Farmall BN problem today

[Jim Becker]

Still dealing with t his BN. Actually my wife is suggesting I look into replacing it with something else.

My problem with that is I'm not sure what I could get. As one of the main reasons for this BN is to power my six foot Woods mower deck. Not sure what I could get to replace that or power that mower with out some major fabricating to do it. Sure If I was able to find another BN I could just bolt it up but what is the chance I could find a BN near by in working condition? And if I could how much would that cost?

Another option is to find a good engine that will swap in. You might find another tractor with a good engine but not so good otherwise. It could be an A, B, or C, or any of several later models that were derived from those models.

 

[kshansen]

Another BN!! However, not sure what kind of area you’re mowing and maybe you hate “new fangled” machinery. For the most part a 4-5ft wide zero turn would cut circles around a 6ft Woods mower on a Farmall B.

Well we do have a Ferris 48 inch mower and we mow around 5 acres. But even if the Ferris does keep up or maybe out runs the Farmall/Woods loosing the Farmall does cut close to half the mowing capacity out of the picture.

The other problem is the Farmall can skid out a log for fire wood that the Ferris would need it to be cut into half a dozen or more sections to move it.

 

[kshansen]

Was not sure if there was a chance to somehow lift and hold lifters up from top, maybe a wire or thin piece of flat stock.

So I did pull the head, figured it also might get me a better look at things. No luck on the possibility from top but did give me a better look at the top of lifters. I managed to tap a piece of wood down on the top of one to get a measurement of the hole in the top. Turned out to be 3/8 inch. I did have about 20 inches of that. I taped it down in one of the lifters and it seems to hold pretty good. Now I just need to go to the hardware store and get enough to do all the lifters. Might be a couple days but I will let you know when I do.

 

[kshansen]

Well had a little luck today despite one problem with the dowel trick! Problem being I had one short piece of 3/8 dowel that was a light tap fit in a lifter. So yesterday I got to Lowes and bought a couple pieces of 3/8 dowel. Today when I tried them in them in the lifter they were too loose to hold the lifters up. Seems dowels are not made to exact spec's like the Farmall! After a little thinking I came up with the idea to put a staple with one leg in the middle of the dowel and the other on the out side. Now they were a light tape fit and I could pick the lifters up and snap on the cloths pins. Slide cam out and pressed off the gear. Just to be sure I then slid cam back in to be safe if one slipped out.

Now I guess I need to give JP Tractor a call and see what the damages will be for parts.

 

[kshansen]

Well made the call to JP Tractor and ordered the parts. Just over $300 plus shipping.

I think that was about what I paid for the whole tractor around 35 years ago, but back then $300 was a bit more than it is today!

 

[kshansen]

Well UPS delivered the parts today!

Other than the gasket set they are used parts but then the rest of the tractor is used parts. In a way I was worried they might be new parts that would have a problem running with my old ones.

Was glad to see the gasket set included the front seal, I had forgot to ask about that. Now I think I have everything to get this BN back working other than a lot of strength, so it will take some time.

Think the first thing will be to press the gear on the cam, just hope I don't forget the thrust washer! Was wondering if I should use a little lock tight, kind of surprised at the lack of any snap ring or other locking device. Guess I'm to used to big Cat, Detroit or Cummins diesels.

 

[kshansen]

Well this days work included pressing the cam gear on, installing the cam and governor drive gear both with timing marks lined up! Pulled dowels out of lifters.

Next steps will be to clean top of block and head, yea I decided to pull the head even if it was probably not really needed to do but I had new gasket set coming so figured a new head gasket would not hurt. The old one has been in there for something like 30 plus years!

Once head is back on next steps will be to set valves and install pan, front cover and set valves.

 

[Jordan Goodwin]

Love these progress updates! Make sure to copper coat that head gasket and get it right side up!

 

[kshansen]

Love these progress updates! Make sure to copper coat that head gasket and get it right side up!

I think I do still have a can of that, I'll check in the morning and see about some if I don't! Do you suggest spraying both sides of gasket and let it dry good before installing the head? Pretty sure that is how I have always used it.

As for the pulley it is just like the old one but at least the keyway is 95% good. It is like my old one in that it does slid on easy but at least it is very good fit. I don't think it will give me any trouble for a few years assuming I last that long!

 

[grandpa Love]

I think I do still have a can of that, I'll check in the morning and see about some if I don't! Do you suggest spraying both sides of gasket and let it dry good before installing the head? Pretty sure that is how I have always used it.

As for the pulley it is just like the old one but at least the keyway is 95% good. It is like my old one in that it does slid on easy but at least it is very good fit. I don't think it will give me any trouble for a few years assuming I last that long!

We have replaced dozens of head gaskets on offset Farmalls. We use Felpro gaskets and copper coat spray both sides,let it tack up a couple minutes and install. We always, always run it up to temperature and retorque the head bolts. Valve train has to come back off but that's not a big deal. We have never had an issue.

 

[kshansen]

Any strong preference on oil, guessing just about any 30 weight oils of today are as good or better than what was available back when this was new. Or would anyone prefer seeing 15W-40 or some such? Probably should have posted this yesterday as I have a doctors appointment just after noon and will probably hit the store for the copper coat and oil after that appt.

 

[560Dennis]

Suggest ,Did you redo oil pump ?check True flat bottom cover to seal ,new ihc .005 gasket ,new keys on gear drive shaft . Time and money very spent .

 

[kshansen]

Suggest ,Did you redo oil pump ?check True flat bottom cover to seal ,new ihc .005 gasket ,new keys on gear drive shaft . Time and money very spent .

Did not check it, guess I might give it a look before I do put the pan on. The oil pressure gauge stays about half way up most of the time other than after mowing for an hour or more on a hot day, then it does drop down a little.

 

[560Dennis]

Do not coat graphite head gaskets with sealer.
A proper prepared block and head surfaces do need sealer .
Check your head gasket tech service for proper insulation.

 

[kshansen]

Do not coat graphite head gaskets with sealer.
A proper prepared block and head surfaces do need sealer .
Check your head gasket tech service for proper insulation.

My head gasket is not a graphite gasket, it's what I would call an old style with two layers steel with a layer of "paper" between them.

Just another thing on oil, would any one see a problem with 20W-50 oil? I just happen to have three quarts left over from my Harley Sportster days.

 

[560Dennis]

My head gasket is not a graphite gasket, it's what I would call an old style with two layers steel with a layer of "paper" between them.

Just another thing on oil, would any one see a problem with 20W-50 oil? I just happen to have three quarts left over from my Harley Sportster days.

I would use what the operator manual says 30 sae wt .above 32 F . If you have worn keys in that oil pump you will shear them on cold morning with heavy oil and it’s a redo . Use the correct oil for all recommendations on temperature in the manual .
You need to check your oil pump before you start up that tractor it’s 75 year old got worn keys shaft gears ,warped aluminum cover ,failed gasket ,what I found .

 

[kshansen]

I would use what the operator manual says 30 sae wt .above 32 F . If you have worn keys in that oil pump you will shear them on cold morning with heavy oil and it’s a redo . Use the correct oil for all recommendations on temperature in the manual .
You need to check your oil pump before you start up that tractor it’s 75 year old got worn keys shaft gears ,warped aluminum cover ,failed gasket ,what I found .

Well the tractor is that old but it's "only" been about half that since it was rebuilt! I do agree that now would be the best time to inspect the oil pump.

 

[MM-TX]

Well the tractor is that old but it's "only" been about half that since it was rebuilt! I do agree that now would be the best time to inspect the oil pump.

Be aware a lot of people report in after market sets that gasket is too thick. The tolerance in that area affects pressure as well as flatness of the cover.

 

[560Dennis]

Be aware a lot of people report in after market sets that gasket is too thick. The tolerance in that area affects pressure as well as flatness of the cover.

I agree with ,you been though this with aftermarket oil pump gaskets . Good advice
I only use Ihc gaskets on that oil pump. I bought an aftermarket gasket and it was .01 to .012 thick ,I sent it back . Got the correct .005 thick gaskets from messicks ihc .

 

[kshansen]

Kind of odd that they actually used a gasket there anyhow. I mean with the pump in the oil pan what would be the problem of a drip or two. Worked on many diesels, Cat and Detroits and such over the years and don't recall any with internal oil pumps that had gaskets between the housings. Maybe in the piping to the block but not the major castings.