Jube tune up tidbits

[Tall T]

For what it's worth . . .
As part of a tuneup I decided to put a kit in the carb but this time bought one locally for a whopping $45.
But the basic kit I got ten years ago from YT was better! It had more washers, packing etc. and was cheap by comparison.

The first thing I noticed was that the needle and seat were typical in the new kit but the YT kit had the needle with the groove at the top to accept a little wire clip that connects to the floats and ensures that the needle is pulled from the seat whenever the floats drop.
So . . . I examined the needle tip of the YT one I was using and left it in!
Tractor is running fine. So much for having spent $45 for two gaskets . . . speaking of which, the carb to manifold gasket was crudely punched out and had oval holes apparently to accommodate some other model Schebler as well. So the gasket wanted to move too much bolt to bolt thus could obstruct the carb throat hole if it slid on assembly . . . so I gaskacinched it to the carb flange first.
I'm babbling on because I've seen people on the forum asking what to look for in a kit or where to buy it and Yesterday's is excellent.

Another thing about the little clip that keeps the rotor fitted to the distributor shaft. My rotor was a little wobbly, so I cut a small rectangle out of shim shim stock and slid it down between the flat side of the shaft and the clip -- flush with the top. Rotor slid on snuggly with no more wiggle room.

Put a new glass sediment bowl under the gas tank too. Got it from YT in 2015 . . . no leaks.

Previous owner had mounted the ballast resistor right against the block near a bolt head and you could see how that white material was breaking away.
I remounted it with rubber grommets.

And yada, yada . . .

TT

 

[old]

For what it's worth . . .
As part of a tuneup I decided to put a kit in the carb but this time bought one locally for a whopping $45.
But the basic kit I got ten years ago from YT was better! It had more washers, packing etc. and was cheap by comparison.

The first thing I noticed was that the needle and seat were typical in the new kit but the YT kit had the needle with the groove at the top to accept a little wire clip that connects to the floats and ensures that the needle is pulled from the seat whenever the floats drop.
So . . . I examined the needle tip of the YT one I was using and left it in!
Tractor is running fine. So much for having spent $45 for two gaskets . . . speaking of which, the carb to manifold gasket was crudely punched out and had oval holes apparently to accommodate some other model Schebler as well. So the gasket wanted to move too much bolt to bolt thus could obstruct the carb throat hole if it slid on assembly . . . so I gaskacinched it to the carb flange first.
I'm babbling on because I've seen people on the forum asking what to look for in a kit or where to buy it and Yesterday's is excellent.

Another thing about the little clip that keeps the rotor fitted to the distributor shaft. My rotor was a little wobbly, so I cut a small rectangle out of shim shim stock and slid it down between the flat side of the shaft and the clip -- flush with the top. Rotor slid on snuggly with no more wiggle room.

Put a new glass sediment bowl under the gas tank too. Got it from YT in 2015 . . . no leaks.

Previous owner had mounted the ballast resistor right against the block near a bolt head and you could see how that white material was breaking away.
I remounted it with rubber grommets.

And yada, yada . . .

TT

I buy my carb kits from my Local O'Reilly's auto parts store for around $25 and the kits have enough parts to rebuild 2 carb but the 2 carbs are the say small and medium or medium and large etc.