Alternator not working

[super99]

I dont think the alternator on my Oliver 1550 is working. The battery is only a couple of months old, the amp guage shows a small charge but it doesnt put out enough to keep the battery charged. I put my tester on it after charging for a half hour and it showed 13.4, then I started it and opened throttle wide open and it read the same.

It has a voltage regulator, not sure if its the alternator or the regulator

 

[J Hamilton]

Might try cleaning the contacts, if it's that style of regulator, also clean and check all connections including the ground to be sure they are good and not just a few strands of wire holding it together

 

[rustred]

Appears you need to adjust ur regulator , them tractors have a separate regulator. If its the factory unit.

 

[MarkB_MI]

If it's actually putting out 13.4 volts, it's charging. Barely. I would suspect that meter, though. What does it show on a vehicle you know is charging properly?

Why do you think the battery isn't charging? Does the tractor fail to crank the day after you've run it an hour or so?

 

[super99]

On my other 2 tractors with alternators, when started, the amp guage shows full charge for a little bit and then moves back to a small charge. This one shows a small charge all of the time. After charging the battery, it will start for several times and then the battery doesn't have enough juice to charge it. I'll test one of the other tractors and compare them.

 

[Jim.ME]

If you don't know what alternator you have, post a picture of the back showing the connections.

A Delco 10DN alternator (uses an external regulator) output can be tested with a full field test.

Unplug the two wire regulator harness from the alternator.

Hook up a voltmeter between the alternator battery terminal and ground.

With the engine running use a jumper wire to apply battery voltage to the ''F'' spade terminal. You should see the voltage rise as the alternator output increases to maximum.

If the voltage during the test, goes above the voltage you are seeing with the regulator plugged in, the regulator is likely the problem.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Mine has been changed to a 10SI. Which do you have? My past experience with them is to polish up the slip rings once in a while and maybe replace the brushes. New battery could also be a bad one. Have it load tested, most any auto parts store will do it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Lets get this right, 1st step

After you charge the battery you need to knock the surface charge off. Do this by cranking the tractor and immediately STOP don't let the engine start. Are turn the headlights on for 30 seconds. You could also load the battery with your tester just load it for a few seconds.

The battery voltage should read 12.6/12.7 that's where you need to start diagnostics.

There are more diagnostic steps involved I normally don't jump forward but will in this case. Check the alternator belt my wager its slipping and by your description that would be the number one suspect. Low voltage low amperage battery going dead over time its a dead give away the belt are the dive belt system is suspect.

Engine off push on the alternator fan if it slips on the belt its a must to address that issue first!!!.

Use the gift god gave you, with a few tools the answer to the issue is right in front of you. No need to haul the battery off to a parts store as none have the ability to properly test the battery. Proper testing of the battery is a lost art the tractor was built with a load tester put it to use take that info and apply it. Alternator testing, the tractor came from the factory with its own alternator test stand the best one money can buy. No part store can come close to it : )

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 06/17/2023 at 05:39 am.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 08:27:33 06/17/23) Lets get this right, 1st step

After you charge the battery you need to knock the surface charge off. Do this by cranking the tractor and immediately STOP don't let the engine start. Are turn the headlights on for 30 seconds. You could also load the battery with your tester just load it for a few seconds.

The battery voltage should read 12.6/12.7 that's where you need to start diagnostics.

There are more diagnostic steps involved I normally don't jump forward but will in this case. Check the alternator belt my wager its slipping and by your description that would be the number one suspect. Low voltage low amperage battery going dead over time its a dead give away the belt are the dive belt system is suspect.

Engine off push on the alternator fan if it slips on the belt its a must to address that issue first!!!.

Use the gift god gave you, with a few tools the answer to the issue is right in front of you. No need to haul the battery off to a parts store as none have the ability to properly test the battery. Proper testing of the battery is a lost art the tractor was built with a load tester put it to use take that info and apply it. Alternator testing, the tractor came from the factory with its own alternator test stand the best one money can buy. No part store can come close to it : )

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 06/17/2023 at 05:39 am.

obo, you are right too much of the time!

 

[redtom]

Some of the time, with external regulators, I find all I need to do is shine up the mounting areas where the reg gets it's ground.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Do you have a fan belt tensioning bracket on the ALT? If not you will never charge the battery or maintain proper cooling and can damage the water pump and cause overheating. On our FORDS, many 12V conversions use the Delco 10SI 1-Wire units with VG success. There is no Voltage Regulator on the ALT. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring.



Tim Daley (MI)

 

[used red MN]

Tim, this is very likely the factory alternator so it will have belt adjustment capabilities.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I fought the regulator on my gas 1550,gave up, installed a 1 wire alternator from DB Electrical no more problems.

 

[RodinNS]

I'd obviously start with belt tension. Then I would clean and verify the connections with the regulator assuming this is a 10dn. If it's got poor connections it may not sense correctly, however if that was the case it would probably read high, not low. More likely, it's just got dirty or worn out brushes/slip rings. Taking it apart and giving it a cleaning may suffice...

Rod

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 21:52:52 06/18/23) I'd obviously start with belt tension. Then I would clean and verify the connections with the regulator assuming this is a 10dn. If it's got poor connections it may not sense correctly, however if that was the case it would probably read high, not low. More likely, it's just got dirty or worn out brushes/slip rings. Taking it apart and giving it a cleaning may suffice...

Rod

Where I would start, Hummm its always in the back of my empty head... Yes I remember now, I would confirm the accuracy of that meter!.