Haybine crimping rolls

[poorboys 151]

I have a Hesston 1071 haybine that I need a bottom roll for the rubber is coming off where can I get it redone at tried looking online but haven’t found anything thanks for any help

 

[used red MN]

Might try here
Possible source
Says they are in Kansas.

 

[Down under farmer]

I have a Hesston 1071 haybine that I need a bottom roll for the rubber is coming off where can I get it redone at tried looking online but haven’t found anything thanks for any help

Get some angle iron heat bend weld repeat and repeat and repeat.... will never wear it out. We did it to a new holland years ago. Outlasted the machine now we run a Vermeer and it's factory twin steel rolls.

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

You are going to spent a lot of money if you can even get it rebuilt. I would try Fry's Machinery in Pennsdale PA as they might have a good used one. Tom

 

[DanielW]

I could be wrong, but wasn't the 1070/1071 varyingly offered with steel-on-steel, steel-on-rubber, or rubber-on-rubber rolls? You might try calling around to the ag scrapyards to find one with a steel bottom roll you could use. Unfortunately those things weigh like pig lead; even at scrap price it won't be cheap. There are quite a few places that re-lag old rolls if you bring them in (Circle C is one that likely offers the best roll covering and mesh system, but is probably the most expensive). Unfortunately whatever way you go about it, the cost is likely going to be far more than an older sickle machine is worth on the market. If it's in great condition and you like it, you might still consider it worth doing.

The option of stripping the rubber and welding angle/tube/flat-bar is a common one. Someone asked about doing it a while ago and here was my response:

You have to get the bar spacing right, such that they're close enough to crimp but far enough not to strike each other as they sweep through their arc. And you have to make the spacing and welding consistent enough that they maintain some semblance of balance. The result might be a tiny bit rougher on your leafy alfalfa crops, but not enough to really notice. Some folks use tube/angle, but the concern is that they necessitate a larger spacing between bars, and it thus might not always 'crimp' the crop. I'd go with 5/8" x 1 1/4" flat bar, welded with the 1 1/4" side sticking up, 5/8" side against the roll. You want your welds to be good with conservative stitch spacing: A chewing gum weld that lets go at high speed isn't going to do anything any favours. You want to jump around on your welds - not too much in one spot or on one side at a time so it doesn't distort. The hardest part can be stripping the rubber off the old rolls. New Hollands don't seem to be that bad: once it's started to peel off in one spot you can usually keep peeling.

I tried it on a Deere 1209 once - that was a nightmare. Half the rubber was peeled off, but the other half was vulcanized on unbelievably well. I ended up running the haybine at high RPM while using a sharpened 6' pry bar as a turning tool and carving the rubber off - essentially using it like a big lathe, with one of the reel bars as the tool rest. Very, very, very dangerous: Rubber chunks flying everywhere, and it caught the prybar a few times and threw it into the next county. If you're trying at home, I'd say a hard hat, eye protection, and juicy life-insurance policy are required. I got the top roll done, welded a channel in place at the back to use as the 'tool rest' to do the bottom roll, but next weekend I bought an IH 990 haybine (fantastic machine - one of the few good pieces of IH haying equipment) at an auction for $280. I sent the Deere POS to the scrappers without finishing.

 

[69stang]

I found this sight for my swather years ago. I never use them I got rid of that swather and got a Moco.

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