Distributor cap/rotor 2007 GMC 6 cylinder

[Geo-TH,In]

Usually I get 2 years out of a distributor cap/rotor .
My last distributor cap lasted 3 years.
No warning. Usually it shorts out after I've driven to town, 3 miles. And it was a damp day today.
Bought the truck new in 2007.

Thank God, I have AAA.

I think for my 75th birthday in 2 years, I'll replace the distributor.
The OEM distributor only lasted 2 years too.
I think the rotor shorted out..Looks like the spark jumped through the insulation.

I'm getting toooooooo old twist wrenches and toooooooo much arthritis.

I would buy another truck in a heartbeat if GMC made the low classic body style again. 2007 was the last year for the classic.. May have been the last year for the distributor and rotor.

A year ago the truck died and HoBo recommended I replace the coil. It was bad. The same time of the year the coil died.

I wish I knew a mechanic that could convert this engine to a distributor less ignition.. The engine only has 120k on it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Those aftermarket cap malfunctions are common I use only OEM AC Delco caps and rotors. When I replace a distributor the new aftermarket cap and rotor are replace with a AC Delco set. I have a box full of those new crappy caps why I save'em I dunno.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

How long do the Delco's last?
My OEM lasted 2 years.
Can you convert mine to distributor less?

 

[Steve@Advance]

What wires do you have on it? And what is the plug gap?

If it has carbon wires, a set of spiral core wires will have less resistance.

And a premium set of iridium plugs with a .045 gap will also reduce the energy required to jump the gap.

The problems with coils shorting, rotors burning through, caps shorting, are all aggravated by the very hot spark the coil makes, looking for a place to go to ground. If it finds an easier path than through the plug gap, it will eventually burn a carbon trail and take that route.

This may not all be technically correct but that's what I've observed, and it won't be a fix all happily ever after story, but it will make it less troublesome.

Another problem may be rain water getting under the back of the hood and dripping on the distributor, or opening the hood when it's wet on top, and dripping on the distributor. If this is a possibility, I know you are quite resourceful at problem solving, maybe a plastic rain shield of some type?

 

[504]

I have had lots of trouble with my 97 5.7 eating caps. I talked to two guys that make a living turning wrenches,both said a cap may last one hour or ten years. Both said all caps are junk for the GMs and to keep a spare in the tool box. BTW, I have replaced the distributor twice and it has not helped.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I am not having failures with oem caps. Those engines are not as common as they use to be all the ones I have worked on a OEM cap took care of the issue.

A common problem is the screws that retain the cap strip out I don't know that its a contributor to the issue. I don't know of a fix for that other than replace the complete distributor. I have tried a repair plate from Dorman I am not gonna fight it : )

Maybe Steve's on to sum'N maybe one of the heavy Chebby gurus will reply. NO I am not converting it life's to short to remake a reliable system.





I thought every chebby truck should come with a belly pad to complement the tool tray they put on top of the underhold fuse box. Some have a open space uou can put a ammo can full of tools in. Ell they even made it possible to open the hood straight up so you will have better light and no need to take the hood off to remove the engine.

Just encase you have to pray to it a keen pad : )

I have a corner in a tool box dedicated to chebby hood holding brackets. Thank you chebby for making it possible to raise the hood vertical with out taking it off.

Whut wuz the complaint...

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Do you know anyone who can convert my ignition to distributor less?

Everyone tells me the flat cap is a PIA.

 

[hd6gtom]

If you have a 4.3, buy the best 1 NAPA has. I used to buy caps from O'Reillys. Got 6 months at most out of them. Went to NAPA those are still running after 2+ years.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Steve,
I feel the coil voltage is too high.
When I lose spark, it's all the sudden making me feel the rotor shorts out. The rotor also shows signs the insulation is breaking down. One time I was going about 45 mph when I lost the ignition. It was as if someone turned the key off.
What plug can I use to reduce the voltage?
Or can I use a smaller plug gap to reduce the voltage?

 

[Sprint 6]

All it needs is the distributor made adjustable and the cam position retard set to near zero. The CMP retard is adjustable on the 5.0, 5.7, 7.4, but it's fixed on the 4.3. V8's the spec is +/-5 degrees, but I've seen 4.3 engines be upwards of 16 degrees stock. What this means is the spark has to reach to the correct tower, wearing on ignition components. Making the distributor adjustable and setting the CMP retard to zero lines the rotor tip up with the correct cap tower, lowering required voltage. Had a customer in the same boat as you until I made this adjustment, the last cap I installed was still on it when it went to the crusher with 280K.

And I echo Hobo, OE or Napa Eichlin only, the rest are junk. Eichlin used to offer a heavy cap with brass towers, those lasted, but can't get them anymore.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Whut he said... My Napa dealer had a fleet of those trucks after a many cap failure he told me to get replacement caps from the local GM dealer.

Cam retard you will need a timing light and a scanner that has the function to put it in the mode needed to check. I spec a many young mechanics will say Whuts Dat : ) Very few even know about it are never check it.

All I have seen were + are - 2deg.

 

[caterpillar guy]

See what I mean about they don't run worth a da** just put a tongue in it and have the boss pull it home for a new pain in the. The reason for wagons. Out west it is not uncommon to see tongues on pickup fronts for towing behind equipment. So why not for dragging home.