(quoted from post at 08:28:05 03/30/11) In a bad situation that will let the hog flip up on your head. OWCH!!!
Better to have a solid link and a pivot (JD type) or slot ( Howse type) to allow the hog to float a bit.
(quoted from post at 09:03:11 03/30/11)- can't imagine a circumstance that would flip a heavy bush mower up onto the operator.
(quoted from post at 09:03:11 03/30/11) I've never seen that type of toplink Caryc.
But that would be just the cat's meow - lets your mower float but at the same time lets you raise the mower a couple of inches off the ground if need be.
A agree with you above - can't imagine a circumstance that would flip a heavy bush mower up onto the operator.
(quoted from post at 11:22:05 03/30/11) God be with you
(quoted from post at 19:24:05 03/30/11) If that thing whips up around your body good luck.
Same reasoning as why you need a solid top link for pulling a
trailer w/9N 3pt drawbar.
this is my first post so please forgive all the errors. I have a mower just like the one pictured. Do you have anymore info on it?(quoted from post at 08:00:57 03/30/11) Does anyone have an opinion on the functionality of this rear top link brace (see chain) on a 5' brush hog? All the brush hogs I see have solid bracing. I have about 2 hours experience using a brush hog.
<img src="http://okiedoke.com/8n/bhog2.jpg">
(quoted from post at 09:04:45 07/06/16)
Old,
That's what the top link arms are like on my MF 59.
Got the tail wheel restored now and all the A-frame parts prepped for painting today. Putting Amsoil 75W110 synthetic gear lube in the gearbox.
(quoted from post at 12:28:10 07/06/16)
[b:a7dea9fec9]By the way. about gear lube . . .
There's a small plug half way up the backside of the gearbox
and I'm assuming that one adds gear lube until it starts to weep out that pipe plug hole. Is that right?[/b:a7dea9fec9]
i sure hope so, since that's how i do mine
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
That makes good sense, but I still like the chain set up. kinda of apples and oranges.(quoted from post at 19:22:37 07/06/16)(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
With a solid brace and top link, if you hit something big enough your mower will jump up in the air. There is no hydraulics holding your mower down.
If you were strong enough you could grab the end of your mower and pick it up and all your hydraulic linkage and lift arms would move up.
My brush hog runs well in first gear because I keep the blades sharp. I sharpen them every season.......
Take out any big nicks on the grinder and finish up the edge on a belt sander.
(quoted from post at 18:59:36 07/06/16)My brush hog runs well in first gear because I keep the blades sharp. I sharpen them every season.......
Take out any big nicks on the grinder and finish up the edge on a belt sander.
Sounds like you keep a nice place . I just wanted to add an FYI for some of the readers here . If you have large bushes , small trees , etc and livestock you may want to bush hog with a slightly dull blade . A sharp blade can cut the larger stuff and leave a sharp pointed spear sticking out of the ground . A dull blade usually leaves a stalk that looks like it exploded with dozens of frail fibers sticking up . Dull blades are not as efficient , use more horsepower , and usually leave the field looking a little rough . Chances are if you have thick heavy pastures they are going to look rough no matter how slow you go . Once you get them cleaned up , which may take a couple seasons , the sharp blades are the way to go .
I don't sharpen them "knife edge" sharp. I just bring the edge back to a nice V.
(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
(quoted from post at 19:44:18 07/06/16)(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
Now that's very interesting!
Another one of those glad-I-didn't-throw-that-junk-out moments.
I rounded up all my years of chain collection including a couple of old truck tire chains that I had picked away at over the years, and took them both apart.
Voila! My chain skirts and a few long side chains with their adjustable catches that I can use for hanging the front.
Took me a while to get them apart but saved me a ton of work compared to other plans I was working on. I can simply hang these from the back angle iron and spot weld them.
I'm hoping no one says that these cross chains are too light.
______________________________(quoted from post at 22:00:44 07/06/16)(quoted from post at 19:44:18 07/06/16)(quoted from post at 17:58:38 07/06/16) I have a Big bee and have gotten good service out of it or 12 years or so.. I like the chain link, without the chain link, what good would be the stump jumper?
Now that's very interesting!
Another one of those glad-I-didn't-throw-that-junk-out moments.
I rounded up all my years of chain collection including a couple of old truck tire chains that I had picked away at over the years, and took them both apart.
Voila! My chain skirts and a few long side chains with their adjustable catches that I can use for hanging the front.
Took me a while to get them apart but saved me a ton of work compared to other plans I was working on. I can simply hang these from the back angle iron and spot weld them.
I'm hoping no one says that these cross chains are too light.
If you put chains on the front or your mower, just make sure they are not long enough to make contact with the mower blades since the brush will be pushing those chains back under the mower.
Come to think of it maybe the pictures I'm remembering were mowers with chains on the sides and back. The blown up parts diagram on my M5 Woods mower shows them used on the sides and back. It had a solid piece that bolted on the front which is missing on mine anyway.
Does anybody else remember seeing chains used on the front of a mower?
(quoted from post at 08:55:14 07/07/16) SO I took the weekend to setup my brush cutter the way it is supposed to be. Its an Andy 500 unit. I set the thing up on 4 jackstands and crawled under and took the stump jumper off so I could put new blades on it. The old ones were BAD. Had to use the torch and some wax to get the blade bolts off. Got new blades on it, and tightened the stump jumper on good as it was loose before. Used a lot of anti seize to make sure it stuck.
I set up the cutter with the blade about 4" in the front and 5.5-6" in the back, and set the limiter chains and all that. Cuts like a dream now! I was running through hood-high grass in second gear like it was nothing, and it left a nice clean cut!
Make sure you set your cutter up right!
(quoted from post at 23:55:30 07/06/16) The Drawing board
An arc out front of the hog, such as a leaf spring, with a row of chains hanging from it. That way the central chains could be long and couldn't be pushed as far as the blades.
Maybe use those two beaconing holes on mine, for two pipe extension mounting points for that arc of chains. I'm wondering about inner tractor tire protection, being a newbie.
How about a rigid grill, again extended out front but of rebar-sized long teeth.
Maybe teeth on a frame shaped even more like a ships bow, two way plow, that would potentially roll a stone or wood block off to the side.
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