Brush cutter yoke problems

[DWHEELS]

I have a IH brush cutter my grandsonson was using my utility 300 with the brush cutter out back cutting down tall weeds, he didn't let the cutter down where the trailing wheel was on the ground which I believe caused the yoke which is attached to the gear box to get ripped out, the cutter is a IH L1, it has a plate attached to the gear box and has 2 bolts going into the main shaft of the gear box, the yoke plate attached to the yoke is junk as is the yoke. Is there a way if I can use a different set up, instead of trying to find the original parts, or where I could find any original ones. The cutter is a 5' wide cutter and made by IH. Hope some one can help.

 

[Jim.ME]

Pictures will help

 

[sandcastle1]

hello, is the circled part what you are talking about? I am not sure I understand what got ripped out.

 

[showcrop]

The cutter should work all day with the wheel off the ground without any problem. It should also work normally with it in the fully raised position.

 

[DWHEELS]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

 

[DWHEELS]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

 

[paul]

Needs a new cross and a shear bolt, good to go. (Never mind, I missed the broken yoke arm…)

I’m not disagreeing with your rear wheel raised or not explanation, but it doesn’t really make sense in my head as to why it would matter. I’d need more info on what is going on with that.

Paul

 

[Loosehandle]

Needs a new cross and a shear bolt, good to go.

I’m not disagreeing with your rear wheel raised or not explanation, but it doesn’t really make sense in my head as to why it would matter. I’d need more info on what is going on with that.

Paul

Looks like yokes broke. Id look online for a u joint with right size hole for gearbox shaft.

 

[paul]

Oh, I missed the break in the yoke arm, a bit blurry and grease in the area of the break. As well as my age and eyes I suppose. Sorry.

Not an easy fix. I’ve seen them welded but way beyond my skill set.

Not sure how to maintain the shear bolt protection with a generic yoke. I guess have the skills or a machine shop that cuts off the plate and welds it to the new yoke?

Paul

 

[DWHEELS]

Oh, I missed the break in the yoke arm, a bit blurry and grease in the area of the break. As well as my age and eyes I suppose. Sorry.

Not an easy fix. I’ve seen them welded but way beyond my skill set.

Not sure how to maintain the shear bolt protection with a generic yoke. I guess have the skills or a machine shop that cuts off the plate and welds it to the new yoke?

Paul

Thank you Paul for your input, still scratching my head on this one!

 

[Jim.ME]

Given you do not have a slip clutch or shear bolt through the yoke and shaft, the plate-to-plate interface with a bolt(s) holding them together is your shear point to protect things. You need to have the broken yoke cut off the plate and a new replacement yoke welded to the plate. It needs to be properly centered and true. If needed I believe a machine shop should be able to make a new plate as well if needed.

As far as having the tail wheels on the ground, it is good practice. Sway bars or links can be used to minimize side to side sway when the tail wheels are off the ground. I am wondering if the cutter got lifted too high and the shaft was rubbing the mower frame to cause this. If that is the case check to see that the PTO shaft itself did not get bent.

Edited punctuation and spelling

 

[showcrop]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

tail wheels on virtually all of these mowers are of a castoring type. they can and will turn in any direction to follow the tractor. Does your tail wheel castor or is it strictly straight ahead to prevent sway?