8N hydraulics

One thing to look at right away, is the shifter boot. Is it torn or cracked? If it is, get that replaced pronto. I dragged home a Jubilee that had sat outside with a torn boot for years and the transmission was a solid rusted mass when I took it apart.
 
It will be stored inside a gravel floored enclosed lean to attached to the barn where it’s been for the last 15 years. I’ll probably throw a couple of old sheets over it. Shifter boot is good but the hydraulic dip stick needs to be replaced.
 
It will be stored inside a gravel floored enclosed lean to attached to the barn where it’s been for the last 15 years. I’ll probably throw a couple of old sheets over it. Shifter boot is good but the hydraulic dip stick needs to be replaced.
I go through a lot of hydraulic dipsticks. I must keep hitting them with my heel and the top portion breaks off.
 
You can store it inside or outside it will still form condensation in the trans/axle unless you're in the desert. Heat is the only cure to evaporate the moisture out or prevent it from happening.
 
It will be stored inside a gravel floored enclosed lean to attached to the barn where it’s been for the last 15 years. I’ll probably throw a couple of old sheets over it. Shifter boot is good but the hydraulic dip stick needs to be replaced.
Old motor cycle wisdom: Do not cover the tractor directly with a tarp or any other water proof material. Your moisture isssue will be worse. Sounds like you have a good plan. Keep it under the leanto to keep the rain off it and cover it with a material that is not water proof that allows moisture to evaporate. Internal moisture is unavoidable. Best thing to do is run the tractor frequently!
 
My hydraulic pump will raise, and lower the blade on the rear but when I try to grade rock the blade wants to ride up and over. Any idea what is going on?
 
My hydraulic pump will raise, and lower the blade on the rear but when I try to grade rock the blade wants to ride up and over. Any idea what is going on?
I have a 2N, but the adjustment for the main control spring appears to be the same for both the 2N and 8N.

It is possible that the problem is caused by the main control spring adjustment. While the lift should come up some to clear an obstacle, it should be able to dig into the rock. After I replaced the lift cylinder and rebuilding the pump I had a problem with the rear blade riding up and over 3" stone and not digging into class 5 gravel much at all. We are talking small rock, as in 2-3", not big ones? I don't know if a worn plate (957E527) can require some control spring adjustment, but an improper adjustment after reassembly sure can cause the problem that you described.

When I reassembled the linkage, I tightened the yoke (almost as instructed) until it took up the slack on the control spring (9N547B) and the control spring was hard to rotate. I did that with the lift in the down position. The instructions say to adjust the yoke in the UP position. You have to start the tractor and raise the lift arms to do this. It also helps to read the instructions more carefully and recognize that the hint given by printing UP in capitol letters means that it is important. Tightening the yoke solved the problem. The lift seemed OK immediately after reassembly, but after a short period of use, it started to come up without touching the control lever and fail to come down without a substantial load applied. That can get dangerous if you start to change an implement while the tractor is idling with he PTO engaged.
 
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