Gleaner E/Allis engine parts expert needed

[docmirror]

I'm digging in to my Allis model D grader. I have sourced a Gleaner E engine, which is an Allis engine, but there are certain differences. I would like to get a engine rebuild kit, but if someone knows the journal sizes for the Gleaner crank, and the right "Allis" engine kit to get that would be great. The bolts into the gear cover are larger than a WD engine, and the head has some differences in the water ports.

I can take it apart and measure, but if anyone has the Gleaner knowledge I can order the right kit, either WD45, or early D17 and have it ready.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

I'm digging in to my Allis model D grader. I have sourced a Gleaner E engine, which is an Allis engine, but there are certain differences. I would like to get a engine rebuild kit, but if someone knows the journal sizes for the Gleaner crank, and the right "Allis" engine kit to get that would be great. The bolts into the gear cover are larger than a WD engine, and the head has some differences in the water ports.

I can take it apart and measure, but if anyone has the Gleaner knowledge I can order the right kit, either WD45, or early D17 and have it ready.

I can't answer your specifics. But I can tell you a Gleaner E engine is a D17 engine, and a late enough one to have full flow oil filtration. The governor housing cover on the combine engine is altered to contain an adjustable screw to adjust governed engine speed. On that application, the hand throttle control was not a governor control like on tractors, but simply pulled the carburetor lever back to idle. I have no idea how it was done on the grader, but I assume you would want a full range of governed speed like on the tractor.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

I can't answer your specifics. But I can tell you a Gleaner E engine is a D17 engine, and a late enough one to have full flow oil filtration. The governor housing cover on the combine engine is altered to contain an adjustable screw to adjust governed engine speed. On that application, the hand throttle control was not a governor control like on tractors, but simply pulled the carburetor lever back to idle. I have no idea how it was done on the grader, but I assume you would want a full range of governed speed like on the tractor.

And I just remembered - the head uses a long reach (3/4") spark plug. Grader probably doesn't use the fuel pump?

 

[used red MN]

Generally when doing an engine overhaul it is best to tear it down then measure and only after being armed with this information order the parts. Yes someone may be able to give you the journal size but you have no way of knowing if the crankshaft in it has already been ground requiring under sized bearings. Maybe you have money to burn on return shipping and restocking fees. JMHO

 

[buickanddeere]

Drop it off at the local reputable engine rebuild shop .

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'm with used Red MN you really need to get your apart so you know if it has had changes made to it over the years like over bored sleeves or turned crank. Mic your parts before ordering things and if the crank needs turned then let those people get the bearings for the crank. Same with if you need the sleeves pulled or installed the head also likewise. I know it probably costs a bit more but will be cheaper in the end since you will know things will fit right also check on what your crank is when they get done with it so you know if the new bearings are the right size. New bearings have been shipped the wrong size or wrong box before. Not your guys fault it happens fairly uncommon for it but does happen.

 

[Aaron SEIA]

Its the same as a later D17, but you won't know what rod/main bearings to get until you mic the crank.
AaronSEIA

 

[docmirror]

OK, I found a good rebuild shop, I'll just take it there and let them tear it down. I can then refer to the parts dept here for the right bearings. The pistons rings, and jugs will all be repl. Only thing left is the head bits.

 

[Jim.ME]

OK, I found a good rebuild shop, I'll just take it there and let them tear it down. I can then refer to the parts dept here for the right bearings. The pistons rings, and jugs will all be repl. Only thing left is the head bits.

If for some reason the crank needs to be turned, I would let the shop doing the turning get the bearings. Then if there is a fit issue when it gets assembled it's all theirs.