Is there a way to determine what my 300 is?

[chris142]

I don't have the I.D. tag. I know its a 300 series with the round nose so 56 or 57 ? Adjustable front axle, 2 transmissions, eagle hitch etc.

At one time I was told it was a 310 but I google a 310 and thats a crawler. I can get the engine serial # if needed.

 

[J Hamilton]

Does this help? This is from Tractor Data

 

[chris142]

I dont know what row crop ,high crop etc is. Its gas powered so that leaves 310,311,312 or 320. Whats the difference gerween an industrial and a utility?

 

[J Hamilton]

I dont know what row crop ,high crop etc is. Its gas powered so that leaves 310,311,312 or 320. Whats the difference gerween an industrial and a utility?

If you could post a couple pictures of your tractor, we can most likely identify it for you

 

[chris142]

All I got right now

 

[chris142]

Found another

 

[J Hamilton]

It looks to me like a model 311. Gasoline engine, and adjustable front and rear tire width. The adjustable width makes the tractor wide or narrow for cultivating different crops, making it a (row crop) tractor

 

[chris142]

It looks to me like a model 311. Gasoline engine, and adjustable front and rear tire width. The adjustable width makes the tractor wide or narrow for cultivating different crops, making it a (row crop) tractor

Thank you! any idea if its a 56 or 57? any way to know? engine serial?

 

[Joe (Wa)]

All I got right now

You have a model 311 general purpose tractor. Adjustable front and rear tread.

I have a 1956 model 310 utility tractor. Solid front and rear axle. The rear axle is adjustable by disk position. 300 series tractors can be diesel, gas or propane.

 

[chris142]

You have a model 311 general purpose tractor. Adjustable front and rear tread.

I have a 1956 model 310 utility tractor. Solid front and rear axle. The rear axle is adjustable by disk position. 300 series tractors can be diesel, gas or propane.

Thank you! No way to know the actual year? I don't know why I want to know that.

 

[Tgrasher]

By the style of the outside of your fenders, I would say you have a 1957. Early 300's had a box type of reinforcement to strengthen them. Later models had the vertical angled steel like your fenders have.
Just a heads up on taking care of your 300: oil your distributor on the outside oiler and in the top of the shaft, distributors are hard to find and rebuilt ones prices are crazy. If you have not put any gear oil in the front steering gear box, check it, add a little and see if it holds or leaks it. If it leaks put light weight grease in it if your OK with the amount of play in the steering. Keep your engine oil changed as the main bearings for the 1956-57 G148 are not available. Your gage cluster has oilers for the speedometer and tachometer. Usually they are never oiled nor the cables which causes the cables to seize up and break. New cables were $17 a few years ago but make sure the inside of the gage cluster is free of debris or damage to the fine springs of both can happen.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Ditto Tgrasher all points lube noted. Steering slop can be adjusted but you should do an open inspection first or you might break the lever if studs are badly worn and lash is adjusted to tight. There are a few minor changes over the years, check your parts manual for a match when buying a part. 300 series prior to sn 6055313 (very early 1956) had a two stud steering, I don't believe anyone in there right mind would replace it with another 2 stud lever after that serial nr.

 

[Tgrasher]

Thanks Joe, didn't know there was a two stud steering, that would seem to be a muscle builder or tearer depending on how old the driver was. So far all of mine have been the three stud. First one I redid, I was able to knock the studs out and reinsert them 180 degrees around to the unused side. The next one the studs were loose and chunks were broken from the worm gear. One more to rebuild but I use that 300 almost every day and the steering wheel play is less than an eighth of a turn. I've kept it lubed the 32 years I've had it.

 

[kenbob]

By the style of the outside of your fenders, I would say you have a 1957. Early 300's had a box type of reinforcement to strengthen them. Later models had the vertical angled steel like your fenders have.
Just a heads up on taking care of your 300: oil your distributor on the outside oiler and in the top of the shaft, distributors are hard to find and rebuilt ones prices are crazy. If you have not put any gear oil in the front steering gear box, check it, add a little and see if it holds or leaks it. If it leaks put light weight grease in it if your OK with the amount of play in the steering. Keep your engine oil changed as the main bearings for the 1956-57 G148 are not available. Your gage cluster has oilers for the speedometer and tachometer. Usually they are never oiled nor the cables which causes the cables to seize up and break. New cables were $17 a few years ago but make sure the inside of the gage cluster is free of debris or damage to the fine springs of both can happen.

My steering box leaks so I put JD cornhead grease in it after gear oil leaked out. A great improvement in ease of stearing compared to gear oil.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

It is a 310 loader tractor with the PS assist cylinder, the lever may not have broken with armstrong steering. That 2 stud was broke when I bought the tractor. I had it welded and put new studs in while hunting a good 3 stud lever. Wasn't having any luck finding one. Bumped a grass covered stump pretty hard in a turn with a bucket full of gravel and broke the other side. I was helping Roger Hornbaker with instrumentation at the time, he found one some where and mailed it to me.

The problem with a 2 stud lever is the crescent shape of the lever, the leading stud lash opens while making a turn so the trailing stud assumes nearly all the load. The 3 stud lever has two trailing studs to assume the load.

 

[chris142]

By the style of the outside of your fenders, I would say you have a 1957. Early 300's had a box type of reinforcement to strengthen them. Later models had the vertical angled steel like your fenders have.
Just a heads up on taking care of your 300: oil your distributor on the outside oiler and in the top of the shaft, distributors are hard to find and rebuilt ones prices are crazy. If you have not put any gear oil in the front steering gear box, check it, add a little and see if it holds or leaks it. If it leaks put light weight grease in it if your OK with the amount of play in the steering. Keep your engine oil changed as the main bearings for the 1956-57 G148 are not available. Your gage cluster has oilers for the speedometer and tachometer. Usually they are never oiled nor the cables which causes the cables to seize up and break. New cables were $17 a few years ago but make sure the inside of the gage cluster is free of debris or damage to the fine springs of both can happen.

Thanks. It does not have an outside oiler on the distributer. It does have a metal plug that looks factory where one would have been. Are you saying to remove the rotor and put oil there? I'm pretty good about engine oil and I know that it just has a bypass oil filter. It had a pretty rough life before I got it. Had not had an oil change in decades judging by the sludge I saw when I had the valve cover off. I acted like I didnt see that.



It has pretty severe piston slap on #1 that gets quieter as it warms up. I assume its broken. Still has enough compression to run with any 3 plug wires removed though.

It's quietest on 20w50.

None of the dash works except for the Ammeter and oil pressure. All the cables are gone and someone swapped it over to 12v with an alternator and regulator from a 60's GM car or truck. Has a block ballast resister installed to protect the points.

I seem to remember putting oil in the steering box and it just ran out years ago.

 

[chris142]

I looked this morning. there isnt any place to oil the distributer on the outside. I assume Im looking for a little spring loaded cap I can lift up and put oil in?

pulled off the rotor and put some there. Will check if it went down any tonight,

I found another thread on carbureators that said the carb was dated. I found mine and its 6-57. Assuming its original that would coincide with my tractor being a 57.

 

[Tgrasher]

Thanks. It does not have an outside oiler on the distributer. It does have a metal plug that looks factory where one would have been.

This is an Auto-lite distributor from a 300 like I was referring to. They also came with a Prestolite which I believe had a similar oiler. Your's must have been broken and replaced with the plug. Since you will have the cap off to oil the shaft in the top, remove the plug and squirt some in the hole while working the shaft back and forth. The shaft has bronze bushings it turns on. The top part of the shaft turns with the timing advance inside the lower part and this is what wears along with the bronze bushings. The result is erratic running of the motor as the spark and timing change on their own. You might consider putting a bottle of STP in the oil, it sounds like you need all the help you can with your bearings. The cut cables are par for the course on abused tractors, as long as you have oil and amp gages working your good, the heat would only be of concern if you were working it hard, and then you will see excess blow by coming from the breather on the valve cover.

 

[Tgrasher]

Picture

 

[chris142]

This is an Auto-lite distributor from a 300 like I was referring to. They also came with a Prestolite which I believe had a similar oiler. Your's must have been broken and replaced with the plug. Since you will have the cap off to oil the shaft in the top, remove the plug and squirt some in the hole while working the shaft back and forth. The shaft has bronze bushings it turns on. The top part of the shaft turns with the timing advance inside the lower part and this is what wears along with the bronze bushings. The result is erratic running of the motor as the spark and timing change on their own. You might consider putting a bottle of STP in the oil, it sounds like you need all the help you can with your bearings. The cut cables are par for the course on abused tractors, as long as you have oil and amp gages working your good, the heat would only be of concern if you were working it hard, and then you will see excess blow by coming from the breather on the valve cover.

thing has zero blowby. I actully put in a mechanical temperature guage years ago. Put a new 180 thermostat in it last week while i had it split. been using cardboard as a thermostat forever