Counterweight Blue

johnofnewhaven

Well-known Member
The Ford 5000 that I have been repainting had calcium chloride in the tires. Couple weeks ago when I went out to my shop one of the valve steams gave out and shot the calcium chloride all over. I took it down to my tire guy today and got a new tube put in it and now they use counterweight blue instead of calcium chloride. It is a soy base and is non corrosive and non-toxic. I like that part. Don't know much about it but that's what they said they've been using for a while now. No I did not want to use windshield washer fluid. Just curious if anyone else is using counterweight blue.
 
Have used calcium in the past with little to no issues if everything is right. The other tractors have wheel weights. No nothing about the other options. Windshield washer fluid seem like it may freeze if youre really cold. Beet juice ? No clue. I like steel.
 
I just acquired a set of 6 rear wheel weights for my Ford 5000. I have a loader on it and even with the rear tires being loaded I still lose some traction with a bucket full of wet dirt or gravel. The rear wheel weights should cure that problem.
 
Using the laws of physics, a counterweight on the three point is more effective that wheel weights or fluid in the rear tires. In my mind a loader tractor should have MFWD for effectiveness. My memories of using an uncle's Oliver tricycle front end with a loader and virtually no rear end weights did not leave kind thoughts in my mind.
 
I agree a MFWD is far Superior for a loader compared to just rear wheel drive and I actually have one of those too. That old Ford 5000 handles the loader pretty well and can do a lot of work. I also use some ground engaging implements so I want the extra weight in the tires and on the rims. The loader on my 5000 is a quick attach and takes me about 10 minutes or less to take off so I can use the tractor for other things without having a loader on it.
 
A counterweight hung off the back is the most effective but it is also the most destructive to the tractor. There comes a point to where a smaller loader bucket or smaller bites is better than a bigger counterweight.

I just use water in my rear tires. For that rare instance where it gets cold enough to freeze I just drain the water out for that night.
 
Never heard of "Counterweight Blue." I've heard or "Rim Guard" aka beet juice, and have a few gallons of it in a pair of tires that were mounted tubeless to seal up any small leaks at the beads. Tire guy uses it like tire slime because it is thick and sticky. Seems to work.

As long as it's not a salt, it has to be easier on rims. It's probably far and away more expensive than calcium chloride, but if you're happy, does it really matter?

Everybody complains about calcium chloride, but they never sit down and think how long it's been in the tire. I had to change out a rim this summer because the valve stem had been seeping, apparently for a few years by the looks of things. and the rim was rotted around the valve stem hole. New tires were put on that tractor in 1987, and haven't been touched since, so it took 36 years for the rim to rot out.

Half of everyone here thinks you're asking about a barrel of concrete for some reason...
 
Never heard of Counterweight Blue before.

https://counterweightblue.com/

https://h3qb5c.a2cdn1.secureserver.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Counterweight-Blue-SDS-Carbellus.pdf

From the data sheet it is a mixture of Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Sodium Sulfate and Water. It freezes solid at minus 20F, minus 29C. Maybe it is only sold in the warmer climate zones.
 
The problem with rear weight attached to the 3pt is it takes up space when turning and maneuvering with it. And if in tight quarters makes a big difference, if not watching all the time you tend to bump things with it sticking out the back unlike loaded tires and wheel weights. Yes less weight make for better work hung out in back. I just don't like it there. Besides if you change the screw in sction of the stem every 4-6 years they will not be a bother and is cheaper in the long run than buying tubes and fixing rims all the time.
 
A rear mounted counter weight also blocks off the rear of the tractor for any PTO or drawbar work like grinding feed, hauling manure, pulling wagons or tillage.
 

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