. Luckily he didn’t mount them properly or he likely would have beat Neil to the moon! (for some reason the emoji’s aren’t working for me and boy does this reply need some!) sorry the drawing is sideways.

 

[MeanGene1]

Actually, it works, if you put the bars on top instead of underneath- think about it. I did that with an old set of slapper bars on my old F250 Highboy when I was pulling it with a 427 that would twist the frame up pretty good. Class I was running wasn't supposed to have suspension mods, and they were on top of the springs out of sight. Vet, we could have some fun swapping stories- can you guess what this road's fictional name was in a pretty famous movie? There used to be Start/ Finish lines painted on it. Had to stop and honor it with the Maverick

View attachment 146507

Nobody knows this road? Was in a very famous movie in the early 70's

. That's the Maverick I had for a while, very stout build with ladder bars, had a blown alcohol Keith Black engine in it, Car was built by an old Top Fuel builder

 

[used red MN]

View attachment 146774

Nobody knows this road? Was in a very famous movie in the early 70's


View attachment 146773. That's the Maverick I had for a while, very stout build with ladder bars, had a blown alcohol Keith Black engine in it, Car was built by an old Top Fuel builder

I would answer, but it would farther incriminate me. In actuality I have committed a forum boo boo by chiming into an off topic conversation inside a thread. But my slip was far less than that of the tractior vet’s. When he wants to go into his ramblings he should move over to Tractor Tales and start a thread there saying I was posting in the Farmall, International and McCormick forum and the topic reminded me of ….insert ramblings here. But, that will never happen.

 

[the tractior vet]

I missed “zero” what I said still applies, point being physics can’t be changed. In your case the 4 link suspension setup changes a LOT of how the rear axle reacts in its connection to the chassis. In the case of the vet’s “hidden” traction bars on his leaf spring suspended rear axle everything I said applies. Instead of the traction bars adding traction from the initial twist and launch of the car off the line relying on weight transfer off the front wheel onto the rear wheels his idea was shooting him in the foot. I ended up being the one supplying the drawing.(edit oriented to read the wording the front or forward side of the chassis is to the left) Take a look physics don’t lie. So as unbelievable as it may be the vet was just a high school kid trying things he thought were correct, but in the end learning from his mistakes like we all did. Luckily he didn’t mount them properly or he likely would have beat Neil to the moon! (for some reason the emoji’s aren’t working for me and boy does this reply need some!) sorry the drawing is sideways.
View attachment 146754

Well the way i did it worked for me and yep they were welded on solid brass bushed with grease fittings . . That 61 Ford was and INGOT . back then they were made of Steel full framed and on convertibles they had a heavy X frame between the frame rails . the car came off the line ok for it's size and weight . . Yep many made fun of my home made traction bars . Many also said Fords don't run . Anybody can make a Chevy run . Just like many use to tell me ya can't make a small cam Cummins run . well there was TWO NTC 350 Small cams that would flat up and out pull KTA 1150's Many back then said Fords did not run ya can't make them run . Well we did around here ya had to contend with seven Fords that run back in the sixty's My 61 ,Koonsie's 62 406 , Dick S.'s 63 427 Dick W.'s 63 F 100 Teddy D.'s63 390 375. Mine was the only one built from a new bare block bare heads and truck crank . When i bought the 61 trading my 56 Ford rag top the 61 was a 223 6 with three on the tree. Got laughed almost out of school over dropping to a 6 from a 292 Dual quad with all the store bought goodies added . Also remember us OLD guys were the ones coming up with new idea's and the age of performance was just coming alive . Only a hand full of engine builders back then . Where i worked we had and in house total machine shop less a crank balancer . We could weld up cranks and regrind we could line bore a block , mill heads bore blocks from A briggs and strattion up to BIG V 12's and V 16's . We had five guys that worked that end OLD GUY'S that would help and teach ya and in the far end was a Diesel repair shop that rented a big bay . that is where Dick W worked and he and i became friends He was all Ford . While i was in the service Dick left that shop and opened his own working on Detriots and starting a machine shop and bu8ilt the most modern shop this side of the big creek . Dick was 7 years older then me . When i went into fixen tractors all the machine work went to him and if i was in a huge rush he would say you know where the machine is DIY it . As i could run all of it i was just SLOWER at setting up for a line bore . Yep today they have some up with more idea's beter cam's injection what have ya but back in the STONE AGE so to speak we made it happen . @The local drag strip was owned by a close family friend and my one cousin and the owner were the ones that made it happen , my one uncle built the timing tower ontop of the old silo . I was 8 and got to run the 8 ton galion roller laYEN DOWN THE BLACK TOP . That cousin was also the one that SOLD the design for the sting ray to GM as Cousin Dick hand built a Corvett with the fast back design in a car and a half garage on S/E Bvld. here intown where i live . The one day it was a Circus in the back yard of Aunt kate's with over 50 people taking pictures massuren of this hand built wonder with the ft. end of a 61 Corvett and the fast back . Under the hood was a Z 11 backed up with a Munci four speed . I got to run it out at the drag strip and at the time it was the fastet car i had ever diven . Crossen the lights in a 10.32 .

 

[the tractior vet]

I missed “zero” what I said still applies, point being physics can’t be changed. In your case the 4 link suspension setup changes a LOT of how the rear axle reacts in its connection to the chassis. In the case of the vet’s “hidden” traction bars on his leaf spring suspended rear axle everything I said applies. Instead of the traction bars adding traction from the initial twist and launch of the car off the line relying on weight transfer off the front wheel onto the rear wheels his idea was shooting him in the foot. I ended up being the one supplying the drawing.(edit oriented to read the wording the front or forward side of the chassis is to the left) Take a look physics don’t lie. So as unbelievable as it may be the vet was just a high school kid trying things he thought were correct, but in the end learning from his mistakes like we all did. Luckily he didn’t mount them properly or he likely would have beat Neil to the moon! (for some reason the emoji’s aren’t working for me and boy does this reply need some!) sorry the drawing is sideways.
View attachment 146754

I would draw ya BLUE PRINT of how i did if i knew how to post . And yea i am suffering from cabin Fever and super bad night of flash back from 68.

 

[used red MN]

I would draw ya BLUE PRINT of how i did if i knew how to post . And yea i am suffering from cabin Fever and super bad night of flash back from 68.

Well in all honesty you owe me nothing. When I come across things that “poke my button” I often make to much out of it. That was 60 plus years ago and probably doesn’t mean beans today. I might question in my mind their effectiveness but if you say “they worked for you” that is good enough.
If you really want to post a “blue print” the “Attach files” button at the lower left lets you upload (post) a file or document from any storage folder in your computer. Or what I did was drew the diagram on paper, took a photo of it with my phone. Accessed YT on my phone and using the Attach files button posted the photo of the diagram. On a phone you can even choose to take a photo when you click the Attach files button, so it could be done that way.
I am curious if you ever tried to get your old handle back as I suggested in another thread? Sorry to hear about your flash backs, thanks for your service!

 

[the tractior vet]

Well in all honesty you owe me nothing. When I come across things that “poke my button” I often make to much out of it. That was 60 plus years ago and probably doesn’t mean beans today. I might question in my mind their effectiveness but if you say “they worked for you” that is good enough.
If you really want to post a “blue print” the “Attach files” button at the lower left lets you upload (post) a file or document from any storage folder in your computer. Or what I did was drew the diagram on paper, took a photo of it with my phone. Accessed YT on my phone and using the Attach files button posted the photo of the diagram. On a phone you can even choose to take a photo when you click the Attach files button, so it could be done that way.
I am curious if you ever tried to get your old handle back as I suggested in another thread? Sorry to hear about your flash backs, thanks for your service!

Well my phone is a dumb phone, It does not do text. no fancy internet access , it makes phone calls , can serve a drop on concrete from 35 feet and can go swimming down to 35 meters what ever that is . It makes phone calls and receives phone calls . It does what i need with 9 hours of talk time . It is small and compact . I see my buddy with his latest and greatest smart phone after it fell out of his shirt pocket and his L X 665 ran over it . The 1066 ran over this one and never phased it just left dust from the 18.4x38 firestone radial cleat . don't have a scanner . . Gave my computer camera away when my old friend in Mo. died as we use to scypes . My friends list gets smaller seams like every passing month and one moved away . Two with cancer one living on borrowed time with a bad heart condition . My friend with the fantastic machine shop left several years back my injection pump guy nnalert got him . and also my machinery jockey friend that i use to run with . lost contact with all the auctioneers that i knew from out east out into Iowa , all the OLD I H mechaincs that i knew out in Indianan and Ill. . Old Bill for Marion In. man he was sharp and learned a ton off of him as i use to see him at three of the sales i went to and when i was not bidding and buying Bill and i would talk . He was in his mid 80's and had 30+ years on me . He is the one who told me why i was having issues with the valves on the 460-856 gassrs and Why we were eating pistons and scoring cylinder liners . His family owned a large dealership and had seen these issues and had worked with IH engineers to solve the issues . He was the one to switch to the low ash in the I H gassers and they sold a ton of them and got to see it all first hand . He was the one to tell me on what gas is to used in them . 89 octane in the 4-560's and 93 for ALL after 1963 . The part of getting my customers to use low ash cut into my income from the loss of valve jobs . Usen the 93 in the 706 gassers i sold and buddy i bought and sold a boat load of them and on avg i was dragging home no less then three A WEEK Several times we brought home two 53 foot semi loads and when they wrre narrow ft.s ya could make a LOAD with the 53 foot step decks with the special 12 foot top deck and you could;d squeeze 8 on a load with the back on hanging on by half a tire and the first one hanging over the same . Wide ft's it was tight but ya could load five . with my f 350 and 28 foot goose neck i would load two . Let them call T/A out i was all over it . Since i was at the time a Hy. cap dealer and had the parts on stock two and ahalf days and it rolled out with a new t/A and clutch rebuilt MCV and a 2 year full warrant parts and labor for 706's and for the bigger ones three year parts and labor . Never had one come back . Eugene;s 1066 was done sometime back in 94-96 i would have to look to see when for sure and NOW it is starting to slip SOMETIMES . I sold him all but one tractor and one round baler . everything he farms with i sold him and it is all still runnningbut the org 706 gasser due to it ate a piston after we could no longer get staight 93 . the Al-KI=HOL laced ( 90 that they sell as 93 on the first tank ate a piston halfway out the hay field after filling the tank while running a J D Haybine , his brothers 706 gasser at a piston the vary next day with the same gas . And no sense throwing money into them with a new slleeve and piston and have them eat another piston half way down the dield the day after doing the work .