Hello...and help please.....

MastPoint

New User
New to the site so I'll start with a hello. I've been cruising the site for a while but decided I finally need to dive in and ask a question.

I'm new to tractors, well to owning one. Last fall I bought a '74 JD1530 with a 145 loader from a friends mother who was retiring to the south. Her husband who had passed was the original owner but it had been loaned to a daughter and son-in-law for a few years after the he passed and they did a pretty good job of beating up and neglecting just about everything on it. However, I received the original owners manual, service manual, loader manual and got to work on swapping every filter, every fluid, draining the rear tires, welding up the holes in the rim, putting in new tunes and mounting the tires (nearly killed me), putting on new tie rods, putting on some LED lighting (all original lighting was gone), and generally correcting issues.

Today however I met my match and in a spot I didn't expect. Along with the tractor I received a hydraulic cylinder that came from somewhere along the way. It had one hose on it with a male plug and the other hole capped. I was curious if I could get the cylinder working and build a tree shear so I bought a second hose of plug and thought I'd hook it up the the Breakaway remote on the rear of the tractor and see if the ram would move in and out. Try as I might I couldn't figure out how to connect it. I pushed and pushed, I lowered everything to the ground to try and relieve and pressure in the system....I couldn't tell for sure if the plug style was correct for the sockets on the coupler but the plugs are the style called out for in the manual (I'm pretty sure). But the manual just says the breakaway coupler is used to secure and release an implement....it doesn't actually tell you how to connect it other than plug it in and turn the lever 90 degrees to allow oil to flow.

I've attached some photos. What am I missing? Why can't I just push these darn plugs into those sockets???

Thanks in advance for any replies!

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Just feel the back side of the coupler and push them back toward you. You could also put a finger behind the lever to help move coupler out. Once out push hose end in and turn lever to the outside of the housing. Just to make it easier stop engine and move lever(the one for raise and lowering) back and forth in case there is pressure on the coupler.
 
I'll try and help ya..
directly behind where you plug in the hose tip,,(you have the right ones, BTW)there is a round part that sticks out a bit,, push this cylinder towards the rear of the tractor on both outlets,, when ya get this pushed to the rear of the tractor, shove the hose tip firmly in the socket, outlet, or whatever you call it, now there is a lever on the bottom of the scv(those round rods on the bottom)must be turned 90 degrees to the outside to turn on the internal valving,,and also lock in the hose tip,,..
HTH..
 
You pull the female "barrel" with the 6 balls toward you hard. May have to tap them from the back side. Don't tap hard! Then
insert the male end of the hose coupler into the female and push hard. Then you turn the handle down below, right one to the right
and left one to the left. May have to LIGHTLY tap them to make then turn. Hydraulics should then work with the control lever.
 
Thanks or all the replies! You would have all gotten a kick out of watching me originally pushing down on those two plugs on top of the scv with all of my might thinking they were frozen from years of not being used!

I pushed the two tabs from the back and they popped right open. Fittings in and levers turned and nothing looks to be leaking. On to the next thing!
 
I get a kick out of the owners manual demonstrating how to attach the hoses. The person is in nice clean coveralls, uses just a few fingers on the outlet and the hose slips right in, no fuss no mess. I manage to skin a knuckle or two, turn the air blue with my language and get oil over everything!
Ben
 
The o-rings that seal the barrels get hard with age and move HARD . Replace those o-rings and I will bet that they work better .
 

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