Aluminun boat hole

[Phil Doolittle]

I have a pontoon boat with a !/8 " hole in the bottom of the pontoon. Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix without welding?

 

[old]

JB weld, or some other such type of stuff like JB
Hobby farm

 

[ArleninOr]

Take the kids fishing and let them take turns plugging the hole.

 

[boathull]

I used silicone sealer on the leaks on my riveted aluminum boat. It flexes with the hull and sets up even under water.

 

[Mike M]

Get some of that fancy Aluminloy rod as seen on TV. Hope it works better for you than me. I tried it on a mower engine block with no luck.

 

[ScottP]

Stainless sheet metal screw with clear RTV under the head.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Aluma-weld it!

 

[Anonymous-0]

You're right it can't be welded. I would agree with using epoxy like JB weld or something. Don't use anything that requires heat to fix it. The heat could change the temper of the aluminum. Dave

 

[Anonymous-0]

Depends on how big the hole is. JB Weld was too soupy for me to use on a rip in my old fishing boat. I used a putty-like epoxy product and it worked great.

 

[old]

Sorry to tell you this Dave but yes it can be welded its just not the common type of welder you would need to do so. It would have to be mig or tig welded. Sorry BTDT and worked in a boat factory where they welded things like that day in day out and had 100s of pontoons go out the door and all of them where weld. Oh also if mig welded it need special wire and gas to do so
Hobby farm

 

[IH2444]

Used some Bernz O Matic aluminum soldering sticks on an aluminum semi vee boat and they worked fine.

Just cleaned it up good with a stainless brush and used a Mapp Gass torch with no oxygen.

tin around the edges and then put a piece of tinned alum in the hole and sloder it up, file it down and go.

now if the alum is corroded away and thin a flat patch will be required. You need good alum to hook to just like needing good steel to weld to.

 

[Dick L]

Water Weld made by JB Weld or the magic putty as seen or TV. Both the same stuff.

 

[jose bagge]

screw a metal roofing screw (w/rubber washer) into it...don't over tighten!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Many years ago when I was installing two-way radios in car trunks that's what I was told to do if I accidently drilled into a gas tank!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Drill another one next to it to let the water out, or plumb in a pipe, and a 90 degree nipple, and a shower head for some added propulsion!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Any goop you put in there will be a temporary "repair". A sheet metal screw with a rubber gromet is better and maybe get you through till it comes out at the end of the boating season. The right way is to weld it.

 

[jose bagge]

There were 5 of 'em in the left side tank of my 85 chevy dually when i sold it...I showed it to the buyer, he asked "does it leak?" I said nope and he said "no worries!"

 

[Anonymous-0]

Saw this before then ate dinner and was thinking;[oh,oh] Anyhow.Its a closed vessel and may need another hole drilled for welding to releive pressure so thats kinda out.How about drill with letter drill[P? forget] then tap with 1/8-27 pipe tap and put in an aluminum plug available at speed shop with the AN fittings section [usually blue anodized].

 

[MarkB_MI]

I assume that you can't get to the inside of the pontoon, so any repair needs to be done from the outside.

I would NOT use any kind of epoxy. Pontoons are pretty thin and will work a lot. Epoxy is hard and likely to crack. I would use some sort of marine-grade polyurethane or polysulfide sealant. Do NOT use any kind of silicone sealer, there is no silicone sealer made that will hold up under the waterline.

My favorite marine sealant is 3M 5200 polyurethane. You can get it at most marine hardware stores. 3M also makes good polysulfide sealers. (Generally polyurethane is a better choice than polysulfide unless it will be exposed to fuel.) I understand that the Sika brand sealants are very good, but I've never used them.

Scuff up the area around your hole with Scotch-Brite. If the hole is jagged, drill it out so it won't start a stress crack. When you apply the sealer, force a little bit into the hole so your repair will "lock" into the hole.

Jamestown Distributors carries a full line of marine sealants.
Jamestown Distributors

 

[504-2]

To tell the truth you probably do not need to do anything, I have had three different pontoons over the last 40 yr. and two of them had holes in them. You couldn't`t tell till you pulled them out of the water and pulled the plugs out.

 

[T_Bone]

Hi Phil,

Gas welding would be the best repair.

My second method would be a #12 SM screw with butyl as a sealer. 1/8" would be the correct hole size for a #12 in lite gauge SM, #10 in 12ga(3/32") or heavier SM.

I would never use silicon as a water sealer.

T_Bone

 

[rockyhawaii]

I've been a commercial fisherman for a few years, and around the docks they say a pontoon is pretty tricky to fix and should be done by a qualified marine welder. Usually they will cut the end off of the pontoon and weld it from inside. The problem comes from stress cracks. When you weld the pontoon that area will be too rigid if not done properly and you don't want to find out when you're in water deeper than you can stand up in.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Years ago, a guy I worked with had an old pontoon boat. I guess it had been run up on a concrete ramp a lot, cause it had holes about a foot long wore in both pontoons. He had some outfit fill the pontoons (they were sectioned) with some kind of expanding foam and left the holes open. Musta been a cheap fix - he was as tight as the skin on a bean.

 

[lucas boy]

we use marine tech epoxie for small holes .probably comes in other names. boat places or ebay sell it.as far as welding, heli arc is best for alu boats.lucas

 

[Phil Doolittle]

Thanks a lot for the help, sorry I don't have enough grandchildren to keep their finger over the hole. Make it a good day.

 

[Bud in FLA]

Here's a "quick & dirty" for ya - check out the local plumbing supply house. Get a screw made for plugging water heater leaks. If you're worried about the "drag", grind the head some after it's installed but keep it cool so you don't damage the neoprene washer.
I couldn't find a link but they're basically a fine thread sheet metal screw with a neoprene washer....a screw for metal roofing might do it, too.

 

[KIP in MX]

Clean area around hole good and glue a small aluminum patch on with Hysol 9309NA structural adhesive. End of problem.