D15 cold starting

[Shawnba67]

So last year my tired old d15 would fire up and run every time I asked it to did not matter how cold. This year I had to rebuild it
new pistons liners and had the valves ground. And this morning at about 29 degrees it took a half hour to get this ole girl up and
going. When it was warmer I had just been pulling the throttle up to about were 800rpm is and she'd fire right up. I did just go
through the carb adjust again and ended up at just over one turn on the idle and 2 5/8s on the main.It will burp black smoke as the
rpms come up if I do a quick throttle snap. I do depend on this tractor for farm use and would appreciate any advice you guys have
on getting it more cold friendly.

 

[old]

Black smoke say is has a rich mixture which could be a problem with the air cleaner needing to be serviced or you choked it to much of a sticking float

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 11:18:16 12/08/21) So last year my tired old d15 would fire up and run every time I asked it to did not matter how cold. This year I had to rebuild it
new pistons liners and had the valves ground. And this morning at about 29 degrees it took a half hour to get this ole girl up and
going. When it was warmer I had just been pulling the throttle up to about were 800rpm is and she'd fire right up. I did just go
through the carb adjust again and ended up at just over one turn on the idle and 2 5/8s on the main.It will burp black smoke as the
rpms come up if I do a quick throttle snap. I do depend on this tractor for farm use and would appreciate any advice you guys have
on getting it more cold friendly.

You ran it this summer after the rebuild by the sounds. Have you rechecked the valve lash, point gap and timing (with a light as described in the manual) since the rebuild? Check to see that the manifold bolts are tight. Things may have changed a bit as they got seated in.

 

[Nordic]

This may not be your problem but I'll just share what my experience has been for several years. I have 5 old Allis tractors that I use for different tasks. I don't put a lot of hours on any one of them but I've had the same thing with at least two different tractors. We have really hot summers where I live and cold winters. If my B or WD sit around a little too long in the heat of summer with the same gas in the tank since spring or early summer, by the time the weather turns 39 F (+4 C) or colder they will absolutely not start. Due to summer heat some of the essential aspects for good cold starts have evaporated out of the gas. When this first happened I was in disbelief, but now that it has happened several times I'm convinced by the evidence. With the B last time I thought it must have no spark. It had started and run fine just a few days before on a slightly warmer day but now the temp. was just below 39 F. I drained the tank and the carb, put in fresh gas and had immediate start up. I keep the drained gas and once summer comes again I put it back in the tank and have normal starting.
I wouldn't worry about a bit of black smoke if it's only on quick acceleration. I have found that if I lean the 'main screw' to where no smoke shows on quick 'up-throttle', they tend to fumble instead of making instant follow through response.

 

[Shawnba67]

So today I tore the dist cap off and checked the points, they had opened up a smidge and had a burnt spot so i sanded them clean and readjusted. This seemed to make a noticable difference in the idle, and possibly anecdotal but my black smoke on acceleration is greatly reduced. Hopefully my guy at Napa can source me a new set of breaker points and I believe If I can get one cheaply I will replace the coil too. Is there a much prefered brand for spark plugs? The kit I bought came with autolites and I have always hated autolite. If anyone knows the napa nbumbers for points and a coil that will work Id appreciate it.

 

[old]

I've switched to using NGK plugs. The WD45 I have I put in NGK3112 and they have not fouled out in years where as auto lite would foul in less then 6 months

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 15:02:33 12/09/21) So today I tore the dist cap off and checked the points, they had opened up a smidge and had a burnt spot so i sanded them clean and readjusted. This seemed to make a noticable difference in the idle, and possibly anecdotal but my black smoke on acceleration is greatly reduced. Hopefully my guy at Napa can source me a new set of breaker points and I believe If I can get one cheaply I will replace the coil too. Is there a much prefered brand for spark plugs? The kit I bought came with autolites and I have always hated autolite. If anyone knows the napa nbumbers for points and a coil that will work Id appreciate it.

Here is what I have for my D14, I believe your D15 uses the same components. These are Standard Motor Products numbers, which NAPA can cross.

These part numbers Standard Motor Products. Standard makes the Blue Streak line. SMP has two levels now on a number of parts. Part numbers with a "T" suffix are lower price trade options - stay with the top line ones if available.

Points: DR2227P
Condenser: DR60
Rotor: DR321
Distributor Cap: DR405
Ballast resistor for use with a 6-volt coil: RU4

12 volt coils, no external resistor required (do not use ballast resistors or resistor wire in the primary wiring harness with these coils)
Standard part number: UC15
NAPA part number: IC14SB.

Standard supplies the Echlin parts to NAPA.

 

[Shawnba67]

I found what I thought was a good AC number for the points of 1855720 my local napa crossed these to a CS763P. The napa ones look quality. Tractor runs quite a bit better now the old points were cooked. It did start at 30 degrees this morning with no issue so hopefully I have it sorted out!