Battery post shims

[Hobo,NC]

I know I said I was done, but just to clarify, I'm talking about ONE SPECIFIC CLAMP DESIGN. The design in the pic by the OP. And I understand what Hobonc is saying. If I were to replace the clamp, and battery, and the clamp still doesn't tighten on the post, what is the alternative? Keep trying different batteries? At some point you run out of options. I work on these models on a daily basis. The example shown of a bad clamp installation is just that. Someone performed a bad service. That example is easily remedied by pushing the clamp down as it should have been done to begin with. But this clamp is a different animal. It's a bad design and not something you can replace with a different design. If I cant find a battery and clamp combination that works, what do I do? Tell the customer that I can't fix their car? I can't do that. Being the manufacturer's dealership, I have to find a solution. But I will reiterate that I have never had a battery with a PROPERLY installed shim come back for an electrical problem. I've seen some that were really cobbled up, but no comebacks for ones that were installed correctly.

Cool, My point of the pix is most of these issues are self induced so go behind the installer. Once that post suffers from poor insulation its difficult to overcome. I have cut the plastic from the bottom part under the clamp to get the clamp farther on the post. I always throw away those useless felt washers one reason as they add to act as a spacer aggravating the issue. Is there a part number for the cable end ? to the poster can you post a Vin # are year make model engine size.

I hope I am never forced into this if so I will break out the stabilant 22 and inform the customer its an emergency repair. I already stock more battery/cable repair parts than the average shop whats one more part. This is no place to mess around the battery is the heart of the electrical system.

On GM side mount cables that no one loves I have cut are removed the plastic off the end of the cable terminal to clean it if you don't you are not going to clean it well. To clean them you will need a 3M surface disc. Another rule no battery leaves unless its tied down in some way even if I have to conger up a way (bungee straps are not an option). On the ford Forums I have posted pix of battery cable and battery tie down repairs I take pride in my work those connections and tie downs are performed to high standard.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Cool, My point of the pix is most of these issues are self induced so go behind the installer. Once that post suffers from poor insulation its difficult to overcome. I have cut the plastic from the bottom part under the clamp to get the clamp farther on the post. I always throw away those useless felt washers one reason as they add to act as a spacer aggravating the issue. Is there a part number for the cable end ? to the poster can you post a Vin # are year make model engine size.

I hope I am never forced into this if so I will break out the stabilant 22 and inform the customer its an emergency repair. I already stock more battery/cable repair parts than the average shop whats one more part. This is no place to mess around the battery is the heart of the electrical system.

On GM side mount cables that no one loves I have cut are removed the plastic off the end of the cable terminal to clean it if you don't you are not going to clean it well. To clean them you will need a 3M surface disc. Another rule no battery leaves unless its tied down in some way even if I have to conger up a way (bungee straps are not an option). On the ford Forums I have posted pix of battery cable and battery tie down repairs I take pride in my work those connections and tie downs are performed to high standard.

I made up some cables for my Fergy with soldered on tinned terminals.

Whoever came up with the GM side mount terminals should have got slapped up silly.

 

[Mad Farmer]

double post

 

[NDIHC]

Cool, My point of the pix is most of these issues are self induced so go behind the installer. Once that post suffers from poor insulation its difficult to overcome. I have cut the plastic from the bottom part under the clamp to get the clamp farther on the post. I always throw away those useless felt washers one reason as they add to act as a spacer aggravating the issue. Is there a part number for the cable end ? to the poster can you post a Vin # are year make model engine size.

I hope I am never forced into this if so I will break out the stabilant 22 and inform the customer its an emergency repair. I already stock more battery/cable repair parts than the average shop whats one more part. This is no place to mess around the battery is the heart of the electrical system.

On GM side mount cables that no one loves I have cut are removed the plastic off the end of the cable terminal to clean it if you don't you are not going to clean it well. To clean them you will need a 3M surface disc. Another rule no battery leaves unless its tied down in some way even if I have to conger up a way (bungee straps are not an option). On the ford Forums I have posted pix of battery cable and battery tie down repairs I take pride in my work those connections and tie downs are performed to high standard.

Yup, I'm a big fan of stabilant 22. I use it on certain cars that have air bag connector resistance problems inder the seats. Once the connector is repaired ( using the process in a TSB addressing the issue) i always use stabilant 22 on the terminals. I think I must have fixed all of those connectors in the area, and haven't had one come in for a repeat repair. Of course thise cars are now 20 years old so maybe they just don't come to me. Anyway, here is a car that came into our shop this afternoon, with the same clamp as the OP showed. The customer concern was that the engine wouldn't stay running after being started. Good for a chuckle.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Yup, I'm a big fan of stabilant 22. I use it on certain cars that have air bag connector resistance problems inder the seats. Once the connector is repaired ( using the process in a TSB addressing the issue) i always use stabilant 22 on the terminals. I think I must have fixed all of those connectors in the area, and haven't had one come in for a repeat repair. Of course thise cars are now 20 years old so maybe they just don't come to me. Anyway, here is a car that came into our shop this afternoon, with the same clamp as the OP showed. The customer concern was that the engine wouldn't stay running after being started. Good for a chuckle.

Lucky me I have the option to say I can not help ya, no one needs that in their life. I would like to know what it would cost to put it back like it should be. The shocking part folks don't realize how labor intensive a repair like this is. When I get time I will reply back to this gotta get to work.

 

[NDIHC]

Lucky me I have the option to say I can not help ya, no one needs that in their life. I would like to know what it would cost to put it back like it should be. The shocking part folks don't realize how labor intensive a repair like this is. When I get time I will reply back to this gotta get to work.

Luckily one of the other guys is working on this one. There are pieces broken and mising from the cables so to do a proper repair, both cables should be replaced. If I remember right these run around $300 for the positive cable since it's a harness with starter, battery and alternator connections. The negative is about $150 because it includes the battery sensor. That's parts, not labor and my prices are what they were 3 or 4 years ago as I haven't replaced any lately.

Lucky me I have the option to say I can not help ya, no one needs that in their life. I would like to know what it would cost to put it back like it should be. The shocking part folks don't realize how labor intensive a repair like this is. When I get time I will reply back to this gotta get to work.

 

[DoubleO7]

@NDIHC
Holy moly, that looks like a Walmart parking lot "fix".

What did it look like upon leaving the shop?

 

[JMOR]

They're a little more difficult to use jumper cables on, although it can be done.

Stay away from the plastic shims!
View attachment 66310

The 'shim' that you show comes with the battery at no extra charge.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I've never had one come back. Ever. The vehicles we use the shims on are generally under factory warranty, so if there was a problem, we'd see them back. This type of clamp can be tightened only so far. They will be tight on the oe battery but will not tighten on the replacement terminal. A new cable end changes nothing. The clamp isn't stretched or anything like that. They simply have limited range of tightening. In some instances, it is possible to drive the clamp farther onto the post as you suggested, but not always with the plastic housing and fuse holder on the clamp. It is a design I work with on a daily basis. It is what it is. And we don't just throw a shim on everything. It's just the one certain type of clamp, the exact one that the OP has in the picture.

I have never seen a failure of this method either. It’s all in the installation. It must be properly protected from corrosion… just like any non-shimmed battery clip . The same wrecker can tow in either vehicle for electrical failure if corrosion is allowed to occur.

 

[NDIHC]

@NDIHC
Holy moly, that looks like a Walmart parking lot "fix".

What did it look like upon leaving the shop?

I think it got pushed outside until the owner decides if he wants a proper repair done with new cables. If not...I'm not sure! The guy working on it took all of the owner's "repairs" off so now we'd have to put it back to how it was when it came in. Personally I wouldn't have touched a thing on the car until we had a commitment from the owner to do a proper repair or nothing at all. The cooling fan was from a different vehicle and tied in with shoelaces if that gives you any indication of the vehicle condition!

 

[Texasmark]

What do you think of battery post shims????

I have a battery positive cable that even when tight you can wiggle it around.

Just take your bandsaw and cut off part of the "jaw".

 

[Jim.ME]

Just take your bandsaw and cut off part of the "jaw".

If you follow through the posts in this thread and look at the pictures, you will see that you cannot just "cut part of the jaw off" without destroying some of these new style clamps that are being discussed, due to the way they are made.

 

[Texasmark]

If you follow through the posts in this thread and look at the pictures, you will see that you cannot just "cut part of the jaw off" without destroying some of these new style clamps that are being discussed, due to the way they are made.

I agree with that.