Block Heater for Farmall Gas 340

[Bookman]

you could post a pic of you engine both sides. i do know that the diesel model has the frost plugs on the right side the as the bigger brother models. i cannot remember if the gas model had them . but i still say to mount the circulating heaterr in the lower rad hose is the better deal as it actually circulates the coolant. them block heaters just only heat the colant sitting there and takes convection to make it rise and takes way longer to heat a block. the name of them heater is tempco., such as at napa or other jobber store.

Thanks, It is a gas engine

 

[Bookman]

The waterpump may have a fitting hole with a plug. The YT store sells a pump (Item #: 107892) that has the openings for a barbed fitting to be able to be used for the tank type heater. Jim

Thanks

 

[Jim Becker]

The parts catalog confirms the C-135 only has the 2 plugs in the back. The C-153, although derived from the same original design, is a sleeveless engine. The sand casting core would be quite different. Support for that core may be the reason the C-153 block has additional core plugs (about a half-dozen as shown in the parts catalog).

Every choice of where to connect a heater has one drawback or another. There isn't much extra space near the lower radiator hose. I'd be inclined to hook in at the block drain. For the other connection, if hooking it at the water pump, as JAN suggested isn't possible, I would probably tee in at the temperature sensor.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The parts catalog confirms the C-135 only has the 2 plugs in the back. The C-153, although derived from the same original design, is a sleeveless engine. The sand casting core would be quite different. Support for that core may be the reason the C-153 block has additional core plugs (about a half-dozen as shown in the parts catalog).

Every choice of where to connect a heater has one drawback or another. There isn't much extra space near the lower radiator hose. I'd be inclined to hook in at the block drain. For the other connection, if hooking it at the water pump, as JAN suggested isn't possible, I would probably tee in at the temperature sensor.

The 113-123-135 being a wet sleeve design is completely open inside with the sleeves out. There's no actual cylinder bore in the block itself. When they flush the casting sand out it can go right out through the sleeve bores top and bottom. No need for core plugs.