Flipping the rear wheels the other way

[FinallyFarming]

706

The rear wheels were previously removed and flipped backwards to make it narrower for storage.
Now I need to flip them back the normal way for stability.

I know HOW to do it, but I need a WAY to do it.

Anyone know a safe way to do this without a fork lift or another tractor?

Thanks

 

[rustred]

fluid or dry is the back saving deal. jack it up on blocking . remove rim , loosen and remove hub , turn it around and assemble. i used my engine lift to hold the hub on my 560.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Hello.
Not sure what you mean by "fluid or dry" ?

I have a 3 ton floor jack is about all I have on hand.

 

[Janicholson]

If a rear tire has ballast fluid in it it can weigh more than 1000 pounds. It can flatten your pancreas. If not, it is still heavy in the hundreds of pounds range. So an engine hoist or more (tractor loader for instance) is needed to avoid crushing ones self. Jim

 

[rustred]

Hello.
Not sure what you mean by "fluid or dry" ?

I have a 3 ton floor jack is about all I have on hand.

i take it tractors is new to you then. its basically a 2 man job anyhow just for the ease of things. i can manhandle them tires dry , but with fluid not a chance , thats where the front end loader comes in and i have swapped loaded tires around that way by myself. i am really safety conscience and take precautions so things dont go sideways. in your case u better get someone with experience to help you out, and with the equipment ,tires can fall , the tractor can fall . so having it properly blocked is the first step. never ever put youself in harms way!

 

[FinallyFarming]

OK. I'll get help.
Thanks

 

[Slow lane 49]

I have a gantry on wheels with a chain hoist. It would be perfect to pick up the tire, spin it, then reinstall. Mine is wide enough to back a truck or trailer under it. I use it on concrete. Hard to roll in dirt. Currently has a disc hanging on it.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Assuming your tractor has stock cast steel hubs and separate steel rims held on by 8 or 12 clamps,, there is no real "dish" to them. There is no need to remove the hubs at all.

Maybe the previous owner did remove the entire hub/rim/tire assemblies from the tractor, and swap them left to right to make it narrower, but they had another tractor, a forklift, or some other machine to do the heavy lifting.

Are the tires on "backwards?" That would be the only reason to remove the rims and tires from the hubs. Otherwise you can simply slide the hub/rim/tire assembly out on the axle to make the tractor wider.

If the tires are on backwards, it may be easier in your situation to remove the 8 or 12 clamps holding the rim to the cast hub, spinning the tire around, and remounting it. This way a couple of guys can do it without heavy equipment, you are only handling the tire and rim, and only have one side jacked up at a time. Work smarter, not harder.

 

[FinallyFarming]

I'm hopeful a friend with heavy equipment is going to give me a hand.
The Rims are on backwards

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you were to dish the casting outward then you could sipmly move just the tire and rim from the inner bevel to the outer bevel on the rim for the width adjustment. Though if set at 60 inch center of the tread width it would save space and still be stable while using. Even with a narrow front end. Al of our row crop tractors are set at that spacing and never get changed. I have entertained the idea of setting one tractor with some narrow tires so it would fit both 30 inch rows along with 15 inch rows for beans. This would widen the wheels out quite a bit. Verdict is not in yet. As for width you want a loader or chainfall for a hoist to keep things stable while switching things around. A 3 ton floor jack is a lot to small tonnage wise for using to lift the tractor . You would need to lift the majority of the rear end under the side of the drawbar to have it reach logically for lifting and now it has exceeded the lift capacity of the jack. then you need some blocks that set solid to put under the axle housing behind the tire.A pile of about 3 ft high to crib it up. Then either go to the other side or you have to turn the whole wheel /tire and rim around to put back on. If it has the clamp version of cast centers loosen them up and turn the whole thing easier than splitting them for this job. then do the other side. IF the centers have the wedge locking centers the rim is easier to take loose for this job. Alos if the wedges are moving to far into the center of the casting when tightened up they need to be replaced when off since they are cheaper than the whole cast center is. Yes they do wear some over time. They should be pretty close to even with the outside of the casting when tight if not then they are worn. they have a special plate to use for getting them loose.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

If you were to dish the casting outward then you could sipmly move just the tire and rim from the inner bevel to the outer bevel on the rim for the width adjustment. Though if set at 60 inch center of the tread width it would save space and still be stable while using. Even with a narrow front end. Al of our row crop tractors are set at that spacing and never get changed. I have entertained the idea of setting one tractor with some narrow tires so it would fit both 30 inch rows along with 15 inch rows for beans. This would widen the wheels out quite a bit. Verdict is not in yet. As for width you want a loader or chainfall for a hoist to keep things stable while switching things around. A 3 ton floor jack is a lot to small tonnage wise for using to lift the tractor . You would need to lift the majority of the rear end under the side of the drawbar to have it reach logically for lifting and now it has exceeded the lift capacity of the jack. then you need some blocks that set solid to put under the axle housing behind the tire.A pile of about 3 ft high to crib it up. Then either go to the other side or you have to turn the whole wheel /tire and rim around to put back on. If it has the clamp version of cast centers loosen them up and turn the whole thing easier than splitting them for this job. then do the other side. IF the centers have the wedge locking centers the rim is easier to take loose for this job. Alos if the wedges are moving to far into the center of the casting when tightened up they need to be replaced when off since they are cheaper than the whole cast center is. Yes they do wear some over time. They should be pretty close to even with the outside of the casting when tight if not then they are worn. they have a special plate to use for getting them loose.

Just to be clear here, 706 hubs do not have any "dish" to them. The "dish" is achieved by mounting the rims on the inner or outer bevel.

 

[Meangreen]

I've used a engine hoist for my M rear wheels with 2 weights attached to each one. Jack the rear end up with a high lift jack, make sure all wheels are blocked first, set on large heavy duty jack stands. Make sure it feels stable and begin loosening hubs and swapping wheels. Just watch where your feet are at all times and no I've never had a tractor tilt to the side with the one wheel still on on the jack stands.

 

[Weldon K]

Just to be clear here, 706 hubs do not have any "dish" to them. The "dish" is achieved by mounting the rims on the inner or outer bevel.

You are wrong. Anyone can look at the heavy cast wheel (hub) on IH tractors and see the concave ("dish"). Operators manual has a chart showing tread widths obtainable by using various rim and clamp positions with wheel ( hub) concave (dish) in or out. If I could get my new computer to order my printer, copier, scanner to scan a page from operators manual , I would post that page to provide proof of concave ( dish). Most IH tractors have the wheel center installed with concave out but an occasional one will be with concave in. It is easy to see the difference.

 

[FinallyFarming]

I've used a engine hoist for my M rear wheels with 2 weights attached to each one. Jack the rear end up with a high lift jack, make sure all wheels are blocked first, set on large heavy duty jack stands. Make sure it feels stable and begin loosening hubs and swapping wheels. Just watch where your feet are at all times and no I've never had a tractor tilt to the side with the one wheel still on on the jack stands.

Are you talking about one of these kinds of engine hoists?

 

[Meangreen]

Yes. I have a fabric lift strap that just wraps around the rim and tire and I lift it that way.

 

[ed12345]

You are wrong. Anyone can look at the heavy cast wheel (hub) on IH tractors and see the concave ("dish"). Operators manual has a chart showing tread widths obtainable by using various rim and clamp positions with wheel ( hub) concave (dish) in or out. If I could get my new computer to order my printer, copier, scanner to scan a page from operators manual , I would post that page to provide proof of concave ( dish). Most IH tractors have the wheel center installed with concave out but an occasional one will be with concave in. It is easy to see the difference.

Double check that

On the m through 686 the wheels could be dish in or dish out. For the large frame tractors I’m not so sure. The wedge lock on the 66 and newer series really need the wedge bolt facing outward to loosen or tighten up.

Never heard about it facing in (reverse dish). If it did it would be really hard to tighten up or loosen.

For the pre wedge lock it wouldn’t be an issue

 

[Weldon K]

Double check that

On the m through 686 the wheels could be dish in or dish out. For the large frame tractors I’m not so sure. The wedge lock on the 66 and newer series really need the wedge bolt facing outward to loosen or tighten up.

Never heard about it facing in (reverse dish). If it did it would be really hard to tighten up or loosen.

For the pre wedge lock it wouldn’t be an issue

All IH tractors have wheels that can be set concave (dished) in or out. Attached is a portion of a page from my 856 operator's manual clearly showing wheels being set concave in or out.
As to wedge lock equipped wheels, they can be set concave in or out just as any other wheel can be. When changing the concave direction of wedge lock wheels, the wedge assembly is removed from the wheel and reinstalled so the head of the wedge bolt is to the outside again. Really simple.