Bleeding Injection Pump

[Texasmark1]

1963 4 cyl 2000, RoosaMaster DB6 VCC_______ top distributor pump. ON the side of the distributor housing, is the inspection plate for checking timing
and below that is the ID plate. Beneath the ID plate, lower left corner is a tall, Brass, Acorn nut that I think.....but not sure and need to be sure.....is the
bleed screw.

The manuals for it and for hundred series tractors go into pretty good detail about how to change the filter and that part is a no brainer and done, and
mentions bleeding the pump including opening the bleed port and crank the engine through a few times till you get solid fuel flow, then close it off and
crank her up, but no pictures.

Also, one would suspect that the throttle needs to be wide open when cranking during the bleed process. I don't want to have to go to each injector and
crack the fuel line. I feel this would be unnecessary since the tractor hasn't been rolled over or moved since I shut it down and popped the filter. The
less I touch the less the opportunity for a 45+ year old tractor to have something break......and my pump was running just fine and surely don't want to
mess with the wrong screw and generate a problem with it.

As usual appreciate your help.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Texasmark1]

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, or lost. Read up and viewed what was available on the www. None were my tractor but there were some Stanadyne Roosa Master tidbits of info. Best one was a picture of a pump bleed screw just inboard of where the fuel return line plumbs up.....?" wrench fits it and it has a hole in it for a safety wire. Not in the exact location as mine but close enough knowing the functioning.

Unscrewed it, clear fuel came out, no air, let it run for 15 seconds or so, closed it up, punched the starter and wala. Success.

So, thanks anyway.

 

[Dieseltech]

The DB Stanadyne-Roosa pumps have no bleed screws as pump body is self bleeding. The small brass nut is on each end of the governor pivot shaft. If bled well at the injection pump inlet after a filter change engine should start with no trouble. All injector line nuts need opened whenever the pump is removed/replaced.

 

[showcrop]

I have a 1959 971 Diesel. I ran it out of fuel once. I just left it for that day and came back a day or two later. I bled it at the filter and at the injectors. I didn't mind bleeding it a the injectors to get it going. It was no big deal.

 

[Texasmark1]

The reason for my concern was the fact that the fuel line between the filter and pump inlet came out of the filter about 3" lower than the inlet to the pump. I did read that they are self priming but "under what conditions" was my concern.

On bleeding the injectors, I missed the prime on the CAV pump in the 3000 when I changed those filters and did bleed the injectors and it was no biggie. This tractor has never had a wrench on the engine proper, pump and steel fuel lines included (some rubber changed out over the years) in it's 3800 hour life. The less I touch the better.