Kevin's '57 Case 400 issues

[John Saeli]

Nothing worse than having to go backwards. This side is leaking past the new seals. I put 2 new seals in each side. This side was in the worst shape when I originally took them apart. Going to have to pull it back apart and maybe clean the shaft some more. View attachment 119276

Cant belive it's leaking already. I've barely driven this tractor. Even put 85-140 in it.

85W140 is the correct oil. Any more than 1 seal is a waste. 930's & 1030's use only 1 of the same seal. If the shaft is messed up, a Speedie Sleeve will fix it. If you are determined to use 2 seals, they both go in the same way, spring side toward the oil. If they both don't go in spring side toward the oil, what good is the 2nd seal? If using 2 seals, put some heavy oil or grease between them to keep the seal wet.

 

[tomturkey]

If you decide to pull the gas tank to repair the bottom end leak at the soldered connection, be very very careful turning the nuts on the tank studs. If the treads have been buggered up, you could tear the mounting area and create a terrible leak. BTDT. gobble

 

[Tgrasher]

If it means anything to you, I used my 800B (the successor to your 400) to drill beans and the brakes worked hard and noisy, so I'll be doing a brake job on it before planting wheat. Can't remember when everything went like it should during a repair.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Taking a break from brakes for a few days so i decided to tackle a side mission on this tractor. Pulling the gas tank or pulling the brakes again will completely disable this tractor, and I've got another quick project that needs to sit in the shop where this guy is. So I want to still be able to move it for a few days.

Went after the top link attachment point. Someone before me snapped two of the three bolts off. Looks like they got one of them out. Must of had to drill for some of it because the first 1/2" of the threads are real sloppy. Now I've always been told if you use heat is to heat the outside of the broken bolt to expand the steel. That's usually worked for me in the past. Now I didn't want to use that kind of heat so I didn't mess with any seals nearby. I read on another forum by multiple people is to heat the bolt red hot to crush the rust. I had my doubts but tried anyways thinking im pretty sure im going to have to drill this one. I'd also will have to pull the seat bracket because the drill won't fit. Well I heated it up till it glowed 2 times in a few days. Hit it with lube and let it set. It actually came out!!
The old bolts only went in about 3/4" and after cleaning out the threads I can install bolts probably another 3/4" longer, so that third hole is still usuable.

Small victory, but hey a wins a win!!

 

[LPakiz]

Is there a possibility to replace the cap screws with studs? With a stud, you can use EVERY thread, right to the bottom of the hole. The studs become a static anchor.
In addition, when torquing down, the twisting and pulling pressure is on the stud, not on the weakened threads in the cast iron.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Well back at it again. Currently have the differential cover off again, tried cleaning it up some more. Might have to speedi sleeve it as john mentioned. After measuring some, looks like the first seal sits about 7/16" off the bearing. Can kindof see a faint line. And the second seal isn't doing anything in that rough spot by the spline.

What chewed on this? If only tractors could talk haha!!

 

[Kevinwterry]

Also decided to attack the tire. Valve stem of the tube was cracked. Just enough to let the air out, and just enough fluid to alwasy be wet. Biggest tire ive worked on so far. Last one was the rear of a farmall a. This one kicked my butt at first, then finally gave in. That orange bead breaker is a life saver. Made that part easy. Hard part was trying to get that bead to initially come over the rim. Never messed with ballast before. I saved it in a couple barrels, pulled almost 600 pounds out of it. Fluid is clearish, has a hazy to it in the barrel. Wondeer what it is? Will it last in unsealed barrels? Might try to use it in a smaller tractor if possible. Only this side has it, other side is just air. So anyways, tonight's project is to put the new tube in and tire back together.

 

[Jim.ME]

Looks like the rim needs some rust repair work around the tube stem hole, before going back together

 

[Kevinwterry]

Looks like the rim needs some rust repair work around the tube stem hole, before going back together

Ya it does look like it needs work in the picture, doesnt it? Its solid though.

 

[Kevinwterry]

Success!!

 

[Kevinwterry]

It fought me a bit, trying to get that last bit of tire over the rim was a pain. Im 5'-10" and 160 after i eat dinner. You need strength to get that last push. Kept telling myself "don't pinch the tube". The tire bead didn't want to fully seal. Had it up to 20 psi and was hitting the lugs with a sledge. Ended up lifting the tire up (which was really heavy because of all that air i put in it haha) and slamming it down.

 

[Jim.ME]

Ya it does look like it needs work inView attachment 120437 the picture, doesnt it? Its solid though.

This picture looks much better, your luck is better than mine.

You got it fixed, so problem solved. A couple thoughts. It looks like you only broke one bead down. I think that may have been one reason you fought it so much. I break both beads down. To me it is much easier to work the bead off the rim if the tire is not locked to the rim by the other bead. I also take the tire off the rim to clean things good. Some good paste type tire lube helps as well. Tru-Flate/Camel Tire mounting Compound, Murphy's Mounting Compound, and Ru-Glide are a few. Others will have their favorites. I keep a gallon bucket of the Tru-Flate around. It doesn't spoil and you can mix some with water if you want a liquid. To me brushing the paste on is better than the liquid when working beads over rims. Each to his own.

 

[Tgrasher]

A lot of us know your pain, wishing we had ate more Wheaties that morning. It's enjoying watching your progress while we sip our coffee and munch on a donut. lol

 

[Kevinwterry]

So the gas tank is out right now. Brakes are back together, cleaned up better so we shall see. I've got a speedi sleeve on the way in case my polish job doesn't work. I really can't tell if the tank is leaking before the sediment bowl or if the gas is slowly absorbing the gunk above it. The sediment bowl needed to be fixed no matter what as it leaked more and more every time I opened it . I cleaned up the area around the spot i though might be an issue and covered it with a layer of j,b weld.also looking at the 3 point hitch bracket, someone used a torch to cut it out. I had it in the vise about to add the more metal back to it and thought " WHY DID SOMEONE CUT THIS OUT" I think they might have tried to get the pressure relief valve out.

 

[want@1070]

No telling. (torch ) what people will do . Looking for easy way out, Disrespect for CASE Tractors. ?
Mr. S. ? May have that top link part. Thanks for pics.

 

[Tgrasher]

I've seen some real brain dead alterations that boggles the mind. That top link is not universal, meaning, it won't work (at least well) for all implements. The bottom top link connection which covers the PTO shaft and bolts on where the shield does works better. For the one your working on, a longer top link works better but one has to watch that the arms aren't lowered too much and damages the hydraulic linkage.
The sprayer on the tractor in the picture worked OK for tall corn but I had to switch it to another tractor as I needed the PTO for the pump and I couldn't lower it enough for beans without having issues with the linkage.