Ford 9N - coil not delivering power through distributor

[JamesHorrell]

I bought a Ford 9N from a guy who had been halfway converted the tractor from 6v to 12v. I completed the process, but for some reason I am not getting a current from my resistor to my coil.

At one point, the coil was sparking as I placed it on the distributor and the tractor still did not start. The spark plugs were not being activated. I seem to have lost current somewhere at the coil and distributor. Although, like I said, I have stopped getting current at all to the coil. Something must be wonky or wrong...

Thanks for reading.

James

P.S. Does the resistor absolutely have to be attached to the tractor with bolts? Right now I have it hanging with some ties.
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[warbaby]

Bypass that floating resistor and put a hot wire directly from the battery or ignition switch to the coil. If you have spark now, you have a bad resistor, or a
break/bad connection in the wire from it to the coil. If you still have no spark, you have a bad coil, or dirty or bad points or condensor.

The resistor does not have to be bolted down- there is no electrical grounding needed for it to do its job. It might even benefit from a little extra heat-
shedding air flowing around it!

 

[Steve@Advance]

Assuming you have a test light or voltmeter...

Start testing from the coil back to the resistor and the ignition switch.
There would have originally been another resistor under the dash, be sure to
test it also.

Could be a bad resistor, bad connection, or a bad ignition switch. Very
common to have a bad switch on an open tractor.

Just be careful, do your testing quickly. Having the ignition on not running
is hard on the coil and points.

 

[old]

You can do a couple simple tests to see what is going on. Run a hot wire from the non ground side of the battery to the coil. If you have spark then your problem is from the coil back. If you still don't have spark the problem is the coil or something inside the distributor