BPS Paint

[Anonymous-0]

I've read through several discussions regarding the BPS paint from Tractor Supply and am as confused as ever. I'm wondering if those who had fading problems used the hardener. I've talked to a friend who has a restoration business who says that he would clearcoat the pieces and fading shouldn't be a problem. He said he doesn't see a problem with this paint. I'm going to be using Case Flambeau Red... got the last gallon of it at my Tractor Supply store. I don't mean to start a pissing contest, but does anyone who has actually used this paint see a problem still happening if I clearcoat the tractor? Actually it would probably just be the tin pieces because the rest of the tractor is halfway across the country and I'll end up painting that part. Will I end up with a two tone paint job in a few years? The tractor will probably be indoors 90% of it's life.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Lot of controversy about BPS and other alkyd enamels, the brand really makes little difference -- Probably ok if left inside. But, just about all the 30-40-50-60's cars that had the stuff on them from the factory faded -- badly, and it eventually would disappear down to the primer. BPS and other alkyd enamels are essentially the same paint that was on those cars. In my opinion, alkyd enamel is really no better or worse than the newer acrylic lacquer that was used on some GM and other cars in the 60's and 70's either. Clear coat will not help unless it contains UV inhibitors. Also, hardener does not contain UV inhibitors and will not reduce fading. Hardeners will produce more initial gloss, and and it "may" last longer than the unhardened paint, but only because it was shinier to begin with. But, modern paints are light years ahead of alkyd enamel. You truly get what you pay for. BUT, you can make it last a lot longer by keeping it waxed, just as I did the 60's and 70's cars I owned.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Pissing contest??? Who? Must have seen that on some other forum...never here!!

 

[Anonymous-0]

i have used several colors of the BPS paint and i can say firmly that it does fade quickley and takes forever to dry. i finially had to add some japan drier to the paint just to get it to dry to touch within several hours. BTW, i was brush painting and did thin the paint about 25% to make it stretch further. from now on, i will buy good quality acrylic enamel and mix my own colors. BPS is just not what i want in paint. as the ols saying goes: "the sweetness of cheap prices is forgotton sooner than the bitterness of poor quality".

 

[Anonymous-0]

Did you use the hardner that they recommend or try clearcoating it? I'm asking because I don't hear much in the middle, it's either "I hate it", or "Don't listen to the who badmouth it.". This tractor will probably spend 90% of the rest of it's life indoors. People are saying that a clearcoat with UV inhibitor or regularly waxing it will reduce the amount of fading considerably... don't know the best way to wax an engine block though.

Lee

 

[Anonymous-0]

no hardener or clearcoating. i was mainly painting some old implements. i finially had to resort to using a better quality paint and spray it on.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Anybody ever used this paint? It's still made by Valspar, but it's a modified acrylic enamel instead of the alkyd enamel like the BPS paint.



Lee
<ul><li><a href="http://www.equipmentcolor.com/lic30.html">Valspar Acrylic Enamel </a></ul>

 

[Anonymous-0]

The can says "acrylic enamel" -- from the price I would say that's what it is. I have not used it but it will be substantially better than alkyd enamel, but not as good as the urethanes. In between acrylic enamel and alkyd enamel is "acrylic modified" alkyd enamel, don't know if Valspar has that, it is the old alkyd enamel with some acrylic properties, notably UV inhibitors to provide fade resistance. People often confuse alkyd enamel and acrylic enamel, they are not the same. Also, if the can simply says enamel, you can bet it is alkyd, not acrylic. Case-IH dealer paint is acrylic modified alkyd enamel, people who have used it seem to like it. One problem with the premixed paint, such as the Valspar you are asking about is that tractor manufacturers usually have had more than one color. If you want the "correct" color that may or may not be it. Unfortunately the same thing happens with the paint you have mixed -- there simply are no guarantees.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The Data Sheet says it's a modified acrylic enamel.

Lee

 

[Anonymous-0]

By the time you lay out the money for the clear coat, you can buy the acrylic enamel you mentioned above and not have to worry about incompatiblility, etc. And, the acrylic enamel will likely look as good and last longer than the clear coated alkyd enamel. Also one less step to mess up. Again, hardener does not add fade resistance, it will cure faster and perhaps flow out better. The flow out depends more on the application than the hardener, though.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think the "modified" they use is that they imply that they have a superior formulation, compared to other brands (sales talk). Perhaps Rod(NH) or B-maniac will correct me (both have forgotten more than I presently know), but technically I don't think there is any such thing as a "modified" acrylic enamel. They could mean it is a acrylic modified alkyd enamel, as they can call it anything they want. Another reason to buy from the major manufacturers. If you can find the MSDS, it may tell what it actually is. DuPont has a version of Centari acrylic enamel that when hardener is added, they then call it acrylic urethane. I do not know.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Forever to dry? Must not have used the hardner.

Soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

I'll throw in my 2 cents.

I paint predomintely with BPS. I also use hardner.

So far, I've painted a few implements and a handfull of tractors with it.

For the most part, my tractors set out in the pasture under a tarp sun shade. Though i do have one that is in my garage.

The unit in the garage was painted about 3ys ago.. it sees pretty much only show and parade use. It has a wax job ( JD soy based ag wax ). The paint looks 100% the same as the day I painted it.

For the other tractors i've painted, for instance my ford 5000... It has a year on the paint now.. has never seen a garage, but has been under a tarp structure about 8-9 mos of the year. it is a semi-retired working tractor. it totes a 10' mower now and then, and also pulls hay rides, and occasionally a broadcast seeder.

Paint looks 99.9872% like the day i painted it except on wear spots. Like the leading edge of the steps, and the fill / drain plugs that wrenches go on to do maintenance.

My oldest tractor paint job with bps is about 5-6 ys old now. I buffed a fender the other day and it came back to a shine. it also had that soy wax on it. It has seen more sun and rain than any of my tractors. most of my others are the same as the 5000. my IH cub paint looks like the day it was painted.. etc.. 2n.. etc..

On the flip side.. It's a cheap paint and i know it... I don't expect to get more than 10 ys out of it. Heck.. i can drop another 100 buckls and paint again in 10 ys and it will look brand new again.

On my implements, my broadcast seeder is holding up well. No paint wear on the ID of the bowl, and the outside looks just like when it was hanging to dry after being shot.

My JD batwing mower is almost as good. The top deck amazingly looks 97% or better. Even though i walk on it alot. It cuts about 10 ac every 3-6 weeks depending on rain in florida. It's now down for the 'cold season/winter' we get here.

The underside of the deck has wore a bit... no metal showing though.

This mower doesn't get babied. It looked rough when i got it.. took a few weeks of welding and pressure washing to get it to be presentable and in working condition, and then another 4 days to prime and paint, plus some extra time for decals and SMV's.. etc. I pull it with a 2002 NH 7610s, and cut anything I can drive thru. The mower sets in the pasture... no cover..

Funny thing is.. the CNH factor paint on my 2002 NH 7610s is fading bad.. it will need a paint job after next season I predict.

I'm not saying it is anything other than cheap paint.. but with a little care, and regular prep.. it should be ok working clothes.

Soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

Okay, I've resolved the problem with cheap paint... found this website that has Flambeau Red in Single Stage Urethane for $67.54/gal. I looked at the chip chart and it looked more red than orange so I called, they said it was very close to the Allis Chalmers Orange which is what I wanted so I ordered a gallon.

The webpage is a little confusing, for Flambeau Red, you want to order D-8.

Lee
<ul><li><a href="http://www.equipmentcolor.com/lic40.html">Single Stage Urethane</a></ul>

 

[Anonymous-0]

never used hardener. i used to paint cars for a living years ago and i never used any hardener. all i ever used was paint and thinner. never had any problems with name brand paints like sherwin-williams or dupont or martin senour. in fact the company i worked for would not buy any hardeners or any other additives.sometime if i had a particulary dirty surface that was hard to clean, i would purchase some fish eye remover and use it, but that's it. like everything else nowadays price seems to rule the market and thus quality suffers because cheap prices and high quality merchandise do not exist together.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have used BPS and Valspar paints. Also tried Tisco brand and dont't see much difference in any of them. I use Napa Reducer and hardner in all of them. Have tried Dupont,Martin Senior and
PPG Acrylic and Basecoat Clear Coats. I guess it all depends on what your pocketbook or your customers pocketbook will stand. My question is can You spray Urethane Clearcoat over Cheap Enamel without it lifting???

 

[Anonymous-0]

Probably ok, if you believe the color (I'm a skeptic since there is usually more than one code for a given name) -- don't forget the hardener, and use the one they sell, the reducer also. It won't cure without hardener.

 

[Anonymous-0]

That's why I specifically asked them about the color, I knew there was the orangy-orange and the one that was too red. The lady I spoke with pulled the chip sheet and said that the color was very, very close to the Allis Chalmers orange... which from what I can tell is the shade of orange I wanted. I did order the reducer and hardener.

Lee

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hardner has many uses.. among them, drying time modification, luster enhancement, and increased durability to chipping and fading.

Cheap paint or expensive paint... hardner sounds like a good addative.

Just because something was the 'way to go' years ago does not automatically mean it is the best choice now.

Some paints won't cure at all without a catylist.

Soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hi Lee,

I'm the owner of equipmentcolor.com. I spent the
afternoon updating the urethane section to be less confusing. I also recalculated the pricing and the JI Flambeau Red came out at $58.03. So we owe you $9.51 which I'll credit to your card tomorrow.

The color we sent is definately very orangy. We verify everything to original chips and reformulate as needed. Unfortunately, alot of times with equipment and tractors they do vary some. It sounds like it's what your looking for though.

Larry

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks Larry, the site is extremely clear to use now. I look forward to getting and using your paint.

Lee

 

[Anonymous-0]

I received my paint this afternoon, very quick shipping and careful packaging. This color is exactly what I was hoping for and expecting.

Lee