8N engine oil change

[Anonymous-0]

What would be the recommended engine oil "weight" for a 1948 8N, and approximate oil capacity? I plan on using the tractor all season, stored in a heated garage.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:



http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil



Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. (If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug. Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. But, save the old gasket until you are sure the new one does not leak. I've had problems w/ the new thinner gaskets & so have others. Add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter.
50 Tips

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 09:31:20 11/18/09) What would be the recommended engine oil "weight" for a 1948 8N, and approximate oil capacity? I plan on using the tractor all season, stored in a heated garage.

Assuming a moderate climate with winter lows near 10F - SAE 10W30, 15W40, or 20w50 - first one in the list that gets you good (10+ PSI at 1500 RPM) hot oil pressure.

TOH

 

[Anonymous-0]

Heated garage, 20w50 holds oil pressure best.If its outside may be a little slower cranking in cold weather.Back in the 80's Nissan recommended 20w50 in their 4cyl cars and trucks.Some still on the road. 6qts R.M. IN AL

 

[lha]

I use 15w-40 on my '41 9n year round and have good oil pressure as soon as it cranks[needle starts to climb].I do use a 'universal oil"used for deisel and gas engines,which has zinc additives.Any oil that says "energy saving" or anything like that DOES NOT have additives for older engines.---lha