bush hog driveshafts

[dewy]

3pt bush hog drive shaft ,whats minimum space between shafts{,where they overlap} while on the ground..cant raise it yet cause havnt welded mounting brackets to deck....trying to get mower close as possible to tractor...right now i thinks it 2 to 3 inches..is that enough to keep shafts from bottoming out.....when raising mower...thanks dewy

 

[Russ from MN]

You can always cut the driveshaft off as needed, I did that to a King Kutter when I added a slip clutch.

 

[dewy]

its one of those old school driveshafts solid square on inside shaft an round thick on outside shaft has zerk grease fitting on outside shaft about 3inches from end you would cut off...dewy

 

[caterpillar guy]

Measure the collapsed length then extend to the longest safe limit and measure again then back up to mower and measure the length from tractor to gear box where the PTO shaft will set or even put the tractor end on and measure to point PTO will set on the gear box on mower. then either adjust the tractor distance or fit the shaft. You are not supposed to cut the heavy piece at the end of the outer piece. You cut it behind that at the thinner tube then reweld it with section removed or added depending on the situation. Don't get your mower to close it will hit the tires raising and that would be fun.

 

[Tx Jim]

If you elect to cut female sleeve which is about 5'' long from tube always time(phase) opposing u-joints on opposite ends of telescoping shafts before rewelding.

 

[stevob671]

I personally would not go less than 3 of overlap at maximum extension.

 

[Steve@Advance]

I would wait until you can raise it and get a good measurement.

Two inches sounds really short to me.

 

[Russ from MN]

I am not familiar with that kind of driveshaft, but you could still cut it off and move the grease zerk farther up the female shaft. If you don't want to cut it off here is what I would do. Block the cutter up so the driveshaft is about level when connected, then back the tractor up to it and hook up the driveshaft. Back the tractor up until the shaft bottoms out, then pull ahead about 3-4 inches and fabricate you mounts. This also depends if you using a solid top link or a chain. If you using a chain some bad things can happen if you hit something solid!

 

[dewy]

Thanks yall im making it fast hitch..farmall 300

 

[Tslinger]

If you're going to cut, check how much you have to work with on the female side. I've been working on an old Ford 909 mower and the PTO/slip clutch setup means I'm pretty much stuck using the original part, which has the style joint you're describing. So in just checking things out in case I needed to do any cutting (I didn't need to thankfully), I found the female side of the PTO shaft has a very limited amount of square portion. There's something like 3" of square on the end, and then it's just round pipe the rest of the way back. Had I just gone and cut it without really paying attention, I'd be hosed, and looking to have a shaft shop repair it since it's irritatingly unique.

 

[Jim.ME]

You cut the tube if needed, not the female square/rectangle sleeve, if it needs to be shortened. It must be cut square and welded back together square (the weld needs to be good). Before welding it needs to be timed correctly to the male end as well.

 

[Keith Molden]

I think you will find the outside heavy is only an insert in thinner tubing. for reinforcement of the shaft. It's not very long inside the tubing. That's what I've found on the ones I've worked on anyway. If possible I'd cut the square shaft if I need to cut any at all, but as others have said, wait till you have it mounted and raised before you cut or add anything. I prefer to have at least 6 of inside going into the outside and more if possible. As long as the inside isn't bottoming out in the outer then it's good