Brush cutter yoke problems

[DWHEELS]

I have a IH brush cutter my grandsonson was using my utility 300 with the brush cutter out back cutting down tall weeds, he didn't let the cutter down where the trailing wheel was on the ground which I believe caused the yoke which is attached to the gear box to get ripped out, the cutter is a IH L1, it has a plate attached to the gear box and has 2 bolts going into the main shaft of the gear box, the yoke plate attached to the yoke is junk as is the yoke. Is there a way if I can use a different set up, instead of trying to find the original parts, or where I could find any original ones. The cutter is a 5' wide cutter and made by IH. Hope some one can help.

 

[Jim.ME]

Pictures will help

 

[sandcastle1]

hello, is the circled part what you are talking about? I am not sure I understand what got ripped out.

 

[showcrop]

The cutter should work all day with the wheel off the ground without any problem. It should also work normally with it in the fully raised position.

 

[DWHEELS]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

 

[DWHEELS]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

 

[paul]

Needs a new cross and a shear bolt, good to go. (Never mind, I missed the broken yoke arm…)

I’m not disagreeing with your rear wheel raised or not explanation, but it doesn’t really make sense in my head as to why it would matter. I’d need more info on what is going on with that.

Paul

 

[Loosehandle]

Needs a new cross and a shear bolt, good to go.

I’m not disagreeing with your rear wheel raised or not explanation, but it doesn’t really make sense in my head as to why it would matter. I’d need more info on what is going on with that.

Paul

Looks like yokes broke. Id look online for a u joint with right size hole for gearbox shaft.

 

[paul]

Oh, I missed the break in the yoke arm, a bit blurry and grease in the area of the break. As well as my age and eyes I suppose. Sorry.

Not an easy fix. I’ve seen them welded but way beyond my skill set.

Not sure how to maintain the shear bolt protection with a generic yoke. I guess have the skills or a machine shop that cuts off the plate and welds it to the new yoke?

Paul

 

[DWHEELS]

Oh, I missed the break in the yoke arm, a bit blurry and grease in the area of the break. As well as my age and eyes I suppose. Sorry.

Not an easy fix. I’ve seen them welded but way beyond my skill set.

Not sure how to maintain the shear bolt protection with a generic yoke. I guess have the skills or a machine shop that cuts off the plate and welds it to the new yoke?

Paul

Thank you Paul for your input, still scratching my head on this one!

 

[Jim.ME]

Given you do not have a slip clutch or shear bolt through the yoke and shaft, the plate-to-plate interface with a bolt(s) holding them together is your shear point to protect things. You need to have the broken yoke cut off the plate and a new replacement yoke welded to the plate. It needs to be properly centered and true. If needed I believe a machine shop should be able to make a new plate as well if needed.

As far as having the tail wheels on the ground, it is good practice. Sway bars or links can be used to minimize side to side sway when the tail wheels are off the ground. I am wondering if the cutter got lifted too high and the shaft was rubbing the mower frame to cause this. If that is the case check to see that the PTO shaft itself did not get bent.

Edited punctuation and spelling

 

[showcrop]

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

tail wheels on virtually all of these mowers are of a castoring type. they can and will turn in any direction to follow the tractor. Does your tail wheel castor or is it strictly straight ahead to prevent sway?

 

[DWHEELS]

tail wheels on virtually all of these mowers are of a castoring type. they can and will turn in any direction to follow the tractor. Does your tail wheel castor or is it strictly straight ahead to prevent sway?

It is a castor trailing wheel. I just.put a new solid tire on it, with a new 4 lug wheel instead of the old 5 lug.

 

[Jim.ME]

It is a castor trailing wheel. I just.put a new solid tire on it, with a new 4 lug wheel instead of the old 5 lug.

Have you figured out what you are going to do with the driveline?

 

[hurleyjd]

Good chance the top link of the three point was to long and when lifting kicks the back of the mower down and lifts the front of the mower to high and the pto shaft hit the deck of the mower

As you can see the separation of the yoke, what i want to do If possible, is to get a flange yoke mount it in place of the junk yoke and hook up the shaft to the gear box, with everything lined up bolt new flange yoke to existing plate. The type of cutter i have is a quick connect to my utility 300, I was informed that the trailing wheel needs to be on the ground in order that the cutter doesn't sway.

I would think you could remove the front plate and yoke. I think that the design after the shear bolts fail the yoke and the plate would free wheel around a smooth shaft. If possible get some wedges and hammer between the two plates and the one with the yoke should come off. Then take every thing to a drive line shop or maybe a tractor dealer and put a new cross in the U joints and you should be good to go. Adjust top link of three point to prevent the drive shaft from hitting top deck of mower. Was there any damage to the shield o the PTO

 

[Jim.ME]

Look inside the yoke. Some of that type had a snap ring on the end of the gear box shaft and a step in the yoke to keep the yoke from coming off the gear box shaft when the bolt(s) sheared.

 

[paul]

Look inside the yoke. Some of that type had a snap ring on the end of the gear box shaft and a step in the yoke to keep the yoke from coming off the gear box shaft when the bolt(s) sheared.

I would expect if he pushes the broken yoke and plate back to the other plate he will fund a snap ring on the shaft in front of the yoke. Or some type of keeper to keep the yoke on the shaft after the shear pin would break.


Paul

 

[DWHEELS]

Yes there are 2 short bolts that has a @ .25 inch solid stop washer(with 2 bolt holes) that holds the yoke from coming off. The plate that has the shear pin in it, well someone before me had a tempered bolt in it's place, I wasn't aware of it until this happen, I can see now why the yoke had gotten store up. I want to thank all of you who contributed to finding a solution to my problem, all I need now.is.to try and find the parts I need, it is a problem to find.even what the name of the parts I need. Again Jim and Paul thank you.

 

[560Dennis]

I would cut it off and weld a replacement yokes on both .