Is my Jubilee's valves getting enough oil?

[MarkB_MI]

For LONG TERM storage, consider dessicant plugs in the spark plug holes.
Engine dessicant spark plugs

 

[neverfear]

Insulate and dehumidify where you store it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

First your engine has a common condition of crabber (condensation and oil mix) accumulated in the valve cover. It can be found on a modern engine as well but not as common. Ford even went as far as to use a PCV with a heating element in it. I think it was for colder climates and used across the board.

The oil that gets to the valve stem is more for removing heat than lubrication.

My first thought on preventive medicine for long storage is to fog the engine. My fist thought on that would be a marine fogger.







https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/fogging-boat-engine/

Up next would be to plug off the intake and exhaust. On my last venture it surprised me all the intakes were stuck. You made a comment about venting the engine to the intake side of the carb. I would put the intake side (PCV) between the carb and intake, the fresh air side (vent) to the air filter assembly to supply filtered air to the crankcase. The goal it to pull a good vacuum on the crankcase. The day PCV's were introduced engines started lasting longer as the contaminants in the air space were drawn from the engine : )

I am not again 2cy mix : ) good stuff just use the correct formula for a water cooled engine.

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 09/24/2023 at 07:30 am.

 

[Dean]

Ditto on the marine fogging oil.

I use it on all engines that I plan to leave unoperated for extended periods as well as air cooled engines in the off season.

 

[DoubleO7]

If you are wanting to not run it hard several times a year, then you need to prep it for long term storage.

Search the internet for recommendations as you won't believe or follow the recommendations posted by anyone here.

 

[John M]

I do understand, but you are not fixing the problem. Ford did install a PVC system, it works just fine when the tractor is used like its supposed to be. Youre Cadillac and Kubota do the exact same thing, you just dont see it because youre not looking for it. Had your Ford not got a stuck valve, youd never have known it nor would you be having this problem. But go ahead and do you. MAybe someone will be around here in 20 years when your son comes asking how to fix the problem you caused with your jury rigging.

 

[Janicholson]

The modest oil in the rocker area is very normal. There is no need for more oil at all. increasing the flow will not fix the issue by flushing the milky oil down, because the oil is still in the engine in that same compartment. The required lubrication is taking place or there would have been severe wear already. Valve guides need little oil. More oil causes coking of stems and oil consumption. that valve cover is an easy convenient port of entry for moisture laden air through that side vent device in the cover. Engines breathe as temperatures change. I lived in Terre Haute and Sealiville for years and understand the humidity and temp swings there. Though not the worst humidity, it is substantial. Indoors or out, things drip with condensation.
I would do, as you indicated before, a modification to that vent with a hose to the air intake between the air cleaner and carb. If you do, you will need a filter on the crankcase vent as that will now suck in dirt particles. My 51 GMC pickup has a PCV into the valve cover from the factory. The resupply air into the crankcase is accomplished with a oil bath air cleaner that resides next to the oil fill cap. It looks like it came off of a small engine. Running the tractor periodically until at operating temp is the second part of the equation. Jim

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Jim,
You understand my problem.

 

[crsutton81]

Wisconsin V4 engines are bad here about the valves sticking over the fall and winter while they are in storage. I have been doing as the manual has suggested and mix a 50/50 mix of kerosene and whatever engine oil you use in the crankcase, then dump it through the carb inlet with the engine hot till it dies. It will coat the valve stems and upper cylinders with lubricant. Just beware that you'll probably have to put another set of plugs in when you get ready to get it back out of hibernation. The next best thing is to take it somewhere and run the fool out of it at least once a year to blow the cobwebs out. Maybe a local plow day or such ? Sorry to say this but with it sitting around more than running, it will be a deal if you don't use it, you will loose it deal. The fogging will help tho. As to under the valve cover, if it's like the 172ci Fords in the harvesters we have, they've never been accused of having too much valve train or timing gear lubrication. Hope this helps.

 

[Dean]

Properly fog it down with marine fogging oil before each period of extended storage. I spray copious amounts of fogging oil into the carburetor inlet with engine running and then spray it into the spark plug holes after the engine stalls. Slowly crank engine a couple of turns, replace spark plugs,and walk away. Of course, I remove old gasoline and add new gasoline with stabilizer before running engine to fog it. Drain carburetor when finished.

No need to, as you say, run the snot out of it, but don't ask for the impossible.

 

[Dean]

Bingo, 007.

 

[waugh621]

Geo, this is not the answer you want but it all i know to do. My dad retired his 8n years a go and had been fighting milky oil in his too. The only way i found to fix it was to use it. Now we dont run it hard but we simply mow about half an acer about twice a year nothing crazy just some pasture. Before doing so i add justva little atf to the oil and some berryman B12 in the fuel. I compleatly understand your wanting to keep the tractor nice and pass it on to your boy but even people in retirerment homes get a little exersize.
Nate

 

[wore out]

''The only way i found to fix it was to use it. Now we don't run it hard but we simply mow about half an acre about twice a year nothing crazy just some pasture.''

BEST answer yet!

 

[DoubleO7]

(quoted from post at 14:14:36 09/24/23)

''The only way i found to fix it was to use it. Now we don't run it hard but we simply mow about half an acre about twice a year nothing crazy just some pasture.''

BEST answer yet!

And no sort of extra oil flow nor any sort or type of PCV valve will do anything to remove condensation without running it.

If you refuse to run it up to 180 degrees or so for an hour or more once in a while, your PCV valve is useless. Once in a while is more than once a year.
An hour in spring when temps are consistently in the 70s or so during the days and again in the fall before freezing weather.

PCV valves were to help burn off crankcase fumes of unburnt fuel to reduce emissions and maybe burn off the moisture.
And it won't burn off moisture unless it has vaporized due to RUNNING it up to temperature long enough.

Maybe you need one of those giant plastic bags you can drive a car into. Put a bucket of DampRid inside and seal the bag using your shop vac!

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Dean,
On the bottle of staybill, it is good for only one year.
I've been draining the gas in both generators and Jubilee once a year and no problems. Stopped using staybill after it said on the bottle the shelf life of staybill in an open bottle is one year too..
After other gassers sit over the winter, I run them out of gas in the spring when I use them.
One year works for me..

 

[Hobo,NC]

Here's yer fix.

 

[neverfear]

Why not just give it to him now then? You aren't using it anyway.
Maybe he has his eyes set on your Kubota instead.

 

[BradCNY]

Ok, so it has been determined that moisture is the problem, not oil or lack of.

Thinking outside the box. What about an engine heater or heat lamp left on all the time to keep engine warm and temperature stable, warm enough to help evaporate moisture. If you barn keep the tractor this may work.

Let's hear from the experts, certainly not energy efficient, but maybe effective.?

 

[waugh621]

Thats a good thought and i aint no expert but you probably need the better part of 100 to burn the water out and i dont know if a block heater/ heat lamp would keep it warm enough especially in the valve cover where his concern is.
Nate

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I don't agree. I think lack of oil is why #4 valve stuck open and push rods are covered with rust. If they had a coating of oil they would not have rusted.
The tractor is started at least every month.