Getting a 1219 going

[caboshvt]

Just picked up an early model 1219 mower for $800 and it needs a few things before it gets cutting.

First i need the knife drive belt. I found its supposed to be part number E46844. I ordered one online but it was too tight to get on, even with the adjustment loosened all the way. The number on the actual belt i received is P-E46844, is this correct or do i need one with a different letter in front?

Second main problem is most of the teeth are broken. Its the older style bar with the teeth riveted on. I got some replacement teeth but im having trouble figuring out what rivets to use. Does anyone have a part number?

Also wondering if i could just replace the whole knife bar with one out of the newer style 1219’s that have the bolt on teeth?

 

[Tx Jim]

E46844 is correct JD part #for knife drive belt. A&I part# is A-E46844 @ $30.77. One has to have correct guards to utilize bolt on sections. I don't remember ever seeing JD Mo-Co reel pipe teeth riveted on pipe. If I was going to utilize a sickle type Mo-Co I want stub guards on cutter-bar. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/search/pgId/27452 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/navigation/pgId/263335 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/navigation/pgId/278262

 

[caboshvt]

E46844 is correct JD part #for knife drive belt. A&I part# is A-E46844 @ $30.77. One has to have correct guards to utilize bolt on sections. I don't remember ever seeing JD Mo-Co reel pipe teeth riveted on pipe. If I was going to utilize a sickle type Mo-Co I want stub guards on cutter-bar. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/search/pgId/27452 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/navigation/pgId/263335 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73432/referrer/navigation/pgId/278262

Thanks for the reply. That must be the problem i had with the belt, i need the A- number not the P- that i was trying.

For the teeth though i guess im calling them the wrong thing, i meant the blades on the sickle bar not the finger things on the pickup reel

 

[gf in S.IL]

I used a 1219 for several years. Tx Jim is absolutely correct about using stub guards. You will need the high arch tops so you have clearance for bolt on knife sections. You may already know this, but when changing the knife sections, do not take all of the old ones off at once. The bar (they attach to) may twist without some sections on it. When changing all, I would change three, remove and change three more, until all were replaced.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks for the reply. That must be the problem i had with the belt, i need the A- number not the P- that i was trying.

For the teeth though i guess im calling them the wrong thing, i meant the blades on the sickle bar not the finger things on the pickup reel

It appears when you stated rivets you were referring to sickle section attaching rivets. A rivet tool causes replacement easier but not as easy as bolt on sections. There are several different aftermarket rivet tools also. One end of tool removes rivets & other end brads rivets

 

[Hayfarmer]

I used a 1219 for several years. Tx Jim is absolutely correct about using stub guards. You will need the high arch tops so you have clearance for bolt on knife sections. You may already know this, but when changing the knife sections, do not take all of the old ones off at once. The bar (they attach to) may twist without some sections on it. When changing all, I would change three, remove and change three more, until all were replaced.

I have JD1209, earlier version of 1219. I use bold on sections and stub guards with the later style JD adjustable tops, like used on bigger swather.

 

[caboshvt]

It appears when you stated rivets you were referring to sickle section attaching rivets. A rivet tool causes replacement easier but not as easy as bolt on sections. There are several different aftermarket rivet tools also. One end of tool removes rivets & other end brads rivets

Oh nice that tool looks handy i’ll def take a look at them. Any chance you know what rivets i will need to use to attach the new blades?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I bought a 1207 that was pretty beat up. I was going to replace a few sections but the bolts in the kit were too long to clear the hold downs. I just got a new knife from a dealer. Cost wasn't awful.

 

[Tx Jim]

Oh nice that tool looks handy i’ll def take a look at them. Any chance you know what rivets i will need to use to attach the new blades?

JD part # for rivets H62350 & H30175.

 

[spacechem]

Thanks for the reply. That must be the problem i had with the belt, i need the A- number not the P- that i was trying.

For the teeth though i guess im calling them the wrong thing, i meant the blades on the sickle bar not the finger things on the pickup reel

You're confused about the belt part number. There is only one number- E46844. Any letter before or after that is only a manufacturing/distribution reference.

I don't know why you are having trouble getting it installed. You didn't mention where you got it. If not from Deere, it's possible the 'will fit' is more of a 'not quite fit'. Maybe a tad wider or shorter than the original. Suggest you get one from John Deere. Maybe more expensive (maybe not) but Deere belts have earned a reputation for long life.

Might also be worth checking the casting numbers on the pulleys to make sure some PO hasn't changed them for some not-so-good reason.

 

[Tx Jim]

Spacechem
JD part numbers such as E46844 when listed on A&I parts site which is owned by JD list JD part #s are identified with a "A" in front of part number such as A-E46844. Photo below was copied & pasted from JD's parts site.

 

[spacechem]

Spacechem
JD part numbers such as E46844 when listed on A&I parts site which is owned by JD list JD part #s are identified with a "A" in front of part number such as A-E46844. Photo below was copied & pasted from JD's parts site.

View attachment 71524

Exactly as I said- The letter A before the part number is merely a marker to signify this belt is now marketed through A & I. There should be no difference between a 'P' and an 'A' before the part number in the fitment of this belt.

The installation difficulty reported by the OP suggests that either A) the belt he bought online is not an exact replacement or B) one or both of the pulleys have been somehow replaced with non-standard parts or C) he has made some error in his procedure, which I doubt.

 

[caboshvt]

Alright got the belts, blades, and teeth replaced and shes all greased up, just needs some fresh oil now. What oil should i use in the gear box and wobble box? 80w90 im assuming?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Alright got the belts, blades, and teeth replaced and shes all greased up, just needs some fresh oil now. What oil should i use in the gear box and wobble box? 80w90 im assuming?

85W-140 is what my 1207 calls for. Fill to the pipe plug on the roll drive case and that gets the angle drive housing too. Should be a decal on the wobbler indicating the level.

 

[caboshvt]

Alrighty got the right oil and filled her up. But its all back out now because these 2 seals are shot. Anyone know the torques for the gear bolts on both these shafts? Also the belt pulley bolt?

And im sure this information would all be in the manual so does anyone know a good place i could download one?

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I had the case apart for the same reasons. If you take the two roll drive gears out they have two tapered roller bearings on the short shaft. The bearings are a matched set with an internal snap ring between the cups and a spacer ring between the cones on the shafts. KEEP THEM TOGETHER. Didn't have a menual and didn't know this going in. I thought the rings on the shafts were just there to keep the bearings in place for assembly. It looked like a round wire ring with a gap so I let them drop. I took the gears out on the machine. Later trying to reassemble I was looking for a torque spec. I called a dealer and got the explanation so I retrieved the rings but I'd mixed them up by that time. Spent a few hours getting them matched up again. Some kind soul on YT sent me the pdf of a service manual. I can email it to you. My wobbler seal was shot too. I just replaced all of them and one bearing in the angle drive. And made a new rubber vibe coupling for the pulley.

 

[caboshvt]

I had the case apart for the same reasons. If you take the two roll drive gears out they have two tapered roller bearings on the short shaft. The bearings are a matched set with an internal snap ring between the cups and a spacer ring between the cones on the shafts. KEEP THEM TOGETHER. Didn't have a menual and didn't know this going in. I thought the rings on the shafts were just there to keep the bearings in place for assembly. It looked like a round wire ring with a gap so I let them drop. I took the gears out on the machine. Later trying to reassemble I was looking for a torque spec. I called a dealer and got the explanation so I retrieved the rings but I'd mixed them up by that time. Spent a few hours getting them matched up again. Some kind soul on YT sent me the pdf of a service manual. I can email it to you. My wobbler seal was shot too. I just replaced all of them and one bearing in the angle drive. And made a new rubber vibe coupling for the pulley.

I was careful to keep things in order. I found a good parts diagram online that shows the 2 bearings and c clip rings all as one assembly basically.

Got the rear roll drive shaft out and i just have to get a good puller to get the end bearing off to swap the seals and that should be good.

Right now im trying to get the angle drive apart to do the seal behind the vibe coupling, but i cant get the gear off. Looking at the parts diagram it just looks like the bolt and washer hold the gear on but is there anything else i missed? Prob just gotta put a little heat to it or something

 

[Roger in Iowa]

I was careful to keep things in order. I found a good parts diagram online that shows the 2 bearings and c clip rings all as one assembly basically.

Got the rear roll drive shaft out and i just have to get a good puller to get the end bearing off to swap the seals and that should be good.

Right now im trying to get the angle drive apart to do the seal behind the vibe coupling, but i cant get the gear off. Looking at the parts diagram it just looks like the bolt and washer hold the gear on but is there anything else i missed? Prob just gotta put a little heat to it or something

That picture brings back memories! When I had started at Ottumwa works in 1973 we had to replace the input shaft on all new 1209s.
I traveled some in USA and Canada. Got so good at it two people could do two machines less than one hour.
Took me about an hour and a half to do one. Included replacing input seal, draining and refilling oil. Had to set rolling torque and slip clutch springs too. Had wedges to hold knife drive sheave and shaft therefore did not have to replace that seal.
.
.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I was careful to keep things in order. I found a good parts diagram online that shows the 2 bearings and c clip rings all as one assembly basically.

Got the rear roll drive shaft out and i just have to get a good puller to get the end bearing off to swap the seals and that should be good.

Right now im trying to get the angle drive apart to do the seal behind the vibe coupling, but i cant get the gear off. Looking at the parts diagram it just looks like the bolt and washer hold the gear on but is there anything else i missed? Prob just gotta put a little heat to it or something

Thinking back, it's probably on a tapered spline. I couldn't get mine loose either. Had to rent a very large puller. Is your coupling OK? Mine was cracked in several pieces and oil-soaked.

 

[RogerinIowa]

Thinking back, it's probably on a tapered spline. I couldn't get mine loose either. Had to rent a very large puller. Is your coupling OK? Mine was cracked in several pieces and oil-soaked.

Also need loctite on bolt holding gear.