ScottyHOMeY
Well-known Member
Following up on last night's work.
Stop. You've got a couple of things to figure out, before you run the tractor much more.
Having to extend the thread on the carb rod as you did suggests there may be something amiss. It may have to do with either the carb or the governor.
As for the governor, the only thing you could determine from the outside that would cause this would be the remote possibility that the rockshaft arm (the one you hooked the rod to) is bent to the rear. It's also possible (still, remote) that the key that keeps it from turning on the shaft is (somehow) broken or missing, allowing it to turn clockwise (toward the rear) which wuld shorten the connecting length. Be CAREFUL if you decide to go at that rockshaft. It's brittle and won't stand much stress from bending or prying and pulling. I wouldn't attempt it on the tractor.
You need to get after that carb and see what it is. With luck, you'll be able to identify it from the tag that we can hope is still on it under all the gunk. If it's the original (likely a Carter or Zenith) it's probably not a factor in the extreme adjustment. If it's a replacement, it may or may not be part of the problem. There is a new Zenith that is a direct replacement that would require only minimal adjustment to synch to the governor, but I've also got one out on the shelf that is more what I'd call a kit replacement carb, in that you can move parts around on it to put the throttle linkage in different places and positions to adapt it to different motors and applications. If something like that got put on . . .
I always have to start from scratch to work through in my head which way the springs and the weights inside the governor push the shaft, but it IS possible that either the thrust bearing, the main spring, or the shaft bumper spring has failed. If somebody with more experience of these things than I have can chime in and say that your symptoms are a sure indicator that one or more of those is shot, then I'd say you might as well go straight into the governor. If not, and depending how it runs, I'm still for eliminating everything but before getting into that, and I'm still tending to think it's something else if I understand correctly that the engine would consistently speed up and slow down in response to your moving the speed lever.
AS far as the two springs at the front of the rod on the right side, the shorter, heavier spring goes to the front. These play a role in how quickly the governor responds. They do get fatigued and could be replaced if you wanted to, but if they're both there, they shouldn't be causing any extreme problem.
I've been told in response to questions I've had about both mine that it's not unusual for the governor to work over less than the entire range of your speed control lever. I've got one that idles at the bottom and maxes out at about two thirds of it's full range, and another that operates over the top two-thirds of the range - anything below that is just low idle.
Still you're not coming back to low idle now. How hard did you pull back on the governor lever when you adjusted it? I'm only on my second cup of coffee, so I can't recall whether or not that lever just stops or if you need to pull against some spring tension that you meet. You might try backing off some of your new threads some (average out the slack, as you put it) to see if it will come back down to idle.
As far as your motor, I've got a good idea that it's not a '40. Those serial numbers on the block can be notoriously hard to read. A number like you described, if it is the serial number, would be an early motor with the D indicating it was built with high altitude (5000 ft) pistons. But a motor that early would not have a place machined into the front of the block, just below your distributor, for the hydraulic pump. You didn't give the actual numbers you were reading, but if it's 3####D and what you're reading as a D at the end is actually a 0, then you've likely got the original motor. If you've got two pipes running forward from your Touch Control unit to the hydraulic pump at the right front of the block, I can safely say it's not a '40.
(I don't have a parts book for the SuperA, but in the book for As and Bs, they do list replacement crankcase, sleeve,and piston sets, with part numbers that use the old IH system and end in D, but the detail on those part numbers list the regular crankcase part number with the R# numbering system. I don't know whether the D number was anywhere on the engine, or just on the crate that the whole set was shipped in. In any event, a part number would be raised and cast, not stamped into that flat on the top right of the crankcase.)
Were it mine, I'd slack off that adjustment a little and run her enough to see if you can get the full range of smooth response back (high to low idle, going both up and down) Get that back and then check to see if she still falters with a load. If so, I'd get after the fuel lines and that carb next, and go from there.
Stop. You've got a couple of things to figure out, before you run the tractor much more.
Having to extend the thread on the carb rod as you did suggests there may be something amiss. It may have to do with either the carb or the governor.
As for the governor, the only thing you could determine from the outside that would cause this would be the remote possibility that the rockshaft arm (the one you hooked the rod to) is bent to the rear. It's also possible (still, remote) that the key that keeps it from turning on the shaft is (somehow) broken or missing, allowing it to turn clockwise (toward the rear) which wuld shorten the connecting length. Be CAREFUL if you decide to go at that rockshaft. It's brittle and won't stand much stress from bending or prying and pulling. I wouldn't attempt it on the tractor.
You need to get after that carb and see what it is. With luck, you'll be able to identify it from the tag that we can hope is still on it under all the gunk. If it's the original (likely a Carter or Zenith) it's probably not a factor in the extreme adjustment. If it's a replacement, it may or may not be part of the problem. There is a new Zenith that is a direct replacement that would require only minimal adjustment to synch to the governor, but I've also got one out on the shelf that is more what I'd call a kit replacement carb, in that you can move parts around on it to put the throttle linkage in different places and positions to adapt it to different motors and applications. If something like that got put on . . .
I always have to start from scratch to work through in my head which way the springs and the weights inside the governor push the shaft, but it IS possible that either the thrust bearing, the main spring, or the shaft bumper spring has failed. If somebody with more experience of these things than I have can chime in and say that your symptoms are a sure indicator that one or more of those is shot, then I'd say you might as well go straight into the governor. If not, and depending how it runs, I'm still for eliminating everything but before getting into that, and I'm still tending to think it's something else if I understand correctly that the engine would consistently speed up and slow down in response to your moving the speed lever.
AS far as the two springs at the front of the rod on the right side, the shorter, heavier spring goes to the front. These play a role in how quickly the governor responds. They do get fatigued and could be replaced if you wanted to, but if they're both there, they shouldn't be causing any extreme problem.
I've been told in response to questions I've had about both mine that it's not unusual for the governor to work over less than the entire range of your speed control lever. I've got one that idles at the bottom and maxes out at about two thirds of it's full range, and another that operates over the top two-thirds of the range - anything below that is just low idle.
Still you're not coming back to low idle now. How hard did you pull back on the governor lever when you adjusted it? I'm only on my second cup of coffee, so I can't recall whether or not that lever just stops or if you need to pull against some spring tension that you meet. You might try backing off some of your new threads some (average out the slack, as you put it) to see if it will come back down to idle.
As far as your motor, I've got a good idea that it's not a '40. Those serial numbers on the block can be notoriously hard to read. A number like you described, if it is the serial number, would be an early motor with the D indicating it was built with high altitude (5000 ft) pistons. But a motor that early would not have a place machined into the front of the block, just below your distributor, for the hydraulic pump. You didn't give the actual numbers you were reading, but if it's 3####D and what you're reading as a D at the end is actually a 0, then you've likely got the original motor. If you've got two pipes running forward from your Touch Control unit to the hydraulic pump at the right front of the block, I can safely say it's not a '40.
(I don't have a parts book for the SuperA, but in the book for As and Bs, they do list replacement crankcase, sleeve,and piston sets, with part numbers that use the old IH system and end in D, but the detail on those part numbers list the regular crankcase part number with the R# numbering system. I don't know whether the D number was anywhere on the engine, or just on the crate that the whole set was shipped in. In any event, a part number would be raised and cast, not stamped into that flat on the top right of the crankcase.)
Were it mine, I'd slack off that adjustment a little and run her enough to see if you can get the full range of smooth response back (high to low idle, going both up and down) Get that back and then check to see if she still falters with a load. If so, I'd get after the fuel lines and that carb next, and go from there.
