Ford 641 not starting

Inwo

Member
I have a 641 with a TSX 765 carb that was just rebuilt. I replaced the points, cap, rotor and condenser and I am getting good spark. I took off the tube to the air cleaner so I know I'm getting air and there is fuel. The tractor doesn't even want to try to start but it does tend to flood so bad that gas leaks out of the intake. I am guessing that either when changing the points I threw the timing out or the adjustment screws on the carb are out of adjustment. What are the proper starting adjustments for this particular carb? I read 1.5-2 turns out on the main adjustment screw (a) 1 turn out on idle(b) and 2 turns on the bottom screw(c), is this correct? Could I have messed up the timing when doing the points? Is my 6 volt system just being a pain?
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forget 'c'

2 turns out on the main and idle are basic starting places.

if it's not hitting at all.. but is flooding.. back up and check that you actually have spark.

all the air and fuel in the world will do you no good with no spark.

if you have spark, clean the fouled plugs with spray carb cleaner and then try starting with start fluid... if she hits on start fluid but won't run off the carb.. you have a fuel obstruction.

post back some details.

soundguy
 
Inwo,

I went through the same. Is the breaker point set correct? Is the firing order correct. What I did was process of elimination. If the electrical system checked out OK then I moved on to the fuel system and so forth. In my case it ended up being the rings and the cyclinder bores were badly worn and it would smoke alot when it did run. It did not hold compression at that point. If it was flooded, I would have to be patient for the excess to evaporate. If yours was running good before or at least pretty good then I would say i"t can"t something too serious causing it not to start.
 
I just got back from Napa with my new plugs and wires. I have a strong blue spark from the coil. Firing order is correct, as far as I can tell. I doublechecked by feeling for compression in the #1 cylinder and ensured that the rotor was still pointing toward the #1 plug hole on the cap as it was set when I changed the points. I used the starting fluid...still no start. I'm getting fuel spark and air, what else could it want? Is my 6v system just not spinning it fast enough?
 

Since it floods out of the intake and after I put in the new plugs there doesn't seem to be evidence of flooding (plugs still look pretty clean and dry) is there a chance something in the carb itself is seized up? If the float were stuck it would not get any fuel at all, correct? It is freshly rebuilt, only ran it once a few days ago with fresh gas, new fuel line, freshened fuel tank, would the float already be fouled?
 
Well, what fun awaited me in the barn this morning. Apparently the float was stuck open and the tank emptied on the ground. After I shut the barn door after the cow ran out and closed the shutoff I decided to double check the points setting. I removed the rotor and happened to look at the bottom of it. The new rotor didn't have a tab left on it so it wasn't spinning at all evidentially. So I put the old rotor on it and tried to give it a go. I spun it for a few seconds and noticed a clicking coming from the distributor side. My old chinese made rotor had split in 3. Very nice. I'm guessing the cap is actually the wrong one though it seems like it's the same part number for all the side mount distributors.
Could someone give me the 'correct' part numbers for the cap and rotor?
Also what is the part number for the brass float needle so I can put that on instead of the viton one that apparently sticks all the time?
 
Put the old parts back on, they are better quality than the junk sold now.A good mechanic finds the faulty part that is causing the problem.I could never afford to replace the entire ignition system when I had no spark.My tractor has been running on the same points, condenser,distributor cap,rotor and spark plugs for 23 years now.
 
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