Contemplating rear wheel weight removal Farmall A

[Tim Steele]

I need some advice. My Farmall A with a Woods L306A mower has served me well mowing close to 2 acres of grass all summer since I got it in 2016. It is starting to get a bit tired. I am having to get down in 1st gear on inclines it used to pull in 2nd. Is it worth the effort to remove the rear wheel weights to try and gain some power back until I can find the time and a good engine guy to rebuild the motor? It uses and leaks a little oil but nothing excessive. It runs perfect just down on power from 6 years ago when I bought it. Oil pressure drops some when hot and working hard but not enough to be a concern. I love the old tractor but am also considering looking to possibly upgrade to a Super A or whatever comes after that is it 100 or 140 that is next in line that will accept the L306A? Thanks in advance for any insight.

This post was edited by Tim Steele on 07/19/2022 at 10:16 pm.

 

[fastfarmall]

In my opinion, no it wont make a bit of difference,your better off getting the compression up !!!

 

[kshansen]

Well I'm not sure if removing the wheel weights would make much difference but might be worth a try.

All I know is My BN, which I believe is the same motor wise as an A, does not have any problems mowing with a Woods L306 in third gear. Now most of my land is relatively flat and the engine was rebuilt with a "big Bore" kit, but that was at least 25 years ago!

Also the type and length of the grass can make a major difference. My "lawn" is for the most part what was ten acres of a farm field at times corn and hay or just weeds before I bought it in the late 1970's or was it early 1980's?

 

[Brownie450]

You might want to check points & condenser &
plugs for wear on gap clearance.
Jim

 

[Dave BN]

I don't think removing wheel weights will make any difference other than
not having as deep a ruts in your lawn. Do what brownie says plus check
timing. Does it have the original magneto or has it been changed to a
distributor? If you need help setting timing just ask here but we need
to know what type of ignition you have, magneto or distributor. Hint,
the timing mark is on the flywheel so you need to remove the inspection
plate under the torque tube and dig the mouse nests out of there before
asking for help. Are you sure the engine has lost power or is the clutch
slipping?
Dave

 

[grandpa Love]

A good tune up would probably help....

 

[Tim Steele]

Thanks for all the replies. It has the magneto and a new set of plugs gapped to the spec. It starts immediately from cold with little or no choke and purrs like a kitten. The blades on the L306A are new. The yard is fairly steep in places as my house is built on top of a hill. Not a steep hill but a hill nonetheless. I have never been able to get up into 3rd gear mowing since I got it. I will investigate the timing and report back. I have a factory service manual. Thanks again! Oh and the clutch isn't slipping.

This post was edited by Tim Steele on 07/20/2022 at 06:58 am.

 

[kshansen]

Might also want to check valve adjustments and do a compression test.

Also might be worth checking to see that the governor is letting the carburetor open up 100%. If you don't have a manual I could scan and post a couple pages out of mine.

All I can say about you never being able to mow in 3rd gear is something is not right. Heck I could mow in 4th gear if grass is light but it's too bouncy and it does not cut as good and the low hanging tree branches hurt when the hit you in the face!

 

[fastfarmall]

well the way those tractors are geared, i always mow in 1st gear, thats plenty fast,for me anyway, the kids tried it in 2nd when they were kidsl at home. they learned too, 1st is plenty fast

 

[DeltaRed]

Removeing weights will not make any difference. If it is a truly as tired as you say,then an overhaul is needed. Try to make it last till fall when you are finished for the season.However,I would try a good
tuneup first because poor 'tuneing' can also affect the way it runs.Does it smoke,use oil? If not.most likely a tuneing issue.

 

[DelMN]

Do NOT remove rear wheel weights! They are different sizes/weights and removing them will cause a tippy effect!

 

[kshansen]

Just one question for the original poster. Any chance this "A" is actually a "AV" with the 36 inch rear wheels? Because in my book on the spec's page it shows a AV with the 36 inch rear wheels having the same speed in 2nd as all the other A,B, BN and the International A's have in 3rd gear.

As for mowing only in 1st gear unless I am dealing with over a foot tall heavy grass that would just seem to be wasting gas and wife would be way out running me on her zero turn that can mow at 7 mph!

 

[Tim Steele]

Thanks for all the replies. It does have 24 inch wheels. It does use some oil and leaks some. I have to add a pint about 3 times over the course of the summer. In addition today I discovered the manual lift was all the way down, one notch below where I usually run it. I felt pretty dumb then. I put it back in the correct notch which I have now marked with a sharpie and was able to mow through 1 foot tall Johnson grass in 2nd gear going up the hill. I have never checked the timing or valve adjustments as it has always started instantly and never misses or sputters. I know it is tired though as the oil pressure gets within an 1/8 inch or less of the low pressure mark after a couple hours of hard running. So my problem appears to be solved and I feel a bit foolish. Again thank you all for the help. This forum is the best!

 

[grandpa Love]

Wheel weights are the same on either side. The wheel center is usually different on each side on an A.......

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Sounds like you're a long ways off from needing an overhaul. Running the valves wouldn't hurt but it does not sound necessary either.

With these old engines as long as you have some oil pressure, you have enough oil pressure.

 

[Tim Steele]

I agree. Thank you all for the help.

 

[kshansen]

(quoted from post at 17:30:14 07/20/22) I discovered the manual lift was all the way down, one notch below where I usually run it. I felt pretty dumb then. I put it back in the correct notch which I have now marked with a sharpie and was able to mow through 1 foot tall Johnson grass in 2nd gear going up the hill.

Hate to sound dumb but what is this "manual lift"? I only know about the BN I have but the service manual for it also includes the A's B's and my BN but there is no mention of "manual lift".

Might you be referring to the exhaust powered "pneumatic lift"?

 

[Tim Steele]

The manual lift for the Woods L306A finishing mower. It is a big lever mounted to the side of the tractor that lifts the mower deck up and down. It has notches on a bar that sets the height of the mower deck via a chain attached to the mower deck that hooks to the end of the lever.



This post was edited by Tim Steele on 07/21/2022 at 01:37 pm.

 

[kshansen]

(quoted from post at 17:36:14 07/21/22) The manual lift for the Woods L306A finishing mower. It is a big lever mounted to the side of the tractor that lifts the mower deck up and down. It has notches on a bar that sets the height of the mower deck via a chain attached to the mower deck that hooks to the end of the lever.

OK, I mow with my deck riding on the skids and caster wheels. I do have a lift similar to that one that was part of I think the cultivators that came with the tractor but I never had need for them.

I can barely recall when my BN and mower deck looked that fresh and shinny!

Had to dig out some receipts, found one for when I bought the tractor in July of 1977 for $600.00. Then I bought the Woods mower in June of 1981 brand new for $1,034.69 For some reason I did not save receipts from when I did the ground-up rebuild on tractor. But I'm guessing it was around 1985 or so.