Case D hydraulic pump

[CasevsDeere]

I don't have a helper but I got a cherrypicker. I tried to unbolt the fan.but there was no way with both my wrists fused. And if I could get them out I don't know how I would get them back in. So I'm back.to.taking radiator out. My big problem now is the 2.bottom bolts. They won't budge with an impact.or a breaker bar with a 2 foot pipe extension extension. My buddy suggested I cut the bolts to get radiator out and work on the bolt remains after. I'm a bit nervous about that approach. Any opinions or suggestions?

Weld a nut to the bolts, the heat from welding should help shock the bolt loose, just got mine out using this method.

 

[CasevsDeere]

Good on both of you making progress! I don't remember doing anything special when I changed the fan belt on my DC but that was long ago, I did have the radiator off at the time so that may make it easier, it also seems to me that I had to take the fan off to install the alternator belt, but I'm not sure on that point any more.

Can confirm the fan has to come off to change the belt. Honestly when you say "remove the radiator to change the belts" it sounds like a major undertaking, but once you get the 2 long bolts loose, and if you have an extra set of hands and a loader/lift, its not a bad job.

 

[CasevsDeere]

well boys, it was a tough fight but I won. Radiator is out and setting on the floor. Fan blades are gonna need a little tuning but otherwise everything came along ok. Except still got those cut off bolts to deal with, but for now Im just gonna wallow in my victory, besides its beer thirty. and yes Mike radiator shop is in the future. Thanks again guys for all your guidance .

You will get there and you will win! I am glad there is someone else going through a D series radiator saga with me. I had 2 tore apart in the driveway getting ready for a tractor fun run. I pulled one apart to fix the belts and cracked the lower tank getting the drain pipe out. I got that one back together finally yesterday.

The other one needed a water pump, pulled it all down, put it back, and that is the one that the core popped in when I went to rod the tubes out, so I get to pull it back down, split the tanks, and replace the core, all before this Saturday!

Keep us updated on your progress!

 

[Mike Fitz]

Congratulations agin! giving yourself a high five now and then is a good thing! While you are here it would be a good time to get your alternator brackets and belt figured out, I made my own brackets and it took some looking to find the right belt, but I think there are kits to do this now so hopefully it's not a big deal.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Congratulations agin! giving yourself a high five now and then is a good thing! While you are here it would be a good time to get your alternator brackets and belt figured out, I made my own brackets and it took some looking to find the right belt, but I think there are kits to do this now so hopefully it's not a big deal.

yea with the radiator out it makes it a whole lot easier for a lot of things. I worked all day on the stupid thing and dont know if I got things right or not. the service manual was pretty vague. I welded nuts on the bolts I had to cut and got them out. It says remove the cap screws that hold the radiator to the radiator bracket. Im not sure where the radiator stops and the bracket begins. There are rows of 5/16 x 3/4" cap screws - top and bottom both sides. . I spent a lotta time getting them out and I dont know if I was supposed to or not. I dont know if thats what the manual ment Is the top casting part of the radiator, seems like a lotta weight to take to radiator shop. It talks about radiator shim, no idea what that is. Maybe I should start a new thread, not much of this is about hydraurlic pump lol

 

[CasevsDeere]

yea with the radiator out it makes it a whole lot easier for a lot of things. I worked all day on the stupid thing and dont know if I got things right or not. the service manual was pretty vague. I welded nuts on the bolts I had to cut and got them out. It says remove the cap screws that hold the radiator to the radiator bracket. Im not sure where the radiator stops and the bracket begins. There are rows of 5/16 x 3/4" cap screws - top and bottom both sides. . I spent a lotta time getting them out and I dont know if I was supposed to or not. I dont know if thats what the manual ment Is the top casting part of the radiator, seems like a lotta weight to take to radiator shop. It talks about radiator shim, no idea what that is. Maybe I should start a new thread, not much of this is about hydraurlic pump lol

There are 14 bolts in the bottom and 16 in the top. The extra 2 in the top are those flathead screws on the outer edge. I welded nuts to the top of mine to get them out. Once all of those are out everything should separate, make sure the little shroud piece at the top is removed, if not the sides wont come apart. I did not see any shims in either one that I have just had a part.

If you are trying to get the core out then this is what you needed to do. Honestly at this point you might be money ahead to just put a new core in if you have it all apart, $350 for the core and gaskets plus the ride, mine is supposed to be here today, ordered it Friday

Nut welded to flat head screw ( work it back and forth even if it only "squeaks" a little bit of movement and spray a lot. Took me about 35 minutes to get both of mine out without breaking them. You can also see the burnt paint where I was heating the portion where the threads are, heat is your friend here)

Top of the side piece, the circled hole is where that flat head screw threads into.

Top rad tank separated from the core

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Thanks, at least I know I didn't waste an afternoon getting them out. I got one of the top bolts out, other one rounded off, gotta deal with that on yet. I should have stuck to fixing cows and horses lol

 

[Mike Fitz]

It's amazing how job creep works! Put up with the pain and suffering now on a good job and you will have a tractor that will last as long as you care to use it! I did all of the things you are now doing to my DC almost thirty years ago and it is one of the most reliable machines I own.

 

[mEl]

Just guessing but I think the shims mentioned the 2 rubber pads that the radiator sits down on at the bottom, always knew they were there but never knew they were called shims. With all the head and block work and no head gasket my 39 sits on without the pads, shims or whatever you choose to call them.

 

[CasevsDeere]

Just guessing but I think the shims mentioned the 2 rubber pads that the radiator sits down on at the bottom, always knew they were there but never knew they were called shims. With all the head and block work and no head gasket my 39 sits on without the pads, shims or whatever you choose to call them.

You must be right, I used some pieces of old inner tube just to give it some cushion, but it would probably have been fine with out.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

There are 14 bolts in the bottom and 16 in the top. The extra 2 in the top are those flathead screws on the outer edge. I welded nuts to the top of mine to get them out. Once all of those are out everything should separate, make sure the little shroud piece at the top is removed, if not the sides wont come apart. I did not see any shims in either one that I have just had a part.

If you are trying to get the core out then this is what you needed to do. Honestly at this point you might be money ahead to just put a new core in if you have it all apart, $350 for the core and gaskets plus the ride, mine is supposed to be here today, ordered it Friday

Nut welded to flat head screw ( work it back and forth even if it only "squeaks" a little bit of movement and spray a lot. Took me about 35 minutes to get both of mine out without breaking them. You can also see the burnt paint where I was heating the portion where the threads are, heat is your friend here)

View attachment 82648

Top of the side piece, the circled hole is where that flat head screw threads into.

View attachment 82649

Top rad tank separated from the core

View attachment 82650

Mine had hex head screws. One came.out the other was a nightmare, still not out. I drilled it and put one of the screw type extractor in. Then I put a breaker bar with a pipe helper and lot of heat on it and still no luck.then I put an impact driver on it and wouldn't budge. So all I could think of next is drill out the extractor hole. I'm about halfway in and just had to be walk away for a while and started on an alternator bracket. Other side is apart ok.

 

[CasevsDeere]

Mine had hex head screws. One came.out the other was a nightmare, still not out. I drilled it and put one of the screw type extractor in. Then I put a breaker bar with a pipe helper and lot of heat on it and still no luck.then I put an impact driver on it and wouldn't budge. So all I could think of next is drill out the extractor hole. I'm about halfway in and just had to be walk away for a while and started on an alternator bracket. Other side is apart ok.

You’re probably committed to drilling at this point. I will never use one of those screw extractors again on cast iron. I used one to try and remove the broken drain pipe out of dads ‘50 and it cracked the tank.

The good thing is you can up drill it and put a thread sert in it if the threads are too rough when yo get done.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Finally got my radiator apart. I could hardly believe how plugged up that core was, I dont think there was 20% of it open, plus there was"patches" on the bottom tank, not sure but I think its fiberglass. So no decision to make, a new core is mandatory. I dont know how it wasnt overheating worse than it was. I learned one thing (actually a lot of things)- the vinegar I used was 30% and anything it touched - tools,parts, everything turned to rust and didnt clean anything. Maybe the 10% would work better. I think the alternator brackets I made are gonna work ok so Im encouraged. Now I wish Id taken time to label all the hardware I took off lol. I want to again thank all the guys who took time to advise me on this project, Im sure I'll be needing more advise as this progresses along.

 

[CasevsDeere]

Finally got my radiator apart. I could hardly believe how plugged up that core was, I dont think there was 20% of it open, plus there was"patches" on the bottom tank, not sure but I think its fiberglass. So no decision to make, a new core is mandatory. I dont know how it wasnt overheating worse than it was. I learned one thing (actually a lot of things)- the vinegar I used was 30% and anything it touched - tools,parts, everything turned to rust and didnt clean anything. Maybe the 10% would work better. I think the alternator brackets I made are gonna work ok so Im encouraged. Now I wish Id taken time to label all the hardware I took off lol. I want to again thank all the guys who took time to advise me on this project, Im sure I'll be needing more advise as this progresses along.

That is exactly what was wrong with mine, I just took mine on a 40 mile ride Saturday and it was perfect on the temp the whole time with the new core. You may consider replacing the lower tank while it is all apart. I got a good used one sent to my door for $125.

Be glad to help you more if you need it.

 

[Mike Fitz]

125.00 is a great deal unless you or someone you know is good with cast iron repairs!

 

[Dr. CHIP]

I didn't even realize the lower tank came off! Duh! It was stuck on there really good, my jack knife got it separated. Any suggestions for a replacement?

 

[Mike Fitz]

Don Livingston at Rusty Acre would be a good place to start, 507-433-0073

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Don Livingston at Rusty Acre would be a good place to start, 507-433-0073

Thanks Mike

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Don Livingston at Rusty Acre would be a good place to start, 507-433-0073

I ground all the bodyfiller off and I don't see any holes or cracks so I'm gonna try it

 

[Dr. CHIP]

There are 14 bolts in the bottom and 16 in the top. The extra 2 in the top are those flathead screws on the outer edge. I welded nuts to the top of mine to get them out. Once all of those are out everything should separate, make sure the little shroud piece at the top is removed, if not the sides wont come apart. I did not see any shims in either one that I have just had a part.

If you are trying to get the core out then this is what you needed to do. Honestly at this point you might be money ahead to just put a new core in if you have it all apart, $350 for the core and gaskets plus the ride, mine is supposed to be here today, ordered it Friday

Nut welded to flat head screw ( work it back and forth even if it only "squeaks" a little bit of movement and spray a lot. Took me about 35 minutes to get both of mine out without breaking them. You can also see the burnt paint where I was heating the portion where the threads are, heat is your friend here)

View attachment 82648

Top of the side piece, the circled hole is where that flat head screw threads into.

View attachment 82649

Top rad tank separated from the core

View attachment 82650

What are the cap screws in the side.