Farmall Cub Clutch

[slk]

Ok guys my Cub decided toady that it was not going to let me put it into gear. When I step on the clutch pedal it will not go in far enough to let me put the tractor into any gear. I can tell it is close to letting me but it will not. I put a new throw-out bearing in about 3 years ago and when I put the tractor back together the pedal was just not adjusted like it should have been but I decided to let it go, because I did not want to split the tractor again. It worked but I only had about 1" of pedal to disengage the clutch. Like the pedal went almost to the floor and the last 1" worked for about 3 years. Now if it is not something I can adjust through the hole on the bottom and I have to split the tractor again what is the best way to make sure it is right before it goes back together.

Thanks guys... I am not getting any younger

Steve

 

[gene bender]

You didnt say which yr. Some the adjustment is on the pedal. If you have a threaded rod you can see thru that opening i would be adjusted there. No need to split tractor.

 

[john *.?-!.* cub owner]

Steve, if you used an aftermarket TO bearing rather than an IH, thye do not come prelubed and it may have worn off before the lil had time to soak out of the grease you lubed it with and soaked through the graphite. If this is the case you may have enough bearing left to readjust, or you may have to split it, only a look through the inspection port will tell. If you do have to replace it check the new bearing. If the graphite is dry soak it over night in light weight oil, such as 10W or 10w30. Don't forget to grease it, and in this case you want cheap grease, the graphite is lubricated by the oil separating from the wax and wicking through the graphite. High temperature grease is designed to prevent the separating, and defeats the purpose of greasing.

 

[slk]

I looked in the inspection hole today and the bearing is still there in place and with no chunks out of it. With any luck maybe I can adjust the rod out some and make it work for a while longer. Will report back with any news.
Thanks
Steve

 

[slk]

Ok this is what is happening. Through the inspection hole I removed the pin that was through the yoke going to the T/O bearing holder. I can't turn the yoke, because there is not enough room to make any more revolutions. Can you turn the rod going to the yoke from that small hole? Worse case scenario I guess I could loosen the tube/bell housing bolts and separate the tractor about an inch or so and then I could turn the yoke.

Any suggestions are greatly welcome....

Thanks
Steve

 

[john *.?-!.* cub owner]

Agreed, those are a booger to adjust, probably one of Farmall's worst ideas ever. It has been a long time since I adjusted one, but I do remember the rod does not turn, you have to turn the clevis. It seems like if you remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the bracket together you can move stuff around enough to do it, or maybe even have to pull the pivot rod out the top. While you have that bolt out give the fitting several shots of grease. Did you check the finger height adjustment?

 

[khouse6]

what symptoms does a clutch disc plate have, which is put in backwards? what is the number for finger height adjustment?

 

[slk]

I did check it when I put the new pressure plate and clutch plate in 3 years ago. Now I did not think about taking that bolt out on the split ring that holds the T/O bearing. That might give me enough room to turn the yoke.

There is no adjustment on my pedal

Thanks
Steve