Farmall 544 Clutch

[RAMacGregor]

I recently got an old 544 up and running after engine rebuild and clutch replacement. It runs fine, and I tested a new 8' mower, PTO and T/A work perfectly. I initially left the Operators Platform off to check for leaks, and put it back on yesterday. The platform, by design, limits the travel of both the Clutch & Brake Pedals. The brakes are fine, but now the clutch no longer has any free play, and will not travel downward far enough to fully disengage the transmission. The problem is not with the "yoke" adjustment, and the way the platform is designed, it would be difficult to put it on wrong. I searched some older Posts, and found a similar problem where it was recommended to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate. I have not ever done that and am looking to get some input/thoughts from someone a little more familiar with this, or if there is something else wrong. Thanks!

 

[K-Mo]

Neighbor has 350 and I have 504 (utilities). Same issue. I see it as limited linkage travel and don't know that adjusting the fingers would help.

The limits are the up stop on the brake cover and the down on the foot rest. The most obvious way you increase travel would be to heat and bend the break pedal arm to bring the arm closer to the bottom of the foot rest to allow more travel. But, I don't plan on doing that. I don't really think everyone's pedal arm has bent over time. Grinding off the pedal stop at the brake cover end could provide a little more travel. It should work with the original design.
Hopefully someone will respond with the good resolve.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 02:59:01 06/06/20) I recently got an old 544 up and running after engine rebuild and clutch replacement. It runs fine, and I tested a new 8' mower, PTO and T/A work perfectly. I initially left the Operators Platform off to check for leaks, and put it back on yesterday. The platform, by design, limits the travel of both the Clutch & Brake Pedals. The brakes are fine, but now the clutch no longer has any free play, and will not travel downward far enough to fully disengage the transmission. The problem is not with the "yoke" adjustment, and the way the platform is designed, it would be difficult to put it on wrong. I searched some older Posts, and found a similar problem where it was recommended to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate. I have not ever done that and am looking to get some input/thoughts from someone a little more familiar with this, or if there is something else wrong. Thanks!

I assume the flywheel surface and pressure plate surface have been resurfaced and are known not to be warped?

If everything is as it should be with the clutch components it shouldn't take an extended range of pedal travel release the clutch.

For this to happen as designed fingers ALL need to be adjusted to exactly the same height (should be a factory "spec." in the shop manual).

If the lined clutch plate is not perfectly flat (warped) it will take more pedal travel to achieve full clutch release. Plates can get bent from getting rough splitting and/or rejoining a tractor, or can come "substandard" from a supplier.

Also, the style of the steel disc the friction plates are riveted to can vary by manufacturer, some are perfectly flat, some have a bit of a "twist" in the individual segments the discs rivet to to give a cushioning effect as the pressure plate clamps down on the lined plate. If you look at the plate from the edge you can see that, noticing the distance between the inner sides of the two lined plates. Lots of compressability there could be a cause of extended pedal travel to fully release the clutch.

To sum this up, I would assume the clutch worked properly when the tractor was new.

Since it does not work properly now I think the prime possible causes would be unevenly adjusted fingers, a warped lined plate, or a lined plate that differs in construction from the original.

 

[Janicholson]

Were it mine, I would cut the cab part that interferes with the travel. If that causes an air or sound leak, I would glue some carpet over the place to flex when the clutch is let out. Jim

 

[RAMacGregor]

The flywheel was resurfaced, the clutch and pressure plate were new; there is a procedure for "adjusting" the pressure plate when install is
done. It is not in the manual. I got the tracor cheap and it was not running, but I know from towing it in the yard, that the clutch was
working. I'm going to pull the linkage and inspection cover off today and see if I can find anything. If I remember correctly, it is not
possible to put the clutch in backwards, because it wont sit inside the pressure plate, so it seems very limited as to where the problems is;
assuming the parts were correct.

 

[RAMacGregor]

Yeah very doubtful anything is bent, they are solid forged. I have seen something that talks about using small bolts in the pressure plate to take pressure off "something" in the pressure plate to adjust it. Seems really odd; also the linkage is very simple; it can't go back together wrong. And I don't the throw-out bearing can be positioned wrong. I do not want to split this apart again!

 

[Janicholson]

Quoting you, not possible to put the clutch in backwards, because it wont sit inside the pressure plate. The disk will assemble with the spring side to the pressure plate. It intended to be that way. If you have it so the springs of the disk to the flywheel it is wrong, and will nto release. The flywheel bolts interfere with the springs, and lock up the assembly. !!!! Jim

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

This "adjustment procedure that was not in the manual..." What was it? What did you "adjust?"

I'd start there. Some mystery "adjustment procedure" that you blindly followed because it was on the Internet or someone told you it needed to be done.

There are sometimes three bolts in the pressure plate that hold it compressed to make installation easier. If those were still in the clutch would not engage. You'd let out the clutch and nothing would happen.

The platform is not your problem. If the clutch will not release with the platform on, it would not release with the platform off. If it did then the laws of physics are broken, because the platform has zero to do with the forward travel of the clutch pedal. Don't go cutting the platform.

It is likely one of three things, you put something together wrong, the "mystery adjustment" or the pressure plate fingers were not set to spec from factory.

 

[RAMacGregor]

I did not make any mystery adjustment, I was trying to get feedback to see if there was anything else to look at because in the pit of my stomach I knew that most likely the clutch
somehow went in backwards. I can split it in a couple hours, it's just stupid and shouldn't have happened.

 

[RAMacGregor]

That's what is confusing. It works fine, when the operators platform is not on, but the total up & down travel is increased at least 3' in both directions. No noise, no sound of "something" wrong. I have not pulled off the inspection cover yet, I don't know if there is enough room to slide the pressure plate back enough to see the clutch. Either way, something must be wrong inside. A wrong part(s)? I don't believe you can put the throw-out bearing in wrong. Just to make sure I understand you - were you agreeing that the clutch could not go together wrong? (And work at all)

 

[RAMacGregor]

3"

 

[RAMacGregor]

It has been a couple years since I put the clutch in (Been a long term project) and I don't remember exactly what it looks like, but I am pretty sure I do remember that it obviously could not go together wrong, probably what you are saying about the springs. How about a "wrong" throw-out bearing?

 

[Janicholson]

The action of a Pressure plate can differ from original to replacement. This leverage difference might be enough to prevent complete release. The restriction placed on pedal movement by the platform, might just make the action too short to do the job. Were it mine, I would probably take the pin out of the pedal arm , move the clevis upward where there is no hole. I would put a pair of vice grips on the shank of the pedal arm holding the clevis higher. Maybe 1/2" at a time, until it has the needed travel. This assumes you adjust the freeplay to 3/4 inch or so between the trials. Once the clutch works I would drill a hole in the arm and pin it in place. Jim's best guess, assuming the other issues are correct. I didn't know the tractor operated successfuly for you with the old clutch. Jim
Clutch linkage

 

[RAMacGregor]

"Something" is not correct. When the Platform is in place, the total amount of travel is half of what it is now. I can adjust the clevis out/forward more, which would allow the transmission to fully disengage, but with no free play, there is going to be constant pressure on the throw-out bearing. I have someone that's going to help me Saturday morning, at this point I'm just going to assume that one of the parts is wrong, and split the tractor. With the feedback I have received from several sources, the clutch would not work at all if it were in backwards, and, if you are familiar with the linkage between the clutch and T/A, something just seems off, although everything works.

 

[RAMacGregor]

Thanks for your thoughts on this, all the parts were new from th IH dealer, and although I don't specifically remember, I think we compared old with new when I got the parts
because they have a core charge. Engine slid back on no problem, concrete floor, pressure plate bolted on after assembly, no problem. I guess I am leaning back toward a problem
with the fingers, because something has to get a whole lot closer to the throw-out bearing,in order to get both free-play and disengagement. Not that I have a ton of experience
with this kind of work, but not a stranger to it either, but i am at a loss right now.

 

[Janicholson]

From the diagram I attached, you can see Keys holding the cross shaft 13, and part 3 fork could be wallowed out! Did you ever drive it with the platform on it ? Does the foot pedal arm come all the way back up and touch the platform? MAke sure what you are looking at from the pitside is correct before splitting !! Jim