Case 300 round nose foot clutch problem

[chris142]

As my clutch wears the freeplay grows. It finally got to the point of needing to be adjusted. I got out my book and adjusted it by turnng the rod.

Something must have came apart inside the bell housing as no matter what I do with the adjustment i cant adjust it. The pedal moves with no resistance.

Any advice before I have to split the tractor as there are no inspection covers. Not looking forward to splitting it at all.

Thx

 

[connor9988]

If it is like the fork on my 300 when I restored it the mouse nest/pee had rusted it so badly that when I stepped on the clutch pedal for the first time it just broke the clutch fork off. You might be looking at splitting your tractor. Might just want to put a new clutch in it while you are there. I recommend a organic clutch plate as that is what is in mine and it is not grabby or jerky at all.

 

[chris142]

i got it apart. The ball that the fork pivots on broke Where can I get one and a new throw out bearing? Mine looks different than others Im seeing online. Clutch has lots of meat left.

 

[Tgrasher]

Don Livingston, mornings 507-433-0073, Jim Peeper, 573-682-5253, Troyer Tractors, Ebay store, John Saeli, 315-585-9826, All States Ag Parts, 855-530-1460

 

[Joe (Wa)]

i got it apart. The ball that the fork pivots on broke Where can I get one and a new throw out bearing? Mine looks different than others Im seeing online. Clutch has lots of meat left.

i got it apart. The ball that the fork pivots on broke Where can I get one and a new throw out bearing? Mine looks different than others Im seeing online. Clutch has lots of meat left.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

CaseiH tends to change item p/n's, listed are the latest ones I have and they may have changed again., you might find the yoke or the TO brg under any of older or newer p/n's on-line. The TO yoke original p/n G10410 sub to A36319, the last TO yoke I bought about 5 years ago was from A&I products. Replacement yoke pivot dome is sometimes spot welded in only 2 places. I add more welds. The TO bearing original p/n A49009, sub to G10610, sub to A13237. They are hard to find and "out of stock" on the CaseiH parts site.

The clutch housing and relative parts pics found on-line search are nearly all ones I have posted over the years. Most are 300 and the x00B series. You indicate your TO bearing is different than same found on-line. How is it different? Can you post a pic? I can post pics of the correct TO brg if you need them.

 

[mEl]

We at the shop did a complete weld on that dome even with new forks.

 

[John Saeli]

CaseiH tends to change item p/n's, listed are the latest ones I have and they may have changed again., you might find the yoke or the TO brg under any of older or newer p/n's on-line. The TO yoke original p/n G10410 sub to A36319, the last TO yoke I bought about 5 years ago was from A&I products. Replacement yoke pivot dome is sometimes spot welded in only 2 places. I add more welds. The TO bearing original p/n A49009, sub to G10610, sub to A13237. They are hard to find and "out of stock" on the CaseiH parts site.

The clutch housing and relative parts pics found on-line search are nearly all ones I have posted over the years. Most are 300 and the x00B series. You indicate your TO bearing is different than same found on-line. How is it different? Can you post a pic? I can post pics of the correct TO brg if you need them.

Joe: G10610 is current. It is the T/O Bearing and Carrier combo. We always keep 1 in stock.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Sorry John, I did check you website. I know you carry many more parts than listed there but just didn't click at the time. I am getting really old, 80 in the rear view mirror now, been 5 years since I split a tractor and it was mine.

mEl I would bet my first born that you would weld the dome before installing it in someones tractor.

 

[John Saeli]

Sorry John, I did check you website. I know you carry many more parts than listed there but just didn't click at the time. I am getting really old, 80 in the rear view mirror now, been 5 years since I split a tractor and it was mine.

mEl I would bet my first born that you would weld the dome before installing it in someones tractor.

Joe: I tell everyone it's a 1/2 @ss site. The guy that helps me w/ it charges over $100.00 /hr to do any work on it, so I let it alone. I tell our customers not to even waste their time and go there, simply call here w/ your needs. My folks didn't retire till they were in their 80's!!

 

[Joe (Wa)]

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/case/messages/narchive382.htm

John: I still check your website out of habit. Your avatar has you joining Dec 19, 2009. I got some parts for a VAC from you before that so I looked it up. Sure enough a bunch of you young whipper-snappers hit the forum earlier in the 2000's. 2003 is as far back as I had time to search, the history is pretty funky back then so you may have been here earlier. That makes you the seller of choice for more than 20 years here.

 

[mEl]

Joe, you are absolutely correct on that, never had a comeback for a pushed out dome. If it had failed after welding, we as a dealer would have repaired free of charge regardless of the companys thoughts on our weld as far as warranty goes.

 

[olgentdc]

CaseiH tends to change item p/n's, listed are the latest ones I have and they may have changed again., you might find the yoke or the TO brg under any of older or newer p/n's on-line. The TO yoke original p/n G10410 sub to A36319, the last TO yoke I bought about 5 years ago was from A&I products. Replacement yoke pivot dome is sometimes spot welded in only 2 places. I add more welds. The TO bearing original p/n A49009, sub to G10610, sub to A13237. They are hard to find and "out of stock" on the CaseiH parts site.

The clutch housing and relative parts pics found on-line search are nearly all ones I have posted over the years. Most are 300 and the x00B series. You indicate your TO bearing is different than same found on-line. How is it different? Can you post a pic? I can post pics of the correct TO brg if you need them.

I had a good 430 deisel that did the same thing ,,.. i was not up to splitting So I traded to a gentleman in Liberty Ky and he fixed it ..

 

[chris142]

ok im stuck. How am I supposed to screw the new release fork onto the front of the transmission? I even cut down a wrench but not having any luck Been at it since 4a and its almost 10. Theres just no room to work and the new pivot pin is very tight and hard to turn.

 

[chris142]

Got it! Had to modify/ destroy a few 7/16 wrenches to get in there. Took every bit of 8 hrs of cussing and throwing tools.

Now I have it pushed almost together but it wont go any more. Got sbout a 3/4 inch gap Dont want to force anything so I stopped for a lunch break.

 

[Tgrasher]

Take a measurement at the four corners to see if your going in square/straight. Take a pry bar and move the flywheel. You can use/start the bolts (or longer ones) for the bell housing/motor to help align it and apply slight pressure.

 

[chris142]

Got it together. Just had to get it lined up exactly straight. I don't have acess to longer bolts. Aparantly the new fork is different than the old fork and I will have to shorten the clutch rod somehow. I noticed it was slightly different but figured it would work. Im not taking it back apart to change the rod.

Also trying to find the exhaust flange gasket isn't possible I guess. Been to every parts store in town and nobody has anything even close. May try the high temperature silicone.

 

[Tgrasher]

Google exhaust gasket sheet.

 

[Tgrasher]

Had a clutch rod problem like yours after putting in new clutch. Measure twice allowing for necessary one inch clutch travel how much rod is needed. Rod will pull away from torque tube enough to allow a die for cutting the threads farther down the rod. If you must shorten the rod, cut only enough to not hit the platform. It's a lot easier to cut more off than to add back on. BTDT

 

[chris142]

Had a clutch rod problem like yours after putting in new clutch. Measure twice allowing for necessary one inch clutch travel how much rod is needed. Rod will pull away from torque tube enough to allow a die for cutting the threads farther down the rod. If you must shorten the rod, cut only enough to not hit the platform. It's a lot easier to cut more off than to add back on. BTDT

I was wondering if I could just add threads to the existing rod.Thx

I did start it and put it in gear and it works. Just gotta finish up the loose ends.