806 Torque

[Galen Houk]

I just bought a 806 diesel to add to my collection. I am doing a little plowing and wondering about an old question I have asked IH guys before. What do you need to do to keep from damaging the torque? The only sure way I have been told is to never use it. Some say not to shift it when standing still, others say not to use it to shift down on the road and free wheel. The tractor also jumps out of low (low, high, reverse lever) sometimes when plowing. Other times it will pull very hard and not jump out. I would guess things are just getting worn and it depends on exactly where the shift lever is.

 

[wd9garymn]

Nice looking 806 Galen. If you remember seeing mine when you hauled an IH corn picker for me. Anyway never shift ta to slow down when running on the road in a higher gear. Always shift ta up or down with a fast motion, never ease it one way or the other. When i did heavy tillage (5-16 plow & 18 1/2 ft field cult.) i always ran in high 1 with the torque back. I had a large rock box full and 150 lbs. wheel weights on the front of that. That old girl would still lift the front end in a heavy pull plowing. Was running 106 HP before i put on a turbo and did not turn up the pump after i installed it. Have fun with the 806, Gary.

 

[used red MN]

The main thing is to not downshift it to the low side when de-accelerating or the engine is holding back on a slope. And shift it up or down briskly. Another thing that should not be done is in road gear do not run it up to full rpm in the low side and shift it to high. In the higher gear it puts a lot of load on the direct clutch to make that speed change in the higher gear ratio. If I have a good load or want to get moving quickly in road gear I usually let the rpm come up about 3/4 of full speed, then blip the throttle a little when I throw the TA ahead to give the direct clutch a chance to hook good. Best thing in road gear is to just run it up to 11 or 1200 rpm in the low side blip the throttle when you shift to direct. Then just pour on the throttle and let it come up to speed in direct. Keeping the TA and main clutch properly adjusted is also important. Ha Ha those ..it will not break if you do not use it guys.. Probably the same ones that never run their tractor full throttle. LOL!

 

[fastfarmall]

Hi, nice looking 806,does it have a turbo also, kinda looks like it might have a M@W sticker on the hood,I bought a new one in 67, still have it,I only put in two Torques,but the dealer never told me,or any body else how to shift it either, or what not to do! The one thing, i have never had the starter off! Oh i did change rod and mains twice,but they looked great!

 

[Galen Houk]

Yes, it has a M&W turbo. Came from an estate sale.

 

[Galen Houk]

I remember you. Thanks for the help. I have been plowing with 4 16s in 4th low with the torque ahead. About 5.5 mph. It makes it snort pretty good. It should be fine to shift the torque up and down under load right?

 

[Galen Houk]

Thanks for the information. It is very helpfull. How do you know if it is adjusted right?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 17:40:44 11/10/21) I remember you. Thanks for the help. I have been plowing with 4 16s in 4th low with the torque ahead. About 5.5 mph. It makes it snort pretty good. It should be fine to shift the torque up and down under load right?

That's what it was designed to do.

Just shift it firmly and decisively.

An 806 TA should not freewheel. If it does your low side holdback clutches are out and/or whoever put the TA in did not set the pressures right and they're likely ruined because of that.

There are three different TA designs, the original mechanical which freewheels down hills on the low side, the large frame hydraulic TA like what is on your 806, which is basically a 2-speed powershift, and the TA units in the Doncaster tractors. The myths that apply to one do not necessarily apply to all.

 

[used red MN]

The last reply by Tractor Vet in this previous YT post tells you how to adjust it. And yes you can shift it under load. I will give this guidance though. Say you plow a pass and you find a tough spot that requires a TA downshift followed by another length of say 50 - 75 ft. of better soil you could go back up to direct and pull through. After which you find another tough spot that requires another low side shift. So to apply common sense to TA shifting on the next pass knowing that the next tough spot is coming in 50 or so feet I would just leave the TA in the low side until you pull through the second tough area, hopefully you understand what I am saying. Maybe put it this way, use the TA but do not overuse it. Every shift from lo to direct wears some lining off of the direct clutch pack fiber lined discs. Same as use of the main pedal operated machine clutch wears on the main dry clutch lining.
Edit for slight wording change.
Previous YT post


This post was edited by used red MN on 11/11/2021 at 09:13 am.

 

[Galen Houk]

Thanks for the information. The description in that post might be usefull to a seasoned IH mechanic but to someone who has never owned one it might as well be in French.

 

[the tractor vet]

Oh Bull Pucky , Drop the hammer and let it go ahead and peak out and make your shift , once she has reached WOT and gov speed she has reached peak horse power and peak torque and has nothing more to give till ya make the shift . GEE's ya just do not want to downshift and use it as a jake brake . Fastest way to flip the ramp and rollers / Sprag . Good grief we drag loaded 18 foot silage wagons that weigh in at over 36000lbs with what we have even used the 706 gasser use to drag them and we sure do not live on flat land . Been doing this with my 806 since 1990 and ain't taken the T/A out yet center of the clutch but not the T/A .Only T/A that has been taken out is the one on the 1066 because my buddy's one kid pulled the T/A into low going down a steep hill in road gear when he had the BIG wagon on filled to the roof , that T/A was installed back in 94 when my buddy bought that rag and we rebuilt that tractor from the PTO to the Rad . Every nut bolt and screw was out of that one and the only thing were bare cases setting on the shop floor . when it went back together every bearing , seal, gskt with new main shafts some new gears , Hd. 6 pad clutch , h D T/A new pumps a MCV rebuild a few upgrades to the engine to way over stock Hp. and it has had the bag ran off it . Once a year i run the check on the clutch and T/A and adjust as needed .

 

[the tractor vet]

Run it like ya stole it just DO NOT USe the T/A as a JAKE BRAKE FOR ENGINE BRAKING . Keep clutch free travel setting up to date along with the trans brake and the DUMP_ valve . As for your jumping out of gear problems i lay ten to one that ya have a broken missing roller or two in the range transmission in the shifter cam and the shift rail . Not a big deal to fix And if it has never been upgraded to the spring loaded park loc NOW is the time for that . If i get one in that has not been changed it does not leave till it has been . Keep up on hyd filter changes and fluid changes . If it becomes a play toy and spends more time setting then worrking her bag off then before play period it is wise to go under it and crack all and again i say ALL the drain plugs from the clutch housing back and let them drip out as they make water while setting and this will prolong fluid life and keep moisture out from mixing with the Hyd fluid.

 

[used red MN]

I never said that you are not Flamboyant! You definitely call em like you see it.

 

[Galen Houk]

Thanks. Good information. I will take it in this winter for transmission and torque checks you have suggested.

 

[Stuart]

How can you get 18 tons of corn silage in an 18ft forage box when I can only get 14 tons in a 22 ft box?

 

[the tractor vet]

Well all i can tell you is that of what we see going across the SCALES . As we have weighed them . So that is how we can tell . We also know where we can and can not go when they are FULL as we do not have enough dog for the tail . Things don't end well when you spin out going up a hill with a four wheel wagon on a road . Our county extension office has six sets of portable electronic scales just like the state uses to weigh big trucks , and you can BORROW them . When we weigh we need 3 sets . All ya need is a level concrete pad and any idiot can use them if your not blind and can read NUMBERS and ADD . Place each unit in front of each tire and pull up on the scale and stop , either have someone on the ground with paper and pen that can write each scale reading and add them together . We light weigh each wagon and mark the lightweigh on the side of the box and just subtract . We started weighing the year we bought corn off a neighbor . at first we were going to run each load the 4 miles into town and run them across the platform scales till someone told us about the ext office having the portables and were FREE to use . Also that year it was a fight just getting the wagons up and out of the field as the 2255 Oliver and the 1066 needed help , That is where i pulled the center out of the clutch on the 806 . So i guess you need taller side boards on yours or grow better corn.

 

[Stuart]

I guess my CAT state certified scale is off... Or you cant add. Those scales are not that accurate. Corn silage usually weighs 20-24 lbs per cubic ft.

 

[the tractor vet]

Oh there not HUMMMMMm yea they are , i am not a new comer to Portable scales . You try telling a judge that they are NOT accurate when they put your sorry donkey up on them . Running coal bucket i spent some time up on them . when the Bear tells you your a wee bit over like 40 or 50000 over and ya got your little ticket and went on your way and ya pulled onto the power companys scales and that 100-300 lbs difference did not make a bit of difference . They are state certified . So if ya want to run with the big boys then put bigger side boards on . Or better yet you come drag them next year .

 

[Janicholson]

Absolutely. It designed to do just that. Have at it. Jim

 

[LMack]

We did not do head rows years back and turning could be interesting. Since I had ripped the main clutch out of one unit I determined to make the end turns without touching the clutch. I first learned to do it by lowering the RPM's and making the turn but things got better when we got a unit with a TA. Using a reversing flip over bottom the end of the row could be busy since plowing in third gear I would raise the lift, lower the RPM's, throw the TA into low range, set the remote to flip the plow, make the turn and line up for the next run, shift the TA to high range, drop the plow, and . . . raise the RPM's to plow speed. . . and hope that I had remembered to set the remote properly or the plow would not have flipped. In the south a 10 chain row, (660') was considered long so we would do a lot of end of row turning.

 

[the tractor vet]

Well we plow the head lands here and myself i have been plowing with semi mounts since gees 1959 I will drop to low as i back out while the plows are still in the ground and under load some where around 14-1800 RPM for more hyd flow to raise the plows faster . Now normally it is not often that we need the T/A since none of our tractors are running stock Hp. In corn ground i can run high 1 with 5x16's with my 806 up hill and down . in sod it is down into low 4 . With 4x16's it is high 1 .