Domestic water pump volume control

[olgentdc]

Some of You fellas know your way around water pumps and their troubles ,,. I need advice Please . our ancient F.E.Meyers piston pump has been cycling way too often ,,. Years ago , I installed a modern round diaphram volume control on the tank when the old style float on a stick failed ... I have drained the tank overnite , and removed the volume control line , tried blowing air thru the line into the pump side like i used to mom and dads jet pump ,, but could not get much thru ,,. I must be missing a step somewhere because that is not working ,,. ANd It just Might be i need a new VCM.

 

[Mule Meat]

If it is a volume control on a tank. It should have a Schrader valve (tire valve) for adding air to the tank using a tire chuck/inflater to keep it from cycling so much.
Can't recall just how much air to add for it has been so long since I messed with one. If you have the manual. The information should be in it. I am sure someone will be a long to give you better information than I can.

 

[Watthour]

It's more than possible that there is a foot valve on the pump, so blowing through it backward may not do anything unless that valve has failed.

 

[GChief]

We had the same symptoms, pump running all the time. The bladder in the tank was ruptured.

Edit: I should have read the op after my first cup of coffee.

 

[wp6529]

Tanks with air volume controls have been pretty well obsolete for decades. Just replace the old tank with a modern bladder type tank and move on. If the pump is working fine no need to replace it.

 

[Dusty MI]

Tanks with air volume controls have been pretty well obsolete for decades. Just replace the old tank with a modern bladder type tank and move on. If the pump is working fine no need to replace it.

X-2

 

[showcrop]

I remember when I had one of those. I would be going after rust/minerals blocking the fittings at either end of the tube. You could use your torch cleaners. or you may have to start with a 1/16 drill bit.

 

[guido]

Some of You fellas know your way around water pumps and their troubles ,,. I need advice Please . our ancient F.E.Meyers piston pump has been cycling way too often ,,. Years ago , I installed a modern round diaphram volume control on the tank when the old style float on a stick failed ... I have drained the tank overnite , and removed the volume control line , tried blowing air thru the line into the pump side like i used to mom and dads jet pump ,, but could not get much thru ,,. I must be missing a step somewhere because that is not working ,,. ANd It just Might be i need a new VCM.

Tanks with air volume controls have been pretty well obsolete for decades. Just replace the old tank with a modern bladder type tank and move on. If the pump is working fine no need to replace it.

Yep! Put air in it at the volume control fitting. It will tell you if that's all it is


Try a couple of minutes first, add more of it works,

Guido.

 

[Indiana Ken]

I have a Air Volume Control on my tank/pump. The tank does not have a Schrader valve to charge the tank - never did. Some 15 years back I had trouble with short cycling and replaced the volume control. My volume control is a Brady and the Model number indicates the volume of your tank. For example I have a model AV-45 and a 45 gallon tank. If your air line is clogged I would replace the line/fittings as required.

 

[Russ from MN]

Wow, I didn't think anyone used piston pumps anymore! Like someone said, it could be your foot valve gone bad. The first thing I would do is air the tank up, drain as much water out as you can, and then add air anyplace in the system. At our seasonal cabin I add it to the outside Silcock, and don't worry about how much to add, if you add too much, it will just burp out when the pump cycles. The tank at the cabin is just an old water heater tank, no air volume control or bladder. The pressure control switch is set at about 40-60, so I air the tank up to 40 a couple of times a season and it works great.

 

[wp6529]

Wow, I didn't think anyone used piston pumps anymore! Like someone said, it could be your foot valve gone bad. The first thing I would do is air the tank up, drain as much water out as you can, and then add air anyplace in the system. At our seasonal cabin I add it to the outside Silcock, and don't worry about how much to add, if you add too much, it will just burp out when the pump cycles. The tank at the cabin is just an old water heater tank, no air volume control or bladder. The pressure control switch is set at about 40-60, so I air the tank up to 40 a couple of times a season and it works great.

If the old pump works and is well maintained (oiled regularly) no reason to replace it, particularly since many of those are installed on old wells that are too small for a submersible pump installation. The old tank on the other hand should just be replaced, you can get a new bladder tank at the big box stores, TSC and many others for a few bills for a decent size one and be ahead by the time you figure your time and parts cost to try to fix the obsolete tank that is probably badly rusted inside and will develop pinhole leaks soon.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I had a bladder tank fail. Same symptoms. The tank pressure when empty needs to be 5 psi less than the cut-in pressure. If it's higher all the water will be forced out before the pump starts and you get pressure drops and sputters at the fixtures.