How remove broken bolt?

[Tree-Farmer]

What's the appropriate tool to remove this broken bolt? This is a hydraulic limiter/regulator from a JD 7100 planter, for the markers.
The adapter broke off, at the top, in this picture, I want to get it out.
It's hollow.

Is there a screw that I can screw in one way, tighten it up against the the broken bolt/adapter, then turn it the other way to back it out?

What tool/screw should I use to remove the broken part?

Thank you!

 

[rustred]

Put that fitting on an anvil and hammer on all the flat sides around the break with some penetrating lube. Then use as n easy-out to remove that broken piece. That’s the tool for the job. I don’t think u need heat on it but you will see.

 

[farmersamm]

Irwin Hanson 19/64 in. Carbon Steel Spiral Screw Extractor Set 7 in. 5 pc Mfr# 53535 - Ace Hardware

IRWIN Hanson Spiral Flute Screw Extractors are designed to remove broken studs, bolts, socket screws and fittingsFind the SPIRAL SCREW EXTRCTR 5PC at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

I've had limited success with these. You cross your fingers, and get on about it.

The EGR pipe has a fitting that goes into the exhaust manifold. It broke off, leaving the threaded portion stuck in the manifold.

This was the final act of desperation. Had to heat the cast iron manifold to cherry red to expand the thread. This allowed the extractor to remove it. It could have resulted in a cracked manifold, but there was no other choice. The threaded piece was unweldable, so a bolt couldn't be welded to it to extract it.

I don't know what's inside the flow restrictor you have. If it's heat sensitive, you'll have to rely on luck, and a long soak in PB Blaster before attempting to remove the broken piece.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

They make lots of different tools for that job. Looks like an ideal application for a SCREW EXTRACTOR set like this:

This type simply threads backwards into the stuck fitting/screw/bolt until it wedges and if it's going to come out, it will come out.

If it was snapped off by something dropping on it, it should come right out. On the other hand, if it twisted off when you were trying to remove it, an extractor won't work. It will just strip out, or break off, leaving you with an even bigger problem of a diamond-hard piece of steel stuck in the hole that can't be drilled or extracted.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I would not try to extract that part without first applying a lot of heat. It broke because it was seized; it's not going to come out until the bond between the two parts has been broken. Rather than trying to heat the entire assembly, I'd use a brazing tip in an acetylene torch to focus heat on the small 'bolt'. Once the bolt is cherry red, an easy-out should be able to remove it.

 

[The Old Codger]

They make lots of different tools for that job. Looks like an ideal application for a SCREW EXTRACTOR set like this:
View attachment 119753
This type simply threads backwards into the stuck fitting/screw/bolt until it wedges and if it's going to come out, it will come out.

If it was snapped off by something dropping on it, it should come right out. On the other hand, if it twisted off when you were trying to remove it, an extractor won't work. It will just strip out, or break off, leaving you with an even bigger problem of a diamond-hard piece of steel stuck in the hole that can't be drilled or extracted.

These do work well but from experience I'll share they snap off, or strip easily if heated. Best to drill the broken fastener, heat the surrounding area, then drive this into the previously drilled fastener and twist it out. They don't seem to be tolerant of being heated themselves and readily either snap off, or strip their reverse cut threads.

The set shown is Harbor Freight and they do replace the broken extractors easily, but it's a pain to be held up in a job because it happened in the first place. FWIW of course.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

I find heating , then allowing the seized part to cool works very well , especially for internal fixtures .
The logic is that while expanding the bolt will crush any corrosion between the threads and surrounding metal. Once completely cool this hopefully opens up a minuscule space that both eases the seized area and allows penetrating fluid to enter . The bad ones take a few goes , they always let go in the end though.

 

[The Old Codger]

I removed several retaining a floor panel just yesterday. Heated the center of the bolt till very red, allow to cool, repeat. After second cooling of about a minute, zip it out with an impact wrench. In my application, a section of angle steel protected the paint on the close proximity of the side panels.

 

[4wdtom]

I removed several retaining a floor panel just yesterday. Heated the center of the bolt till very red, allow to cool, repeat. After second cooling of about a minute, zip it out with an impact wrench. In my application, a section of angle steel protected the paint on the close proximity of the side panels.

If you have or know someone with a vertical milling machine you can go in with an endmill and CAREFULLY enlarge the hole until you just see the threads starting to show and then you can pull the remaining thread out with a pair of plyers after getting the top end free.

 

[showcrop]

I have had the best luck with this type of extractor. I think that they have a wider cross section relative to the amount of engagement surface than any other so they will take significantly more torque without breaking. In addition they have a square cross section with four "blades" to dig into and hold onto the surface.

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

I have had the best luck with this type of extractor. I think that they have a wider cross section relative to the amount of engagement surface than any other so they will take significantly more torque without breaking. In addition they have a square cross section with four "blades" to dig into and hold onto the surface.

Those are what we used in our shop. They are much better than the spiral.

 

[rustred]

Those are what we used in our shop. They are much better than the spiral.

Yep , agree.

 

[Watthour]

Use your favorite search engine to learn about a "tap burner" and it could be informative.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I never found any of them worked much on a good and stuck problem. Mostly drill or heat and then would come out. I always had to heat the outer piece then get it out before it cooled and sometimes had to heat it a second or third time but some times had to let cool completely before the second or third heating so it didn't all expand together. I suppose on your deal it will have some o-rings and such in it that you will need to replace upon reassembly or it wil leak or not work. So I guess I would try to weld a washer or nut to the top and see if it would come out . Being it is a hydraulic fitting vale it should not be to difficult to get out. I would probably squirt some diesel fuel on there or soak it in some for the day then try it. Better than heat ing if you can.

 

[Eagle Doc]

Put that fitting on an anvil and hammer on all the flat sides around the break with some penetrating lube. Then use as n easy-out to remove that broken piece. That’s the tool for the job. I don’t think u need heat on it but you will see.

Rustred's idea has worked very well for me. If it is rusted, I have used Superzilla, it seems to work better than Blaster and at $18.00 a can it should.

 

[chvet73]

I’ve never used one but it looks like a left handed drill bit might spin it right out.

 

[showcrop]

I’ve never used one but it looks like a left handed drill bit might spin it right out.

My experience is that left handed drill bits work like magic, but in this case I don't think that there is enough material to drill.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

He said it was a hydraulic regulator of some sort. If there are any precision surfaces in there, heating it red hot and/or hammering on it is probably not a good idea.

 

[Steven Allen]

I recently ran across a reference to this product: CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant. Seems to be available online and at many auto parts stores. If I were you, I'd try it on this. You super-cool the remains of the bolt and then try your Easy-out or other tool. Assuming the guy working on the old JD A in the video wasn't using smoke and mirrors, the product seems to work. It works the opposite of heat: instead of expanding the outside, it shrinks the bolt. Worth a try.

 

[WI Dan]

I have had the best luck with this type of extractor. I think that they have a wider cross section relative to the amount of engagement surface than any other so they will take significantly more torque without breaking. In addition they have a square cross section with four "blades" to dig into and hold onto the surface.

What are those called?