Cub Cadet Vs. Kubota

[Anonymous-0]

If you had to pick between the Garden tractors.
And it is a tossup between the Kubota 20HP Kohler shaft drive engine GR series. And the Cub Cadet 2500 series Kohler 21HP shaft drive hydrostat which would you pick. (I am not talking about the cheap belt drive stuff at the Depot or Lowes) I would use either one for grass mowing and front blade work for snow and gravel. I am interested in opinions on quality, durability, longevity and price. The Cub website says the 2500 series machine is $3,500. I dont know what the Kubota price is. My feet cant take pushing a mower anymore, middle age is catching up with me. I have about 1/3 acre to mow, (not including weed wacking).
Opinions welcome, please dont bash the colors guys, I dont think Deere makes a shaft drive small tractor, if they do it is big $$$.
I went to a local lawn equipment place on Friday and they have the Husqvarna tractors---Cheap junk, All belt drive, cheap frame, 25HP Briggs...$1,800, too cheap. I have a friend that had a transmission go out on him with a Husqv. tractor 3 years ago. I would rather buy quality.
Before I went out and spent the money I want your 2cents.

 

[Anonymous-0]

For what its worth, Consumer Reports (May 2007 issue) has results of tests on push, riding and ZTR lawn mowers. I see no Kubota tested. Also, I have had my Troy-Bilt 46" 22 hp B&S intek tractor since 2001. The only problems I have had have been minor, I replaced the drive belts last fall, but I do tow a full sized hay wagon with it. Also both cotter keys holding the front wheels wore thru. I was very unhappy at the time after I bought it to find out it is one of the MTD family like Cub Cadet, White, the one Tractor Supply sells, and others. I would have to say overall it has been dead reliable cutting 2 hilly bumpy acres in Gregory, MI..... John L PS I did find I could buy the oil filter cheaper at the John Deere dealer than anywhere else.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I bought a shaft drive 3204 cub cadet a few years ago and other than a few minor breakage's its working fine.20 HP engine with hydrostatic drive.down side, at 150 hours recommended hydro oil change at $32.00 a gallon.I think the comparable kubota will cost you more.

 

[Anonymous-0]

John, you are in Gregory, I am up in Cohoctah, north of Howell. Are you getting any of the flooding? I have been looking for property in the Stockbridge area, any plus or minus on that area?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have a 2550 CC the cut quality is not what it should be and they do not offer a high lift blade to improve the cut. The two pedal drive is not worth anything any little bit of dirt in the plastic bushings where they run through the mounts and it does not return to neutral when you let off you have to hit the opposite direction for it to stop. I mow around five acres total so you may not have that problem. I have just under two hundred hours on mine and it is two years old and have not had any other problems with it.HTH

 

[Anonymous-0]

Only 1/3 an acre ? A good used LX series John Deere would be more than enough.
I would go with the Kubota as their common parts (maybe not belts) are alot cheaper than Cub Cadet.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well, whatever, but hydrostatic and small tractors are the cat's meow. Once you have some experience with a good one, you'll never want to look back!

 

[Anonymous-0]

Do your self a favor and look at an Ingersoll garden tractor if you want tough.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've got an acre of grass to cut at my "empire"..I've had the Deere , Cub Cadet , and Wheel Horse.. in a matter of 20 years..The last one I bought was an Encore Z-42 16 hp zero turn mower..So far the only thing that needed to be repaired was the idler for the mower deck and 2 belts..Thats not bad for a 10 year old machine..I can criss-cross mow in the same time it took to mow with conventional mower/tractor....Minimal weed wacking and fast...another 2 cents worth from NE Ohio

 

[Anonymous-0]

Gee, I've got a commercial Gravely 50" ProMaster Z-turn that runs off hydraulic motors, but the hydraulics are belt driven, and I have a commercial Gravely 48" walk-behind that is all beld and gear driven.

I don't think belt vs. shaft driven have anything directly to do with the quality of the mahine. I'm sure you could find shaft driven crap.

If your main goal is to mow your lawn quickly, efficiently and easily, I'd recommend a 36" or so walk-behind with a sulky. If you also want something to pull a yard trailer with, Z-turn mowers work great (just don't Z-turn with a trailer . If you are looking for an expensive toy (which I can relate too too), get a lawn tractor and don't forget the front loader!

 

[Anonymous-0]

I only wish to bring to light information that may not be known.Most of the MTD built Cub Cadet shaft drive models are not apple to apple comparison of shaft drive in competing brands shaft drives. Cub uses a hollow tube of small diameter and minimal wall thickness and flanged ends with a rubber or composite connector. In my twenty years of servicing L&G product these are overlooked quite often and should be a routine maintenance item.Competitors use a true driveshaft with greaseable u-joints and slips shafts. If you fail to grease the true driveshaft you will have one heck of a repair bill on some models as a complete shaft is the only recourse. At least on the Cub it is relatively inexpenisve to replace couplers.I have seen many belt drive machines outperform shaft drive machines.However if belts are in wet or very dusty conditions I would opt for shaft drive. Good luck to you

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've got some of the older CC 123, 122, 125 - good heavy duty garden tractors for their time. A little low on the HP side but great for pulling. plowing, cultivator, snow plow, etc. had cast iron transmissions simular to a farmall cub - basically a little tractor.

I also have a Kubota BX2200 again a little tractor -- it's hard to beat and never had a problem. Turn the key and it starts up - hold the glow plug for a little while on those zero degree days - never a problem starting. Loader, mower, tiller, etc plenty of power and tough as nails.

Now for the new stuff. I don't think your not matching apples to apples. The kubota is a heaver duty maching and matches up to the 3000 series. AWD is a nice feature if your going to use a front blade. I'm Not too sure I like the Alumin front axle at least that's what the picture looks like. I also wonder about the new steering - all sounds really good but we'll know in a few years how this GT holds up.

The CC is proven and a good tractor - not as tough as the old ones I have but will mow a lot better. You need to look at the 3000 series to match up against the Kubota. AWD on the kubota is tough to beat i just questiont the front axle - cast iron would be better.

Shaft drive is the way to go - The CC or Kubota will work fine. Shaft drive to the mower deck is also a good feature. Shaft drive is usally found on Higher end or heaver duty machines. That hollow tube on the cc is really tough and the rubber mounts tough. it's also been around for a long time so all the kinks have been worked out long ago. Ask questions on the different forums about the CC's drive system.

If the price is the same Kubota over CC as the kubota is more. If the Kubota price is the same as the 3000 series CC it's a tough call - both great brands.

If you'r just mowing I'd look at one of the zero turn's as they will be a lot faster at cutting grass.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I just had a B&S twin throw a rod on my husqvarna,149 hours,the oil wasn't even dirty when I pulled it down.Sad.Does anyone know if I can fit a Kohler or a Kawasaki in it.It's a YTH 2148.
As to the question,the Kubota is more of a commercial tractor and cost a lot more.