K2

[scottgSC]

I recently purchased a Gleaner K2, my first combine, and have a few questions. I have been lurking for a while and have found a wealth of knowledge here so I am sure you guys will be able to help a beginner like me.

I have three issues that I have not been able to get adequate information from my operator’s manual.

1 – I replaced the main drive belt according to the instructions in my operator’s manual and it is slipping. How much play should that belt have when the tension pulley is adjusted properly?

2 – The hydro temp light in the overhead consul is coming on when I run the combine. The buzzer is not coming on, however the light is. Right now I do not have a head on the machine and the light will still come on. I have not done anything other than make sure the fluid level is good. Any suggestions as to where to start?

3 – Finally, I cannot seem to figure out how to lock the steering column in place. It moves back and forth and the latch it shows in the operator’s manual is not working. Any suggestions how I can lock it in place?

Thank you in advance for any information you can give me.

Scott

 

[Tim(nj)]

The lights come on when communication with the sensor is lost. I have a bad radiator temp sensor in mine, so the coolant light is always on.
Spring probably broke or came off in the tilt lock on the steering wheel. I forget offhand how exactly it works and how you get in there. I have to dig out the parts and service books. If you can find a service book (really thick) on eBay or anyplace else, it's worth it.
Don't know what to tell you on the drive belt yet.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Scott, If your machine is a variable speed and not a hydro - that light will stay on. Ignore it or remove the bulb as I did on my F2. Tom

 

[Bob Bancroft]

When the variable speed drive belt is properly tensioned, the lower sheaves do not touch when the upper sheaves are at their widest point(all the way slow) I have a thin small metal 6" pocket rule that works nicely. I think the book will give you some .000" dimension,but that's ridiculous. The idea is that the bottom sheaves aren't bottoming out against one another. You can tell when they do, because the belt loses grip, and you stop!
I just looked back at your questions. Did you mean the belt from the engine down with the spring loaded idler? Usually tension on that is not an issue?
I assume you're talking about hydraulic system temp. The sender is obvious- screwed into the side of the reservoir. So somewhere from the sender to the module in the cab you have an issue.
If I remember right, you can see the tilt mechanism up under the platform. If you could have someone work it while you look you probably can tell whether something is stuck, broke, etc.

 

[scottgSC]

Thanks for the reply's. I was talking about the variable speed drive belt. Both of the lower sheaves are touching so I guess I need to keep adjusting. I have spent allot of time working on vehicle however I have never come across another that you truly need two people for most operations.
Thanks again guys

 

[Bob Bancroft]

There is a big coil spring down in that lower sheave/input shaft assembly. That has to be right to work in conjunction with the hyd. upper sheaves. So in essence if you keep the the bottom sheaves from bottoming out, you always have "spring" tension on that belt. Don't know if that helps your understanding. I never know how detailed to get, and there's a lot more in my brain than my fingers can get on this computer!
That's a great machine. You'll get used to it and enjoy it(as long as it has AC)!

 

[cadet trooper]

There is a transmission pressure light that seems to stay on all the time in the earlier 2 series anything of Gleaner it seems to come and go at will I've talked to Gleaner techs about that many times and all they would say there is a fix coming fot it but never saw it until the later versions came out and it just went away all they would say is don't worry about it. As far as the tilt steering wheel issue there should be a foot pedal at the base of the pedestal I'm thinking the pedal pivot needs lubed to allow the spring to pull in the catch or the spring is broke. As far as the VS pulley based on your info I have to agree the pulley spring is broke.

 

[scottgSC]

How would I check the coil spring?
Thanks again guys. Ya"ll have been helpfull.
Scott

 

[ewbeye]

Scott your steering wheel locking mechanism frame section below the cab is probably cracked or broken. If so, lower the throat completely to allow room below the cab. Then unscrew the 4 steering hyd line fittings under the cab. Let them drain in a bucket, clean them, label with tape to id each, & cap them. Now, unbolt the upper column section from the pivot up. Leave the steering wheel & hyd motor intach and just pull the top column frame up & out. The rubber hoses will slip right thru. Set that aside.
Go under the cab & unbolt the two pivot bolts making sure to catch the inserts as you pull out the bolts. Also unbolt the lock mechanism from the pad in the cab. Now you can remove the lower column, re-weld it, re-paint it, & then re-install.
It takes about half a day & someone to help.