Case 530 Forklift

[dr1]

Picked up a 530 forklift a couple winters ago and just now getting to work on it. I think its a 1966, gas engine, 4 speed - dual range, shuttle. Paid $1200 after they showed me it could run and drive. Had no forks, I guess it came to the previous owner with a bucket attachment, that the original owner mustve home brewed the 3rd function in for (its not the prettiest job but it looks usable). Trying to figure out where I should go with this thing.

- My range lever was "disconnected", so i wasnt even sure originally thats what it was. Opening it up the entire fork arrangement is missing. They welded the collar onto what I assume is "high" or "direct". Is there some specific reason this might have happened? If someone managed to break the shift fork and thats what led to this, welding it seems extreme because I cant see why it would want to pop out in the first place, I guess unless it was extremely sloppy already?

- How do I determine if I have a case-o-matic/torque converter? I either have it, or have a clutch bathed in oil. Im not discounting that possibility. TractorData mentions something about being in direct drive disabling the torque converter as well, anyways I'm very confused here at the moment.

- I originally assumed I would be adding the purchase price of some forks onto this purchase, but now Im thinking thats not going that easily. The fork carriage measures closer to 21", and not the 20" that class 3 forks are sold. No taper top/bottom either. I didnt realize this was going to be a thing by this time period but, guess so. Seeing some pictures of some other rough terrain forklifts, Shaft mount forks seem common. That looks reasonable possible to home brew, or at least prep for the welder, lol. If my thoughts here are wrong and regular forks fit or easier solution available let me know. I find it odd this carriage seems to have a scribe line right at 20".

Thanks for any wisdom you can spare.

 

[used red MN]

The clutch pedal on a Case-o-matic torque converter model will only operate a valve. It will not operate an internal clutch lever on a shaft that moves a throw-out bearing. The it should have an operating control to select “torque” operation or direct drive. This is usually a knob on a shaft that should be on the dash and slides up and down to select the mode. On a COM In torque mode the tractor should be able to be in gear at an idle and held with the brakes, as you would an automobile with a torque converter in its automatic transmission. The direct mode is chosen a clutch pack, again like in an automatic transmission, is applied to hold direct drive through the converter.

 

[jean claude marleau]

Picked up a 530 forklift a couple winters ago and just now getting to work on it. I think its a 1966, gas engine, 4 speed - dual range, shuttle. Paid $1200 after they showed me it could run and drive. Had no forks, I guess it came to the previous owner with a bucket attachment, that the original owner mustve home brewed the 3rd function in for (its not the prettiest job but it looks usable). Trying to figure out where I should go with this thing.

- My range lever was "disconnected", so i wasnt even sure originally thats what it was. Opening it up the entire fork arrangement is missing. They welded the collar onto what I assume is "high" or "direct". Is there some specific reason this might have happened? If someone managed to break the shift fork and thats what led to this, welding it seems extreme because I cant see why it would want to pop out in the first place, I guess unless it was extremely sloppy already?

- How do I determine if I have a case-o-matic/torque converter? I either have it, or have a clutch bathed in oil. Im not discounting that possibility. TractorData mentions something about being in direct drive disabling the torque converter as well, anyways I'm very confused here at the moment.

- I originally assumed I would be adding the purchase price of some forks onto this purchase, but now Im thinking thats not going that easily. The fork carriage measures closer to 21", and not the 20" that class 3 forks are sold. No taper top/bottom either. I didnt realize this was going to be a thing by this time period but, guess so. Seeing some pictures of some other rough terrain forklifts, Shaft mount forks seem common. That looks reasonable possible to home brew, or at least prep for the welder, lol. If my thoughts here are wrong and regular forks fit or easier solution available let me know. I find it odd this carriage seems to have a scribe line right at 20".

Thanks for any wisdom you can spare.

I do have have them fork for your 530 forklift in needed. my e mail is [email protected]