I would use a pasture harrow early in the spring, after every cutting and several passes in the fall before grass growth. Scratches the surface for better water penetration and also fertilizer incorporation. It can be dragged either way, one more aggressive. The mat flexes and is self clearing. Can't imagine a spike tooth doing much other than loading up with dry grass. If it needed reseeded we ran a springtooth then regular double disk drill after fall rains to re-seed....JamesI have a 10 acre field planted with perrenial rye and red clover that i cut for hay. Pretty productive and well established. Despite my best efforts (almost daily trapping) gophers have made it rough. Some of the 'turf' coverge is solid with few gaps- in other places more patchy. Any thoughts on spring v.spike tooth harrow to try and even it out? Or something else?
Thanks-makes senseI would use a pasture harrow early in the spring, after every cutting and several passes in the fall before grass growth. Scratches the surface for better water penetration and also fertilizer incorporation. It can be dragged either way, one more aggressive. The mat flexes and is self clearing. Can't imagine a spike tooth doing much other than loading up with dry grass. If it needed reseeded we ran a springtooth then regular double disk drill after fall rains to re-seed....James
Pulling a spring tooth harrow across established sod just stretches the teeth out. It's not meant for that. It's meant for use on plowed ground.I have a 10 acre field planted with perrenial rye and red clover that i cut for hay. Pretty productive and well established. Despite my best efforts (almost daily trapping) gophers have made it rough. Some of the 'turf' coverge is solid with few gaps- in other places more patchy. Any thoughts on spring v.spike tooth harrow to try and even it out? Or something else?
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